Help! Filter lid with new pump

[Kelly C]

New pool owner here. I recently replaced my old pump, which had a leak in the housing. All three pieces were leaking: pump, filter, and heater. The technician said it looked like it had been due to freezing, which did happen last year, but I had run it May -December without issues. The new pump is 1.5 hp, replacing a 1 hp pump. The pool store did help me with the power for the size of my pool, so that should be correct, however we never discussed the filter. Now that I am researching the filter, the website says it should not exceed 40 psi. I have no idea how many psi this pump is. Also please note that where the lid blew off, I am pretty sure there was already a crack. The threads are intact, and the lid created a semi circle where there was a smaller hairline crack before. I am wondering if I can just find the lid and screw a new one on? Seems that would be the cheapest. However I have to figure out this psi thing. The pump is a Harris 72786 pro force max inground pool pump with 56Y frame, 115/230 V, 1.5 hp. The filter I took a picture of, since that is existing and I don't even know the brand name. Any help is appreciated! Thanks so much.

 

[Texas Splash]

Merry Christmas Kelly and welcome to TFP! It might help to see a shot of the entire equipment pad. I'm not seeing a lot of selections online for the Advantage brand. I did find one site HERE, but not sure if that is the correct size. The Advantage website has some parts HERE. If the only thing damaged is the filter head, you might get by with a lid replacement. Or if you suspect more damage, it might be cost efficient to replace the entire filter.

As for the filter pressure, we would start with a full set of water test results as excessive organics can make filter pressure rise quickly. We can help you troubleshoot more from there.

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[Kelly C]

Thanks for your reply, and Merry Christmas to you too!! Well from the label, it says cf150, so I am about to call and see if I can replace that lid. ( I did see on some other posts that they said you cannot replace the lid, and I was wondering why. But perhaps those lids blew off and ruined the threads.) You can see the photo where it is screwed on, I lifted the top part where it has broken, and it has not affected the threads below it. I included photos of all three of the mechanics, pump, then the cylinder filter, then the heater. The filter is leaking just a bit from the bottom but I have a bead of silicone caulk around it that helps a little. I don't know if that would cause a pressure problem??

 

[Texas Splash]

Besides the lid issue, and since you mentioned the leak near the bottom, be careful and watch that closely. Filter vessel failures can be quite severe and there is a potential for injury to those in the area. If you suspect the vessel itself is compromised, you might just bite the bullet and replace the entire unit to be safe. Your call though. Enjoy this gorgeous SA day.

 

[Kelly C]

Well, I sent some photos to the manufacturer and salesperson thought it would be OK to just replace the lid. It is actually the lock ring, which screws around the lid. So I have a replacement coming. Thanks for the heads-up about the vessel leaking possibly--hard to know I guess, but since the water is seeping from the bottom it's probaby OK (?) he said (?). It's a much easier fix to just screw on the new lock ring, so I hope that does it. When I mentioned the new pump he said that probably wasn't the issue, but said it was more likely pressure from a dirty filter. Apparently that can cause pressure, and it's supposed to be cleaned every week or 2 which (guilty!) I have not done. I did pull it out and send another photo (to feel better about my cleaning skills) and it was only slightly green. So that may or may not have been the problem. I hope this fix works. Thanks very much, Texas Splash, for your insight! It is really helpful and reassuring to be able to ask a question here.

 

[Texas Splash]

but said it was more likely pressure from a dirty filter. Apparently that can cause pressure,

That is true. Make note that filters can get dirty in a normal fashion from dust and debris. We generally recommend cleaning the filter when the pressure increases by about 25% from the starting (clean) pressure. But excessive organic material can lead to algae. When you see green or a quick spike in filter pressure, you probably have algae which would require the SLAM Process to kill/remove the algae properly. Don't fall for pool store gimmicks or products off the shelf, they are a waste of money. Liquid chlorine maintained at the proper SLAM level (based on your current CYA) is the key. With chilly water, now is the best time to do a SLAM Process. Also see our FC/CYA Chart for FC-to-CYA balancing.

Also note you cannot do a SLAM properly unless you have either a TF-100 (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006S test kit. I recommend the TF-100, but either will work. Your choice, but you should have one of those kits year-round. Easy and reliable.

 

[Newdude]

+1
The k-2006C is $177 on Amazon today (likely being resold at a higher price and also likely to be along in its 2 year lifespan sitting on multiple shelves at each stage). I saw it as low as $123 from other sellers that weren’t household names.

The Tf-100 is $77 at tftestkits.net and a no brainer today.

Whatever you choose, the Taylor smart stir ($35-ish) is hands down the best $35 you can spend on your pool. Not only does it do most of the work for you, but it’s far more consistent for good results.

 

[1poolman1]

Please note that any full-rated inground pool pump can easily exceed 40psi if there is a "dead head" condition, like a valve after the filter that is closed or the cartridge gets very dirty. Your pool store did NOT help you if they had you install a 1.5hp pump.