Hello from Houston

Oct 23, 2013
13
Houston, TX
#1
New poster to the forum. Thanks to a neighbor I joined this, and have finally decided to fire my $150/mo pool man and do it myself.

I've read through the ABCs, ordered a K-2006c test kit, and have learned how to post chemical readings in a consistent fashion when asking a question. I've also completed my signature with pertinent information about my pool.

I do have a few questions I've searched for answers for and haven't found consistent answers on:

1) What is the best location for me to add the liquid bleach (when necessary)?

2) What is the best brand/value of chlorine pucks for my chlorinator hopper?

3) Is "algicide" a pool store hype? It seems from here it's totally unnecessary; use liquid bleach to raise FC as necessary per the calculations.

4) Is a pool vacuum something I need to purchase?

5) I've read there are chemicals that can create barriers on the surface of water to reduce evaporation and FC consumption, particularly in the summer months. Are these useful or baseless hype?


Thanks a ton and I look forward to learning more from your collective knowledge. Hopefully in the future I can contribute back.


 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
#2
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: Let me get right to your questions:
1 - At the return jet(s); slowly with pump running well
2 - Trick question? :) We use pucks so infrequently here at TFP because of their side effects I couldn't give a specific brand. Any pool store brand would be fine, but be warned - they add CYA quickly to your water. Stick with regular HEB Bravo or Wal-Mart Great Value and you'll do fine.
3 - Yep. No need for it, and many of those add copper which is a big no-no for your water. Stick to the Chlorine/CYA Chart (link below)
4 - Yes, even if it's a manual one like I use. You need to pull the bugs & grit off the bottom. Sweeping will only do so much. Your Polaris may do okay, and if it does then that's good. But that's your call there. I don't use a Polaris so I can't compare. :)
5 - Anything other than stabilizer (CYA) which provided sunscreen protection for your FC is probably hype.

Below in my sig are your most vital links and references. Stick to those and that water will be crystal 365 days a year. Welcome!
 

pooldv

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Aug 10, 2012
24,993
DFW, TX
#3
Welcome to TFP!

1. In front of a return while the pump is running. More here on adding chems, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

2. Anything not labeled "blue" or extra special formulation. Those often contain copper which can build up over time and stain the pool, hair, dogs, etc.

3. We only recommend algaecide in rare instances like closing the pool or doing an ascorbic acid treatment to remove iron stains. Always a polyquat 60 and never algaecide that contains copper.

4. I don't own one. My robot and my pool brush brushing to the bottom drain has always been enough.

5. There are liquid solar covers that put a one molecule thick layer of alcohol on the pool. It can slow evaporation and heat loss if there is no wind. But, the wind will blow it all to one side of the pool rendering it fairly useless.
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
10,852
Bedford, TX
#4
T,

Welcome to TFP... A Great resource for all pool owners that owe their neighbor a case of beer... :snorkle:

Everyone has got you covered as far as answers go..

I just wanted to add that is a pretty good looking pool you've got!!!

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
OP
OP
texastechka
Oct 23, 2013
13
Houston, TX
#5
2 - Trick question? :) We use pucks so infrequently here at TFP because of their side effects I couldn't give a specific brand. Any pool store brand would be fine, but be warned - they add CYA quickly to your water. Stick with regular HEB Bravo or Wal-Mart Great Value and you'll do fine.
!
Thanks for your answers above. This may be a stupid question, but from everything I've been reading it seems like the only chlorine folks are adding under the TFP system is ordinary 8.25% liquid bleach. Is that accurate? It seems like using chlorine pucks in the auto-chlorinator will increase CYA levels reducing FC effectiveness and absent heavy rains which displace water, by end of summer I'm going to be adding tons of chlorine but still fighting algae?

So, presuming that my assessment is accurate; that all people are using is liquid chlorine bleach, (and not the chlorinator with chlorine tablets) how do people automate the use of said bleach when they can't test and treat their pool every few days or even for 7-10 days (say, vacation)?

Thanks!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
#7
how do people automate the use of said bleach when they can't test and treat their pool every few days or even for 7-10 days (say, vacation)?
You got it! Regular old bleach from the grocery store. And as stated in that link pooldv provided, those who are away from home a lot look at installing an SWG or liquid dispensing system. A little up-front cost, but for many well worth it who simply aren't home as much or don't link to carry a gallon of bleach each day. If you have anymore questions, please ask. That's what everyone here is all about.
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
10,852
Bedford, TX
#8
T,

We recommend four ways to chlorinate a pool..

1. Using chlorinated 3" pucks... We do not recommend them except when CYA is very low and for short periods of time, like while on vacations..

2. Manually add Liquid Chlorine or plain Bleach on a regular basis. Usually daily or every other day.

3. Use a Stenner pump to automatically add Liquid Chlorine or bleach.

4. Use a Saltwater Chlorine Generator (SWCG) to convert the salt in your pool into chlorine.

Thanks,

Jim R.