Hayward Heater Problems no Error Codes

Kevink

Bronze Supporter
Jun 30, 2011
39
Austin, TX
I recently replaced the combustion blower on my Hayward H250. The heater turns on fine, ignites with no problem, but then the heater shuts down after about 5 minutes. During the time its on, and after it warms up a bit, the heater makes a faint humming noise. Then it shuts down with no error codes just a service light. When I try to restart it, the blower does not turn on. The only way the blower will turn back on is if I turn the power off and back on at the circuit breaker. Then it will start, ignite, make the humming noise and turn off again with no error codes. I have not inspected the burners or heat exchanger yet, but I'm thinking there's a blockage somewhere. I do not see any water leaking. Any ideas on what this issue could be?

As a side note, the heater was doing the exact same thing before I replaced the combustion blower. The old blower was pretty worn out and brittle so just changed it.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
38,922
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Is the heater NG or LP?

I would check the gas pressures with a manometer. With an old heater you may have a corroded gas line blocking the gas flow. Humming can come from low gas pressure.

You can also have a flame sensing problem. Maybe @swamprat69 @1poolman1 knows how the IDL heater does flame sensing.

The lockout requiring a power cycle indicates an ignition problem.
 

1poolman1

In The Industry
Jul 14, 2014
2,921
Sacramento
Thanks I'll get the gas pressure tested. The heater is NG.
Its important to check for spider nests in the orifices, especially the one on the far left, right at the igniter on an IDL heater. Usually if that one is blocked the heater won't light, but it could, but the flame-sense rod won't see flame and you could have the problem. The manifold on and IDL heater is the easiest to remove and replace of all the heaters I have worked on.

Remove the gas line from the main gas valve. This will require closing the external gas valve, opening any union in the line, unthreading pipe from the main gas valve. There will be about 6 screws that hold the manifold in place. A 5/16" socket or nut driver will easily remove and replace those. You will need either a 3/8" or 7/16" wrench to remove any clogged orifices (Hayward used different sizes occasionally so have both available). Always remove the clogged orifice and push whatever is blocking it out toward the back. Us a copper wire, a toothpick, small twig, so as to not scratch the orifice. You don't want to push the debris into the manifold, it will just move and block somewhere else.

On reassembling, be sure to use some pipe sealant for gas, a small tube of RectorSeal #5 is about $4-5. Be sure the union is tight, no sealant is used. After you get it all assembled, turn the external valve on and check for leaks with a bit of soapy water at each joint you disturbed. You will see how far the pipes were threaded into the fittings by whatever was used to seal initially. Use that as a guide. It is especially important to not get too tight going into the main gas valve in the heater, it will crack and need to be replaced. Always leave at least three threads showing outside any fitting.

This probably sounds harder than it really is, but if you are not comfortable working on gas plumbing, call a pro. That is the safest way if you are not the DIY type. Most likely, the tech that checks your gas pressure could do this if the gas pressure is not the issue.
 

Kevink

Bronze Supporter
Jun 30, 2011
39
Austin, TX
This probably sounds harder than it really is, but if you are not comfortable working on gas plumbing, call a pro. That is the safest way if you are not the DIY type. Most likely, the tech that checks your gas pressure could do this if the gas pressure is not the issue.

Great, thanks! I finally had some time to check the orifices and everything seems to be clean.

Here's an update: Today I started the heater and it worked fine for about 8 minutes. After about 1 minute from starting, I heard the hum again which you can hear in the link to the video I posted. Then the hum went away and it worked fine until it shut down. When it initially shut down there were no error messages. But then it tried to restart, and I eventually got the flashing AO error message. From that point, the heater would not start again unless I turned off the circuit breaker.

Dropbox Video of Hayward Heater Hum Noise

I've read quite a few pool heater threads and I can't find any issue like the one I'm having. Very frustrating. The heater turns on, ignites, gives heat, but then shuts down after a few minutes. Maybe time to call a pro.