Hayward AquaRite - Salt Generator Controller Blues


New member
Jun 15, 2020
Houston, TX
Happy Summer Y'all! I'm diving into pool maintenance since things are heading south and my pool maintenance contract is very very basic. First up is my SWG. It is an AquaRite, with a T-15 cell. Last fall it gave up the ghost - none of the LED lights come on, though the alphanumeric readout is still alive, and the diagnostic button still cycles though the different parameters. I've cycled the power to no avail. I had the salt cell tested, and it's ok. It is only a couple of years old. However, the controller is about 9 years old. I see I can buy the guts of the controller, but I want to make sure there's not something simpler I can do first. Would anyone here have a troubleshooting guide? What additional information can I provide?




TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.


K-1766 Taylor Salt Test
This salt test is very dependable and repeatable. Care must be taken to observe the endpoint precisely. An overshoot of the endpoint will invalidate the results. Read instructions carefully.

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

  • Default salt display
  • Pool temp
  • Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
  • Cell current
  • Desired output (% of the knob)
  • Instant salinity
  • Product name
  • Software revision (r.XX)
If the voltage is below 30 while the cell is off or below 24 while the cell is on, the thermistor is probably bad, especially if the voltage is going up and down.



New member
Jun 15, 2020
Houston, TX
Thanks for the quick reply! Here go the diagnostics: (they were pretty much the same for off, auto, auto after cycling off 1 minute)

Salt - 3400
Temp - 86
Cell V - 9.6
Call amp - 0
Output - 62p (knob was set to 50)
Salinity - 0
Product - AL-0
Software rev - r1.58
Cell - T-15

The number on the control board PCB - G1-011056-1 Rev B

I am assuming the salinity of the pool is very low, since I have been running chlorine tabs since the fall. I don't have a handy way to test the salinity right now.

The Cell is a T-15

From your write-up it sounds like a bad thermistor?

Thanks again,



Well-known member
Apr 21, 2020
Apex, NC
I have replaced the thermistor as the video above shows but you have to be a little handy with the soldering iron to do it.
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