Hayward Aqua Rite not recalibrating, Instant Salinity and Salt Level stuck at Zero

figov

Member
Aug 4, 2020
9
Dallas, TX
Hello all,
I have a Hayward Aqua Rite that shows a zero reading for salt and instant salinity also shows zero.
The water has been tested at Leslie’s multiple times to show 3200 salt level.
The salt cell is new and has been tested at Leslie’s to show that it works well.
The chlorinator is not generating chlorine as evidenced by numerous tests at Leslie’s even though the desired output level is set at 90%.
Located in sunny Dallas and I run the pump 10 hours a day.
When I try to recalibrate, the recalibration does not work, auto to off and then back to auto, press the diagnostic button five times, I hear a click but the salt level reading does not change value from -zero.
When I turn the chlorinator on, the ‘power’ light is on and works fine, the ‘generating’ light comes on and after a minute or so it goes off and the ‘check salt’ and ‘inspect cell’ lights come on and stay solid red and green respectively. No other lights either come on or blink.
I removed the PCB and it looks fine, no visible flaws or burn out on any of the components or behind the PCB. Cleaned the contact points with isopropyl alcohol, also cleaned the salt cell plug points at the PCB for any oxidation.
The readings on the display panel in order.
1. 0 salt level
2. 90 temperature
3. 32.7 cell voltage
4. 0 cell current
5. 90p output
6. -0 salinity
7. AL-0
8. R 1.59 software version
9. Cell type T-15 ( matches the salt cell)
What could be going wrong?
Is it the Salt cell or the PCB or the Display panel? If PCB what component could lead to a problem like this?
Thank you in advance!
 
Last edited:

C0d3Sp4c3

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2018
101
NorCal
Interesting! If you have access to a digital multimeter, confirm if the 31vdc is present across side A and B on the pcb cell jack as shown in the below pic.
You may want to remove the front panel to get a clear view of the cell jack conn on the pcb.
Here's a detailed instruction for you.
1. Disconnect the cell from the pcb> run the pump> turn on the swcg> move the switch to auto> wait for the blinking "No Flow" indicator to turn off> thereafter the generating led should come on> followed by a click.
2. Set the multimeter to measure DC voltage> place one of the tests lead to either pin 2 or 4 of side A and the other test lead to either pin 1 or 3 of side B.
3. Report back
J5_conn.JPG
 
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figov

Member
Aug 4, 2020
9
Dallas, TX
Interesting! If you have access to a digital multimeter, confirm if the 31vdc is present across side A and B on the pcb cell jack as shown in the below pic.
You may want to remove the front panel to get a clear view of the cell jack conn on the pcb.
Here's a detailed instruction for you.
1. Disconnect the cell from the pcb> run the pump> turn on the swcg> move the switch to auto> wait for the blinking "No Flow" indicator to turn off> thereafter the generating led should come on> followed by a click.
2. Set the multimeter to measure DC voltage> place one of the tests lead to either pin 2 or 4 of side A and the other test lead to either pin 1 or 3 of side B.
3. Report back
View attachment 156842
Completed the steps. Report:
Once the ‘generating’ light came on, I inserted the multimeter leads into 2 & 1, 4 & 3, 2 & 3 and 1 & 4 pins, in all four combinations the reading showed 32 volts.
However, once the ‘generating’ light went off and the ‘check salt’ and ‘inspect cell’ lights came on, the multimeter readings in the four combinations showed 0 volts.
Are we onto something? Thanks for your time!
 

chlorinatorpro

In The Industry
Feb 16, 2016
104
CA
This is an issue where you probably need to call Hayward especially since the cell is new. I'm betting that something is going on with the board. Normally I would just shut everything off, unplug cords, flip the main power off, let it rest for 10 minutes, and then plug everything back in and see if there is a reset. The ole wing and a prayer!
 

figov

Member
Aug 4, 2020
9
Dallas, TX
This is an issue where you probably need to call Hayward especially since the cell is new. I'm betting that something is going on with the board. Normally I would just shut everything off, unplug cords, flip the main power off, let it rest for 10 minutes, and then plug everything back in and see if there is a reset. The ole wing and a prayer!
I agree, I called them, but their support is restricted to emails with a 5 day response time due to the pandemic, standard response seems to be to dismantle everything and take it to one of their service centers! The cell is new but the panel board is 2013 so out of warranty. I can change the PCB myself if that’s needed or maybe even solder in new components. That’s why I’m turning to this community. I have done the unplug, trip breakers, reset, etc., but to no avail.
 

C0d3Sp4c3

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2018
101
NorCal
Completed the steps. Report:
Once the ‘generating’ light came on, I inserted the multimeter leads into 2 & 1, 4 & 3, 2 & 3 and 1 & 4 pins, in all four combinations the reading showed 32 volts.
However, once the ‘generating’ light went off and the ‘check salt’ and ‘inspect cell’ lights came on, the multimeter readings in the four combinations showed 0 volts.
Are we onto something? Thanks for your time!
Correct! If the cell is unplugged, the check salt and inspect cell indicators should turn solid in about 50 secs after you hear the click. The same is true if the salt level falls below the minimum threshold of 2300ppm. I doubt you have zero salt in your pool. I think you should get a reliable salt test kit like the Taylor K-1766.
Can you test with the old cell and see if it reports back the salinity? Otherwise, call in for a warranty.
 

chlorinatorpro

In The Industry
Feb 16, 2016
104
CA
I agree, I called them, but their support is restricted to emails with a 5 day response time due to the pandemic, standard response seems to be to dismantle everything and take it to one of their service centers! The cell is new but the panel board is 2013 so out of warranty. I can change the PCB myself if that’s needed or maybe even solder in new components. That’s why I’m turning to this community. I have done the unplug, trip breakers, reset, etc., but to no avail.
Wow, that is quite disappointing to hear. Customer service folks working from home rather than from the office shouldn't cause much of a delay but it seems to give Hayward the perfect excuse to drag it's feet.
 
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figov

Member
Aug 4, 2020
9
Dallas, TX
Correct! If the cell is unplugged, the check salt and inspect cell indicators should turn solid in about 50 secs after you hear the click. The same is true if the salt level falls below the minimum threshold of 2300ppm. I doubt you have zero salt in your pool. I think you should get a reliable salt test kit like the Taylor K-1766.
Can you test with the old cell and see if it reports back the salinity? Otherwise, call in for a warranty.
So if I interpreted it correctly, it’s not a PCB / panel issue, it’s potentially a salt cell issue if the salt level is indeed at 3000 after using an independent test, and to call in warranty on salt cell? Thanks!
Also, as noted in original post above, the salt cell was taken into Leslie’s and tested whether it was generating salt and it passed.
 
Last edited:

C0d3Sp4c3

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2018
101
NorCal
Going by your 1st post, your aquarite behaved the way it should when the salt cell is unplugged. The presence of 32vdc at the cell jack confirms that your mainboard is operational. However, the so-called new cell when plugged in is not returning feedback to the controller.
Try to connect the old cell, press the diagnostic button within 50 secs after you hear the click and post all the numbers. Plug the new cell and repeat.
Btw, don't just give up on your r1.59. I will work on you on that if determined faulty.
 
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figov

Member
Aug 4, 2020
9
Dallas, TX
Going by your 1st post, your aquarite behaved the way it should when the salt cell is unplugged. The presence of 32vdc at the cell jack confirms that your mainboard is operational. However, the so-called new cell when plugged in is not returning feedback to the controller.
Try to connect the old cell, press the diagnostic button within 50 secs after you hear the click and post all the numbers. Plug the new cell and repeat.
Btw, don't just give up on your r1.59. I will work on you on that if determined faulty.
With the old salt cell (this was tested previously at Leslie’s and shown not in working condition) plugged in, following were the readings just after the ‘generating’ light came on and the click:
1. 0 salt level
2. 90 temperature
3. 27.9 cell voltage
4. 5.02 cell current (started at 6.35 and settled at 5.02)
5. 90p output
6. -2300 salinity
7. AL-0
8. R 1.59 software version
9. Cell type T-15 ( matches the salt cell)
A minute later the generating light went out and the ‘check’ salt and ‘inspect’ cell lights came on, the readings then stood at:
1. 1400 salt level
2. 90 temperature
3. 33.2 cell voltage
4. 0 cell current
5. 90p output
6. -0 salinity
7. AL-0
8. R 1.59 software version
9. Cell type T-15 ( matches the salt cell)

I then plugged back the new cell, following were the readings:
1. 1000 salt level
2. 90 temperature
3. 32.4 cell voltage
4. 0 cell current
5. 90p output
6. -0 salinity
7. AL-0
8. R 1.59 software version
9. Cell type T-15 ( matches the salt cell)
As before, the recalibration did not work with the new cell.
 

C0d3Sp4c3

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2018
101
NorCal
Thank you for the update, much appreciated.
The diagnostic readings from the old cell confirmed that your controller bd is working properly. The chlorine production is halted because the old cell is depleted and incorrectly reporting the min threshold level of -2300 ppm. Hence, the check salt and inspect cell came on solid.

OTOH, the -0 instant salinity reading from the so-called new cell signifies that it is in not conducting as in completely dead! Not sure why Leslies claimed it passed the test. Forget about the recalibration, it does nothing at all but satisfies yourself! You can reference the above diagnostic readings to support your warranty claim.
 
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figov

Member
Aug 4, 2020
9
Dallas, TX
Thank you for the update, much appreciated.
The diagnostic readings from the old cell confirmed that your controller bd is working properly. The chlorine production is halted because the old cell is depleted and incorrectly reporting the min threshold level of -2300 ppm. Hence, the check salt and inspect cell came on solid.

OTOH, the -0 instant salinity reading from the so-called new cell signifies that it is in not conducting as in completely dead! Not sure why Leslies claimed it passed the test. Forget about the recalibration, it does nothing at all but satisfies yourself! You can reference the above diagnostic readings to support your warranty claim.
Replaced the salt cell and it’s now working fine. Thank you for the help.
Lesson learnt is not to trust what the shop says, like they did about the working nature of the salt cell.
 

Calgone18

Member
May 20, 2020
8
Sharon, MA
Hi Figov..I’m having the same problem. Salt and instant salt are stuck at zero even after installing a new T15 cell. The only way I can get the system to work and for it to detect a higher salt and then recalibrate is to turn on my pool heater to 90 degrees. I live in New England so the water is normally high 70s. So in summary you were able to just change your salt cell to fix the problem?