Hello from Nebraska

Jableo

Member
May 24, 2021
5
Denton, Nebraska
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello everyone. It looks like I found a great site for pool care and I look forward to participating. I am new to backyard pools but I previously had goldfish/koi ponds for over 25 years. We move to this 20 year old house in southeast Nebraska last August. The house had sat empty for about 3 years before we moved in. But the previous owner kept the pool operating for her grandchildren. We had a pool cleaning company close it up for the winter and he promised to reopen it in the spring and show us how to care for it. This spring he would not answer his phone and had no voicemail. We could not find anyone else at all to come out to open it up and show us the ropes. It seems the pool industry is booming in this part of the country and everyone is busy and booked solid. I did a crash course in pool care and dove into it. First I found a number of cracked pvc pipes that most likely froze over the winter and I replaced those myself. The next problem was a bad circuit breaker. My electrician replaced that as well as the breaker to the pool light. He told me the breaker was fixed but the pump was bad. It was a Hayward SP2605X7 0.75 HP single-speed pump. My research told me to get a variable speed pump. The local pool company was not much help and tried to sell me another single speed pump. I ended up with a Viron 1.5 hp variable speed pump. After many manual vacuums and brushing and skimming, I got all the leaves etc out. I cleaned out the DE filter got the circulation going although the heater is bad and needs replacing at some point.
The water is now clear and the ph is 7.2 but the total alkalinity is 250. I have added probably 2 gallons of muriatic acid over the last month but it remains high. I tested the well water I use to fill it and I found that the TA of the incoming water is 250. I am not sure what I am going to do about that. Help is appreciated.
My other problem is that the inlets have very low water flow about a day or so after backwashing and adding DE powder. After a backwash the pressure is about 14 but it climbs to 25 just one or two days later. The inlet flow seems good right after backwash but 2 days later I can't feel anything coming out with my hand. I have backwashed about 4 times already in about 2 weeks. With the numerous vacuum sessions and backwashing I have taken out quite a bit of water and added new water with high TA. I got a robot vacuum so I could avoid removing so much water. I wish the robot could learn the pool like the iRobot vacuum learns the inside of the house. The pool robot just randomly roams around and spends too much time on the sides in my opinion. Sorry for the long post. I am appreciative for any help I can get from you.
current testing numbers: FC 0.22, TC 0.22. ph 7.2, TA 250, Calcium hardness 252, cyanuric acid 4, copper 0,6, iron 0, nitrates 0, solids 0, phosphates 82, saturation index 0.4. Note the pool company told me there was a chlorine shortage and they highly recommended me using Pristine Blue startup kit. The initial shock was done using Pristine Extra2 ( sodium dichloro-s-triaxinetrione, dihydrate 99%)
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: So, we have a few very important items to discuss to get you back on track:
- First, stay out of the pool store. Their testing is not accurate, advice off the mark, and products way over-priced. Going there will hurt you more than anything.
- #1 priority is to get a proper test kit; either a TF-100 (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C. Either one is fine, but you MUST have one of those.
- You have 3 issues right now; an elevated TA (minor), algae (almost guaranteed), and metals in the water (bad). It's odd that you seem to have an elevated copped level and no iron since wells usually have iron. Copper comes from pool store products (always bad) and/or a heater that is going bad (corroded core). Some old homes also have iron/copper plumbing which can be a challenge.

So here's what I suspect needs to happen once you obtain one of those test kits (I highly recommend the TF-100 w/ speed/smart stir):
1. Determine if you want to exchange a lot of water for a fresh fill replacement with no metals. Remember that once iron/copper get in the pool, they don't disappear unless you change water. When those levels get too high, they react with the chlorine causing staining and water color changes. It's your call, but if you elect to do that, it should be step 1.
2. Whether you change water or not, you will need to evaluate the water for algae and probably perform a SLAM Process. That's how we kill/remove algae which is why your filter is clogging-up so quickly after backwash. By performing a SLAM Process you eliminate algae and your circulation system works much better.
3. TA is last on the list. The best way to lower TA (with a proper test kit) is by allowing the pH to rise to 8.0 then use enough muriatic acid to lower the pH to 7.0. Then aerate the water which naturally increases the pH but leaves the TA a little lower each time you do it.

As you can see, the test kit is #1. You have a decision or two to make, but review all of the info and links provided and let us know if you have any other questions. Lots of folks here to help.

 
Texas Splash, thanks for the reply. I just ordered the TF-100 test kit. We will empty the pool and start over. We figured we should have done that a month ago but didn't know. That will give us a chance to clean the vinyl liner that is stained at the bottom, probably from leaves. Can you recommend what we should use to clean it. This is now a good time to replace the old Rheem heater that doesn't work. Any recommendations of a heater. The current one uses propane.
 
Reading some of the past posts on TFP I see that it is not a good idea to completely drain a vinyl pool. I have already started draining water. How much water do I take out so I don't stretch or rip the vinyl. I am not sure how old it is. I would guess over 10 years.
 
Howdy, neighbor!
I think the advice is to leave at least 1' of water in the shallow end, someone correct me if I'm wrong.