Hayward Swim Pure Plus system with T-cell-9-SWP troubleshooting

[newjudi]

It came with the house, we think it was installed in 2013.
NO Flow has always been an issue we reset it and then it works for a while. The unit is currently not making chlorine at all. yet our salt is at 3400ppm.
The cell is clean, but it clearly could be as old as 2013.

So, do we just get a new cell and hope that it clears up the problem?
Or, is it time for a new unit and a new cell? If we go for a completely new unit what do you recommend?
Thanks,
Judi

 

[Jimrahbe]

Judi,

While the cell may be dead, it certainly can't work if you have a no flow indicator...

What is your filter pressure, what does the flow back to the pool feel like, and when was the last time your filter was cleaned?

What color is your water and do you have algae now??

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[newjudi]

Hi Jim! Thanks for the quick response.
The flow into the pool is very strong out of all the jets.
The gauge reads less than 10 PSI
We cleaned the filter on Friday.
So far the water is a little cloudy, we just added two bottles of liquid chlorine today to hopefully keep it from going green.

 

[JamesW]

What are the diagnostic readings?

What are the first seven characters of the cell serial number?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Let's see if we can get @JamesW to chime in as he knows all about T-cells...

He is going to ask you to run the standard diagnostics, so if you know how to do that, do it now..

Edit... he can also read minds... and apparently type much faster than I can...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[newjudi]

Okay here goes diagnostics are listed and the serial number is 3E13346201254

• 1500
• 88
• 31.9
• 0.00
• 29P
• -0
• AL-2
• r 1.59
• t-9

 

[JamesW]

The cell was made on the 346th day of 2013.

Move the switch to off and then back to auto and recheck the instant salinity right away.

There should be a brief delay and then a reading that will take a few seconds to stabilize.

 

[newjudi]

The check cell light flashes and then goes out. the reading that changed was 31.9 to now 31.3
Otherwise, everything is the same.
Thanks

 

[JamesW]

Probably a bad cell.

Take it to a local authorized Hayward service center to have it tested.

I recommend that you get a T-15 Hayward.

 

[wireform]

Newjudi,
I sent you a PM. Check you messages

 

[newjudi]

Thanks, Everyone!

Hi JamesW,

Yesterday you recommended I purchase a new T-15 cell to replace my dead T-9 cell. I was wondering if you would recommend I consider changing the whole Swim Pure system given the age and the price of just a new cell which is about $600.00? Also, I see that the system must have the correct software upgrade, how do I determine what software version I have?

 

[JamesW]

You have software revision 1.59 as shown in the diagnostic readings.

I don't see any reason to replace the box. It should work for years.

I would go with a new Hayward T-15, which you should be able to get for about $525.00.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Couldn’t agree more with James. You already have the newest sw r1.59 which is more reliable.
Upgrading the older pcb to r1.59 is meaningless without retrofitting a K4 Relay as shown below.
In this example, the K4 relay was mounted sideways in place of the non-existent K3 on the pcb.


If you are in the market for a replacement glx-pcb-rite mainboard, I would recommend the r1.59 for reliability. The newest r1.59 pcb is recognized by a K4 relay as shown below. More here, kudos to member ajw22 for creating the wiki.

 

[newjudi]

Thanks to everyone! The cell is here and I am going to install it today. I have dodged the Algae monster.

 

[ajw22]

In this example, the K4 relay was mounted sideways in place of the non-existent K3 on the pcb.
View attachment 118861

Who modified the board with the added K4 relay in the K3 relay location? Is that from Hayward or aftermarket?

 

[JamesW]

Be sure to change the cell type to T-15 in settings.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Who modified the board with the added K4 relay in the K3 relay location? Is that from Hayward or aftermarket?

I did. I got tired of replacing the thermistor to my 6 year old board. I don’t think Hayward or its authorized service center would do such a thing.

I used the $12 PICkit3 programmer to copy the r1.59 firmware from my spare pcb and flashed it over to the r1.55 pcb. The relay is made by Omron type G2RL-1A-E-24VDC, Digi-key Z2845-ND or $1.30 each from eBay bulk of 10pcs. I have a copy of sw r1.59 to share if anyone is interested.

 

[ajw22]

I did. I got tired of replacing the thermistor to my 6 year old board. I don’t think Hayward or its authorized service center would do such a thing.

I used the $12 PICkit3 programmer to copy the r1.59 firmware from my spare pcb and flashed it over to the r1.55 pcb. The relay is made by Omron type G2RL-1A-E-24VDC, Digi-key Z2845-ND or $1.30 each from eBay bulk of 10pcs. I have a copy of sw r1.59 to share if anyone is interested.

I will put that on the Wiki if you don't mind.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

@OP, sorry not trying to hijack…

I will put that on the Wiki if you don't mind.

No, not at all. Feel free to take ownership and mod any useful images I posted in here.
The coil side of the added K4 relay is soldered onto J3 pads and is secured in place via pin headers.


Please note; The K4 Relay mod is limited to the glx-pcb-rite with sw ver 1.5x except 1.59. I cannot vouch for older pcb’s with r1.4x or earlier with different micro-controller chip (see the below pics).

 

[JamesW]

Did the new cell work?