HELP!!!!! ET Abducted my Pool Builder!!!!!

Oct 8, 2021
10
Marvin, NC
Hi All, So here is my story....
I hired a PB in January and it took him till mid May to start digging.
Last I saw him was the end of July and all I have to show for it is steel walls and concrete.
I'm guessing he was abducted by aliens!!!!!! I hope they take me next so I can get my hands on the guy!!
I've re filed the permits under my name so now I'm the GC, plumber, electrician, and donkey for the job.
Anyway, here's about my pool.... or at least what I want.
20x40 free form vinyl lined with liner over the steps
4' shallow with 6' deep end.
21000 gallons with about 750 sq ft surface

My Hayward equipment list is as follows..and only because my last pool used Hayward....
vs950 pump
360sx side mount multi valve sand filter
chlorinator for tablets
400K nat gas heater

I will have 2 skimmers and a main drain set, along with 5 returns and a waterfall.
All the equipment sits basically level with the water line level. The water fall is to be
pumped up 48" above the water line level.

I am running all home runs and figure I will need about 450/500 ft of 2" pvc sh 40 solid pipe.
Id like to use 2 1/2" by the equipment because the equipment can handle it and I was thinking
it would make the flows merge instead of yielding.

Here is where I need help...
I'll need 40 90s and 30 45s. So to help reduce flow restriction Id like to use sweep 90s
but the sweep 90s at lowes are listed as sh40 but under drainage......
With the parameters i mentioned do I need the sweep 90s????
Are the 90 sweeps from lowes ok to use?

Second problem....
The PB made the steps wrong and now the liner company said the top step will be above the water level
which will dry rot the vinyl prematurely. Also because there is no water on the step the vinyl might pull away from the wall.
I thought to put 3 or 4 small return fittings into the last riser but as you can see in the picture there is only 4" of space and
a standard return fitting is way to close to the step and j channel. I'm looking for a smaller return that would use a total of 2 1/2"or 2 3/4 max.
If I cant find a return fitting to work the only other option I can think of is to have a piece of sandstone cut and shaped like the step and have all
the edges bullnosed and set it on a bed of silicone on the top step...... And they wonder why I drink!!!!! LOL

Any suggestions will be welcomed
Thanks
 

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Bill1974

Well-known member
Jun 18, 2014
107
Hauppauge, NY
Pool Size
32000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
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Bperry

Gold Supporter
Aug 20, 2020
1,017
Knoxville, TN
Pool Size
27000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60
No way to chip out that top step so there’s enough room for water? I’d think with a liner it may not be as bad as it sounds.
 

klanel

Well-known member
Jul 11, 2021
212
Athens, GA
So to help reduce flow restriction
Something you might consider instead of buying as many 45s and 90s, heat and bend the PVC. The guys that did my plumbing had a resistance heater to put the pipe into but I have done it on both electrical and water pvc using a propane torpedo heater. Just put the PVC pipe in front of it and rotate until it becomes pliable. For smaller pieces of PVC less than an inch, a heat gun will work. It can be time consuming but if you take your time, you can get perfect bends and reduce the amount of fittings (and failure points) required for the job. I wear leather gloves and as I bend, I press on the pipe to maintain a nice round shape.
 

HermanTX

Gold Supporter
May 20, 2020
2,657
Katy TX
Pool Size
14600
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I'll need 40 90s and 30 45s. So to help reduce flow restriction Id like to use sweep 90s
but the sweep 90s at lowes are listed as sh40 but under drainage......
With the parameters i mentioned do I need the sweep 90s????
Are the 90 sweeps from lowes ok to use?
Do not use any fitting marked for DWV - drain, waste & ventilation. These have a shorter shoulder on the female end and thus does not provide a proper fit to hold pressure.

You can purchase proper PVC long sweep fittings but you may need to order. I always look for the Lasco name brand.
 
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cowboycasey

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LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 3, 2013
8,648
Southern OK
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool SJ-40
I would demo that top step and repour it again so that it will have about 4 inches of water on it.. If you demo it down to the next step you could have the second step larger and pour a smaller first step. :)
 
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cowboycasey

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Jul 3, 2013
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Southern OK
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Just thought of this.. You could cut it out just like they do with wood, just cut lines down 4 inches all along the top.. then use a sledge hammer to break them along the lines.. it will not be easy but it can be done.. not sure how close the lines would need to be, probably 2 inches so lots of cutting with a concrete saw...

Like this :)


use this to make it flat again...
 

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duckcmmndr

Bronze Supporter
May 7, 2014
346
Arkansas
Pool Size
29980
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hard to tell from the pictures...if you go halfway up the skimmer opening (normal water level) where will that hit on your top step?

I do like your idea about the sandstone cut and shaped...that might work and might look really good too.

My liner over steps was from a kit and each step had a track that a bead on the back of the liner snapped into. This holds it in place, even so...the water on my sundeck is at least 3-4" deep. If in fact your top step is high and dry...you might be able to glue it down and to the wall above the step. I wouldn't think that the sun would wear fade/harm the step any faster than it does the part of the liner that is above the waterline on every pool out there.
 
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jimmythegreek

TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 10, 2017
3,879
Morris Cnty NJ
A step out of water will break down much faster than the exposed pool wall top. This builder has little experience with liner over stairs to put the top step equal or higher than the skimmer opening.

I would worry less about the plumbing fittings. With a free form easiest way is straight runs in trenches. Easier to dig than glue a zillion fittings. Dont need 2" for the returns. 1.5 is plenty for home runs. Leave suction all 2" and manifold noth sides using valves. Dpending on your waterfall flow needs I would use 2" there you may need dual lines if your gonna be high flow
 
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cowboycasey

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Jul 3, 2013
8,648
Southern OK
Pool Size
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Surface
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Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool SJ-40
Exactly, I thought you were trying to get ideas on how to fix this.. No way to fix it if your not going to change anything...
 

phonedave

Well-known member
May 30, 2012
1,018
Montville NJ
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
Am I missing something here?

The liner is ordered and the pool needs to be within 1/4" tolerance.

The top step is above the waterline.

So that means the distance from the top step to the line channel is too short.

So how is the liner going to fit at all? The total rise of all the stairs is incorrect, so somewhere on the stairs there is not going to be enough liner to cover, and in other places it is going to be bunchy,

Or, are you saying the stairs were built wrong, then the liner company measured for the liner, built it to a dimension that would leave the top step exposed, and THEN told you the step was too high.

If you go the sandstone route, I assume you plan to set it on top of the liner (given that the liner is already on order and it needs to be attached to the pool wall anyway. Sticking a big rock on top is going to make any future liner change . . . interesting, but not impossible.

Instead of sandstone you could also use granite. You could likely get a left over slab from a countertop shop at a decent price, and they could cut it to shape and finish the edge as well. That would be thinner than sandstone too. You could also have them cut it into square "tiles" so it is easier to handle and when it comes time to change the liner (and to install). It was also be flat on the bottom to begin with, as opposed to sandstone. Maybe something between it and the liner as an insurance policy. I'm thinking something like that honeycomb rubber drawer liner stuff. Keeps the stone off the liner, but still low profile. My only concern it is becoming an algae breeding habitat.

I'm not sure how slip resistant a leathered finish is (and I am not going to go stand on my countertops) but I'm sure there is something that is slip resistant.
 

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