Hayward H250 Cycles on/off when pump starts in the morning.


Jul 2, 2009
So I've had this problem for a while and was hoping somebody might have a solution. My pump/heater/swg etc are on a timer.
When the pool powers on in the morning my heater starts then shuts off after 5-10 seconds. It does this 3 times and reports
I/F. (Ignition failure). If I try cycling the heater over and over it does the same thing. If a wait a 1/2 on hour to a
couple of hours and cycle the heater again it fires and and runs like a champ for the rest of the day. Cycling on and off as needed.

The next day same problem. I thought the problem might be condensation overnight so I did an experiment and powered on the pool
an hour after it had shut down for the night. Same problem. I recently had my gas meter upgraded to a larger model thinking that was
the issue. It did not help.

So could this be a problem with the water pressure sensor? The guy who shut down my pool the first fall I had it disconnected it so
it could drain. (At least I think it was the sensor) Is there a chance that when I reconnected it that it is not tight enough or is leaking?
Also is it possible to adjust this sensor or can I jumper it see if it is the problem?

Thanks for any advice you can provide.




Jul 2, 2009
Hayward H250 purchased in 2008.

Hmmm, so if it's not the pressure switch then I'm stumped again. Could it be a bad capacitor that takes a long time to charge?
If I cycle the heater over and over I can get it going in again or I can just wait for a while. Such a pain....

From the Hayward Web Site: Things to check for cycling heater:

# Inadequate water flow caused by a dirty filter or closed valves. (No)
# External bypass needs adjusting. (Don't have one)
# Reversed water connections. (No)
# Water pressure switch is out of adjustment. (Uh they seem to think it will start)
# It is also possible that the thermostat is out of calibration. (So how do I calibrate it?) Seems to indicate within a degree of the pool temp.


TFP Expert
May 20, 2007
South Central NJ
The igniter is also the flame sensor. You hear the tick tick tick, ignition then nothing. It's the igniter. Not a hard thing to swap. On nut, one bolt, one wire.


PS- Mine crapped out this year too.


Jul 2, 2009
Well that sounds plausible. So why does the flame sensor start working after the power has been on for a couple of hours?
I suppose I could have a cold solder somewhere or maybe a poor connection. I'll have to try and find a diagram, not too sure
where the sensor/ignitor is.

Thanks for the input. I'll have too see who stocks this part.



OK found a diagram, what I thought was the igniter/sensor actually is. Looks pretty simple to replace. I guess it's worth a shot. I'll check the connections
and wiring in the morning and see if I can't get it too behave properly.
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