Help installing new pump

Dagobah

Well-known member
Jun 18, 2013
114
0
Dallas, TX
#1
I'm replacing my old Whisperflo with a new 2-speed Whisperflo. I've never done any PVC work on the pool before, so I could use some guidance.

1) The old pump is glued in on both connections. How should I install the new pump? This video shows him using a threaded end on the inlet, a fitting extender and a union to a high temp pipe for the outlet. Is this the way to go?

2) Can I tell what diameter piping I have without cutting off the motor first?

3) He uses something called "joint stick" on the threaded fittings into the motor. Is this recommended?

4) He uses "pool heavy" for the pvc cleaner/glue. Is this recommended?

5) Any other tips?



Here's my setup:
 

jblizzle

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
TFP Expert
May 19, 2010
41,193
4
Tucson, AZ
#2
1). Those grey pipes are screwed into the pump. They should not have needed to be glued. Going to be a little tricky dealing with that 3-way in front of the pump due to lack free pipe. You could cut the grey pipe flush with the valve and then use a larger coupling to the OUTSIDE of the valve and a reducer back down to the existing pipe size.

2) Looks like 2" to me.

3) Use a non-hardening pipe dope that is compatible with PVC/CPVS/ABS.

4) Any primer / solvent is fine if approved for PVC/CPVS/ABS.

5) Is there anything wrong with the pump (wet end)? If not, then you could just put the new 2-speed motor on the existing pump and not have to worry about the plumbing.
 

Dagobah

Well-known member
Jun 18, 2013
114
0
Dallas, TX
#3
I may just do the motor then. The pump actually just arrived from Amazon, and is all busted up. Was half hanging out of the box. Motor dented, footings are broken, capacitor cover is ripped off.

How can I determine the correct motor to buy?

220v, 2hp, 2-spd
 

mas985

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Expert
May 3, 2007
12,109
1
Pleasanton, CA
sites.google.com
#4
What is the service factor of the motor? Should be on the label with SF. Or the model number of the pump WF-## or WFE-##.

BTW, if you use 2.5" coupling reduces to 2" on the suction side valve (outside), you might be able to reuse the valve.
 

mas985

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Expert
May 3, 2007
12,109
1
Pleasanton, CA
sites.google.com
#6
That is an up rated 2 HP so your best bet is a Century B2983. It is a full rated 1.5 HP which is the same as a 2 HP up rated. But it is a high efficiency 2 speed motor which is more efficent than the motors that come with new pumps.
 

Dagobah

Well-known member
Jun 18, 2013
114
0
Dallas, TX
#7
Great, thanks. Am I better off buying online or can these be found locally for similar prices? I'm in Dallas, so lots of options here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Dagobah

Well-known member
Jun 18, 2013
114
0
Dallas, TX
#9
So if I buy just the motor now and later on the wet side of the pump fails, I'm assuming I can repair or buy a new one (wet side)? Just trying to think down the road. Best I can tell the unit is 13 years old.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 3, 2011
12,648
2
#12
If you cut the grey pipe in front of the pump flush with the front of the pump, you should be able to use a 2" MTA. The MTA would screw into the pump and then slip onto what's left of the grey pipe.
 

Dagobah

Well-known member
Jun 18, 2013
114
0
Dallas, TX
#13
If you cut the grey pipe in front of the pump flush with the front of the pump, you should be able to use a 2" MTA. The MTA would screw into the pump and then slip onto what's left of the grey pipe.
Is that something I could find at Home Depot?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 3, 2011
12,648
2
#16
Yes, they work well and are a good choice. I would recommend using one for the in and out ports.

You can find them cheaper than that example. Google noryl threaded union TPU-2.0.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 3, 2011
12,648
2
#18
You might have to move the pump back an inch or two. As long as you have room to do that, it should work. Another option would be to use a 2.5" to 2" bell reducer coupling over the valve and then a 2" schedule 80 cpvc nipple in the pump cut to fit.
 

Dagobah

Well-known member
Jun 18, 2013
114
0
Dallas, TX
#19
Just got back from 2 hardware stores and a pool store. None of them carry ABS or PVC/CPVS/ABS solvent/glue/pipe dope. The only thing I was able to find was the schedule 40 2" MTA.

They had some schedule 80 piping, but no one knew if it was the same as ABS. Pool store didn't sell any piping or supplies and the guy there didn't know what I should be using.

Should I just use schedule 40 out of the pump?
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 3, 2011
12,648
2
#20
Schedule 40 is fine. The only reason I don't prefer it is that if the pump runs dry and overheats the fittings, the fittings can shrink and cause the watertight seals to fail. That's why I prefer cpvc or noryl.

Any pvc glue will work. Just follow good practices, including cure time, and it will be good.

Note: I don't think that you have any abs that you need to glue. However, abs or cpvc technically requires glue that is specifically designed for that type of plastic. I have never had a problem with using pvc glue for pvc to cpvc or abs. However, you might want to get the correct glue if you feel it's necessary.