Hayward Super Pump not starting

ddiiggss

Member
May 28, 2016
9
NJ
Hi All,

So my pump died a few days ago. No humming or anything, just wouldn't start at all. Pump is just over a year old, and the outlet it's wired into is about the same age. The outlet is getting power, and I tested the wire to the pump and it's powered as well.

I took the pump to a local pool store, they tested it and replaced the capacitor (what I thought was wrong with it from the start). When they replaced the capacitor, it started up with no issue. I took it home, rewired it but it still won't start. I triple checked all my connections and that the selector switch was set to 115 as it should be, but still nothing. So I started troubleshooting with my voltimeter and I found that when the selector switch is set to 115, I can't detect any current to the terminal. When I connect it to 230 just for testing purposes, it doesn't detect any current to the terminal. When I remove the switch entirely, it detects current to the terminal, although the pump still won't start.

I've exhausted the extent of my limited electrical knowledge - anyone have any thoughts on what it could be and how to fix?
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
16,323
Do you have a picture of the back wiring and the power source?

Are you measuring voltage line to line?

Can you describe how you're using the multimeter?
 

ddiiggss

Member
May 28, 2016
9
NJ
Pic attached.

I have a small non-contact voltimeter. I checked that it's working by putting it in the socket that the pump is hardwired into. I touched it to the hot wire before I connected anything and it detected current. I then connected all three leads - when I turn on the breaker, I'm able to touch the tip to the hot lead connector and detect current, but only when the volt selector switch is detached. When I attach it, I can't detect anything.
 

Attachments

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
16,323
Do you have a picture of the breaker that goes to the pump?

Can you get a regular multimeter to check the actual voltage line to line?

The one red wire has black tape. Is that a splice?

The wires are black and red, which usually means 240 volts. 120 volts is usually supplied by a black and a white wire.
 

ddiiggss

Member
May 28, 2016
9
NJ
Sorry - wrong pic (I took this one earlier when I thought I was going crazy and switched the red and black leads to try to fix the issue). Currently it's set up like pic attached here - this matches how it was wired previously before the trouble started.
 

Attachments

ddiiggss

Member
May 28, 2016
9
NJ
Not sure if it's a splice - the wiring was done by an electrician when we replaced the outlet last year. Everything is the same as he wired it except I replaced the spade terminal on the black wire earlier today when I was reconnecting.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
16,323
Which breaker goes to the pump?

Do both breakers labeled Pump go to the pump?

Have you clicked both off and back on?

Do you have a picture of the switch that turns the pump on and off?

Do any of the wires have nicks or cuts where you can see copper?

You can get a regular multimeter at any hardware store. Do you feel comfortable testing voltage?
 

ddiiggss

Member
May 28, 2016
9
NJ
The bottom breaker goes to the pump, it’s been switched on and off repeatedly. It never tripped.

Pic of the switch outside attached. I’ve reset the GFCI a bunch of times. I plugged a wet vac into the both outlets to confirm it’s working. I’m comfortable testing voltage, I just don’t have the tools to do so at the moment. I have a hard time thinking it’s the wiring from the house to the outlet as it‘s so new.EC00C48A-6CE2-4806-9BDD-4D1FF68F09B7.jpeg
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
16,323
The next step is to test the actual voltage.

You have to decide if you're comfortable doing that or if you want to contact an electrician.
 

ddiiggss

Member
May 28, 2016
9
NJ
Appreciate the help, I'll update once I can check it.

As an aside, is there a way to convert a hard wired connection to a plug-in connection?
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
16,323
Something doesn't add up. The wires are black and red, which usually means 240 volts.

Why would they run 120 if 240 is available?

I suspect that the pump is powered by 240, not 120, but the breakers don't look right and the pump breaker should be gfci.

I suspect that maybe both breakers labeled Pool go to the pump?

The pump is probably on a different circuit than the outlet.

If you turn off the breaker that says "General Outlets" does that shut off power to the outlet?

What electrician wired this?

Are they licensed and qualified?

You should have a different electrician check it out because it just doesn't look right.
 
Last edited:

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
16,323
I suspect that both breakers labeled "Pool" probably go to the pump.

There is some sort of connector on the black wire where it goes into the electrical fitting that's threaded into the pump. I suspect that the connector is probably the break in the wire that's causing the problem.

You need to:
1) Verify which breaker(s) go to the pump.
2) Verify voltage going to the pump.
3) Change breaker to gfci. Replace both single breakers with a double pole gfci breaker if both go to the pump.
4) Check the wiring and make sure that there are no breaks.
5) Make sure that the voltage selector is set correctly.

You probably should get a good electrician to check it out. Not the original electrician.