Hayward H-40 incorrect readings - no chlorine generation

[wetandmild]

I have a Hayward H-40 system that is currently not generating chlorine. When I cycle through the readings I see:

Salt Level - 2.00
Water Temp - 23
Voltage - 31.9
amperage - alternates between 1.9 and 0
desired output - 61p
Instant salt reading - somewhere between 0 and 2 (even after reset)
product code - AL-0
software revision - r 1.58
Turbo Cell type - t-9

Currently have the "low salt" and "check cell" lights on.

T-Cell is 2 or 3 years old and was cleaned last week with muriatic acid. It is a Hayward cell.
System is between 10 and 15 years old and has the original PCB (G1-011056-1, Rev. C). I had to do the varistor replacement a few years ago.

I am leaning toward needing a new PCB, but before I spend that much money, I want to be as sure as possible.

Would appreciate any suggestions regarding further testing, evaluation, and recommendations for solutions.

 

[JamesW]

Go to the water temp (23) and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto.

Then, move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Is the cell a T-9?

Have you verified the actual salinity with a K-1766 salt test kit?

 

[wetandmild]

The cell is a T-9 (Hayward). I don't have the means to verify salinity, but Leslie's Pool said it's 2700.
I did the switch toggle as you suggested, and it did change some values. New values:
Salt Level - 1900 (was 2.0)
Water Temp - 77 (was 23)
Voltage - 31.3
amperage - 0
desired output - 61p
Instant salt reading - 0 (don't see the fluctuation now)
product code - AL-0
software revision - r 1.58
Turbo Cell type - t-9

Still seeing "low salt" and "Check cell" LEDs

 

[JamesW]

I would increase the salinity by about 900 ppm.

Definitely get a K-1766 salt test kit.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

tftestkits.net

 

[wetandmild]

So, it sounds like you're saying that I should not trust the salinity results from Leslie's?

 

[JamesW]

Any time you get two different readings, you need a third to break the tie.

In any case, we believe in our own testing.

 

[wetandmild]

Fair enough. Turns out I actually have a K-1766 test kit. I will test the water tomorrow and post back.
I appreciate your responses.

 

[wetandmild]

Well, making progress... The K-1766 showed 2600 (13 drops X 200). I monkeyed around with the instant salinity reset and I never could get it above 1500, but when I checked the salt level, it was at 2600. And the "generating" LED was on (with the "check salt" LED blinking. When I went back out a few hours later salt level had dropped to 2300 and check salt was on solid. I decided to get more salt and took a water sample to Leslie's. They have a new-fangled water test system which is supposed to remove human error from the testing process. That thing measured the salt level at 1500! Good grief! I expressed my disbelief and so they tested the old fashioned way and got 2000. I have added two bags of salt (15000 gallon pool) and will check it again in the morning. Also, I am now getting a current reading from the cell. That's good. Thanks again for the advice.

 

[JamesW]

I'm always careful not to over rely on a single salinity test. Sometimes the test is incorrect. Test at least every other week to understand the salinity better and how it changes over time.

 

[wetandmild]

I added salt and retested with the K-1766. It now shows 2800-3000 salt level. I have been playing with the instant salinity reset and as it increments down, I have tried to stop it at 3000. It continues though, all the way down to -1300. What I have noticed though is that afterward I see the salt level reading 3000, and the "generating" LED is on, and the "Low Salt" LED is off. I am able to measure chlorine in the pool and am seeing the pH rise, so I believe it is generating. Over the course of a day though, the salt level gradually lowers until it gets to 2500. At that point the "generating" LED is off and the "Low Salt" LED is on. At this point it certainly appears that something is wrong, I just need to find out what. I believe my two options are salt cell or mother board. I would prefer motherboard, as it's cheaper, but I don't know how to tell. Does anyone have any pointers on how to narrow this down?

 

[JamesW]

What are the first seven characters of the cell serial number?

I suspect that the cell is dead.

When you get a definite actual salinity, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

If the number is 75% or less, the cell is dead.

Maybe consider switching to a T-15 cell.

 

[wetandmild]

Cell s/n - 3E16166. With regards to the math, you're saying to divide the "Salt Level" (once it settles) by the "Instant Salinity" level. Also, you suggest considering a T-15 cell. The system was installed originally with a T-15 but since my pool is 15000 gallons, I dropped down to a T-9 to save money. What would be the reason to go back to a T-15. Is it because it would not have to "work" as hard and would therefore last longer?

 

[JamesW]

Divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity to get the performance percentage of the cell.

Check the instant salinity reading and then move the switch from auto to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the instant salinity.

That reverses the polarity. If the instant salinity reading is not the same in both polarities, the cell is probably bad.

In my opinion, the T-15 is the best choice.