Help- First time using TFP method

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vivi4n

Member
Jul 28, 2020
8
San Antonio, tx
Our new pool is full and for the first two weeks we had a pool guy (sent by our builder) to keep the pool looking beautiful. Now, we have to keep up with the care and I decided to get the Taylor k-2006c test kit based on the information I found here. I performed my first tests today and found that I had such a difficult time getting the Free & Combined Chlorine test to work.

The instructions state that you only need 2 dippers to turn your sample pink. Even through videos I watched on youtube this seemed pretty straight forward. However, when I ran the test I found I used almost half of the small container to even get a pale pink tint! I am not exaggerating, it was close to 35 scoops. Am I doing something wrong or is there an issue with the solution?

So, to be sure of my results I took some water over to Leslie's for a reading and everything came out pretty similar. After I input my #s into the Pool Math app, the suggested amounts of baking soda and other chemicals are very different to what I was advised at Leslie's. I will be including my #s and appreciate any information on what would be the correct dosing.

FC: 0.04
pH: 8.4 Pool Math: 22 oz Leslies: 74 oz of Muriatic Acid (I am using 31.45%- 20 Baume)
TA: 58 Pool Math: 3lbs 10oz Leslies: 11 lbs 13 oz of baking soda
CH: 147 Pool Math: 58lbs Leslies: 25 lbs 12 oz of Calcium Chloride
CYA: 5 Pool Math: 286 oz Leslies: 5lbs 14 oz of Liquid Stabilizer

We have a new pool, a little bigger than 20,000 gallons, not including the spa.

I have no experience with this, so I could really use your input as to what I should work with. I have only added in the recommended Pool Math amount of Baking soda so far. Thank you!
 
Your sample isn't turning pink because there is no chlorine in the water.

To be blunt, your pool guy did a terrible job. The good news is you have an excellent test kit and you found TFP. I would highly recommend a speed stir as well. Please fill out your signature so we can help you better. How are you chlorinating?

For now, add enough liquid chlorine to get a FC of 3. You'll also need to add enough CYA to get 30. Add enough acid to get your pH down to 7.8-7.9.

How are you getting a TA of 58? If you're using the K-2006C, it will be an even multiple of 10. If it's 60, you're OK. Don't add any baking soda.

If the CH number is valid, you'll need to add some calcium chloride.

Stop testing your water at the pool store! You have a superb test kit that will give you accuracy much better than Leslies.
 
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What type of finish do you have? If it is plaster, there is typically a regimented startup process with certain parameters to ensure your plaster cures correctly the first 30 days.

If you do not have a startup plan, here is a good one:
www.nptpool.com

National Plasters Council Procedure | NPT Pool Finishes | NPTpool.com

If you’re a builder, remodeler, or home owner with a brand new plaster pool finish, it’s critical that you follow the steps in this guide to protect and prolong the life of your pool finish. Visit NPTpool.com
www.nptpool.com www.nptpool.com


I would get your pH in line ASAP. Target mid 7's, which will be more than the 22 oz you have mentioned above unless your startup calls for a different pH.

30 mins later, retest the pH and make sure you hit your target.

Then you can focus on the other stuff for the first 30 days:
1. Get your FC up. I would add liquid chlorine to get it to 5-6.
2. Add CYA to your pool to get it to 30. You can use the liquid, or use the "sock method" for adding the granules. Do not put the granules directly on your plaster or in the skimmer.
3. Calcium. Read your startup guide before you add anything. The one I attached says our CH should not exceed 200 for the first 30 days.
4. Brush daily

After the 30 day period, then you can adjust everything to the recommended levels.
 
They’ve all got u going- just have a quick reminder to fill out your signature

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
It really helps everyone help u
& also you can make your PoolMath log entries visible to the forum by clicking the gear icon ⚙️ In the app & scrolling to the bottom- then just toggle on sharing. 👍🏻
 
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I purchased the granular ChlorBrite from the pool store.

The numbers I posted were the results I was given from Leslie's. Seeing as how my pH and FC were above or below what the test kit read, I wanted to make sure the numbers were accurate. I tested my TA this morning and it was 80 because I added the baking soda yesterday.

I've looked over the startup manual that was suggested and I am going to go through the steps they recommend. I've already added in the muriatic acid and am going to retest the water in a while. Hopefully, that will bring down the pH and I can start on the chlorine.

How long should I wait between the acid and chlorine addition?

pjt said:
Your sample isn't turning pink because there is no chlorine in the water.

To be blunt, your pool guy did a terrible job. The good news is you have an excellent test kit and you found TFP. I would highly recommend a speed stir as well. Please fill out your signature so we can help you better. How are you chlorinating?

For now, add enough liquid chlorine to get a FC of 3. You'll also need to add enough CYA to get 30. Add enough acid to get your pH down to 7.8-7.9.

How are you getting a TA of 58? If you're using the K-2006C, it will be an even multiple of 10. If it's 60, you're OK. Don't add any baking soda.

If the CH number is valid, you'll need to add some calcium chloride.

Stop testing your water at the pool store! You have a superb test kit that will give you accuracy much better than Leslies.
Click to expand...
 
Thank you so much for this startup plan. I will be following it and hopefully it will help all this make sense to me. I started with 22oz of acid because that was what Pool Math suggested. I will be testing it in a bit and see if I need to add more.

I will have to look up the 'sock method' because I purchased granules.

JJ_Tex said:
What type of finish do you have? If it is plaster, there is typically a regimented startup process with certain parameters to ensure your plaster cures correctly the first 30 days.

If you do not have a startup plan, here is a good one:
www.nptpool.com

National Plasters Council Procedure | NPT Pool Finishes | NPTpool.com

If you’re a builder, remodeler, or home owner with a brand new plaster pool finish, it’s critical that you follow the steps in this guide to protect and prolong the life of your pool finish. Visit NPTpool.com
www.nptpool.com www.nptpool.com


I would get your pH in line ASAP. Target mid 7's, which will be more than the 22 oz you have mentioned above unless your startup calls for a different pH.

30 mins later, retest the pH and make sure you hit your target.

Then you can focus on the other stuff for the first 30 days:
1. Get your FC up. I would add liquid chlorine to get it to 5-6.
2. Add CYA to your pool to get it to 30. You can use the liquid, or use the "sock method" for adding the granules. Do not put the granules directly on your plaster or in the skimmer.
3. Calcium. Read your startup guide before you add anything. The one I attached says our CH should not exceed 200 for the first 30 days.
4. Brush daily

After the 30 day period, then you can adjust everything to the recommended levels.
Click to expand...
 
vivi4n said:
I will have to look up the 'sock method' because I purchased granules.
Click to expand...

Here is the "sock method" in a nutshell:
Place the correct amount granules in a sock. Then you want to suspend the sock in the water, most people tie it to their pole and make sure the sock is a few feet away from the side. It will take 2 or so days to fully dissolve, and you can make it go quicker by squeezing the sock and placing it in front of a return.

The method is a bit goofy, but here is the logic: CYA granules are very acidic and can harm equipment and your plaster. You do not want to put them in your skimmer since that acidic water will be sucked into your equipment and could harm your equipment especially your heater and filter. You also dont want to just throw it in the deep end, since it will sink to the bottom and sit on your plaster for a long time while it dissolves.
So that leads us to what we suggest in the sock method. That way the CYA can dissolve in the water without touching your plaster and will be diluted by the time it reaches your equipment.
 
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After speaking to my pool builder, he suggested that I switch to liquid chlorine. There was such a huge difference in price!

Anyway, using the recommendations from pool math, I added in 64oz of liquid chlorine yesterday. I tested the water today and my Taylor test kit is still not reading any chlorine with the two scoops of reagent. I am not sure how much more chlorine to add because I don't have a chlorine reading.. can anyone give me some advice?
 
The 64 ounces of chlorine should have raised your FC by 2.5. If you put it in yesterday and didnt test until today, it is very possible that it was all used up especially since you do not have any CYA. I would suggest adding more today (don't let it sit at zero) and then test again 30 mins later. If you still have zero you either have a testing or chlorine problem. My guess is that is was just used up, especially if it was sunny there yesterday and today.
 

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What % liquid chlorine are you using?

64 oz of 10% liquid chlorine should raise a 20,000 gallon pool by 2.5 ppm

How long after you add the LC are you testing the water?

Take 25 ml of water, add a few drops of liquid chlorine to it, and put in some powder and see that it turns red. That way you see that you have good reagent and what should happen.
 
You had no chlorine, for who knows how long, before you added yesterday. Zero chlorine means you definitely have algae, bacteria, viruses, and other organic matter, even if you can't see it. Yesterday you added some chlorine. That chlorine went to work, oxidizing and sanitizing, until all the chlorine was consumed. Back to zero chlorine by the time you tested today.

Go ahead and add a full gallon, which should give 5 ppm. At this point, you have nasties, and probably need a SLAM, but that's not something you want to do with new plaster, so you are going to have to just hold it about 5 (testing at least twice a day) for now. Either that will clear up a little something brewing, or keep it at bay until you can safely SLAM.
 
CrystalRiver said:
Go ahead and add a full gallon, which should give 5 ppm.
Click to expand...

You want to keep a newly plastered pool at 3ppm or less for the first 30 days. Higher levels of chlorine can bleach out the color in the new plaster.
 
I went ahead and added an additional 64oz of liquid chlorine (12.5%) and retested 30 minutes later. Here are my results:
FC: 4
pH: 8 (went back up since yesterday)
TA: 80
CH: 170
CYA: 0

It looks like the chlorine is up, but my pH went back up from yesterday. Should I focus on getting the CYA up first or the pH?

Also, TFP states that 15 minutes between chemical additions is okay- does this apply to everything? I don't want to add in something that will cause a chemical reaction. I would like to add in some baking soda, but also need to add in the liquid stabilizer.

Thank you so much everyone! You are seriously helping me get through this hump. I feared I would have to give up and call a pool guy. 😖
 
Why do you want to add baking soda? Your TA level is fine.

You mentioned above that you have granular stabiliser. This will lower your pH a bit, so it can heaps your with two things at once. Liquid stabiliser will not affect pH.

You may still need acid as well to bring the pH down.
 
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