My new tub (Bullfrog A5L) will be coming with the Frog @ease SmartChlor system. I’m naturally skeptical, but plan to give it a fair trial after an Ahh-some purge and will track results with my TF-100 kit.
The manufacturer claims the system builds a chlorine reserve that “shifts” to free chlorine as needed. What triggers this shifting? They also state that reserve will show up as Combined Chorine on standard test strips, so they include their own test strips. Curious how the FAS/DPD test will indicate.
I managed my previous tub TFP/BBB style, and eventually upgraded it to an in-line SWCG with excellent results. I may ultimately follow the same route with the new tub.
So maybe I don't want it! I was told it would dispense the proper amount of chlorine as needed. And that you may only need to shock monthly. They said the mineral cartridge lasts 4 months (@$30?) and the chlorine cartridges 2 to 3 months ($50). With a vacation rental, I thought the convenience/peace of mind might be worth the expense, not having to worry about the sanitizer level being ok when guests stay 3 or 7 nights or whatever.
So maybe I don't want it! I was told it would dispense the proper amount of chlorine as needed. And that you may only need to shock monthly. They said the mineral cartridge lasts 4 months (@$30?) and the chlorine cartridges 2 to 3 months ($50). With a vacation rental, I thought the convenience/peace of mind might be worth the expense, not having to worry about the sanitizer level being ok when guests stay 3 or 7 nights or whatever. But it won't work for us, I see now , because there is a setting, and our tub doesn't get consistent use. We may have 2 guests or 8 and we have some groups with kids who may use it heavily and others not.
I thought there already were chlorine floaters out there.You guys are forcing me to admit this...
My 245 gallon "American Whirlpool" (MAAX) came with this too. I am using it for the first fill because the guys who set it up threw in what I later read was dichlor and CYA from a small packet and dropped the thing in. IMHO it doesn't put enough FC in, and apparently MAAX Spas must somewhat agree because they also gave me MPS and said to hit it after every use, and Hit it hard weekly. (They also gave me dry acid, and sodium bicarbonate). This is contrary to the instructions from "King". In theory this should transform CC into FC, but I don't know because I've not had an issue with CC yet... because of my modification to the kit...
With a decent test kit (which right now mine is a hodgepodge, look at my "hello" message) I really didn't like the maybe not quite 1 PPM FC that the floater gives you consistently, and if you were to turn it up to 3 to 5 you'd be out in a week. Supposedly the silver is what they claims sanitizes but we know about that BS.
Since I have to do a water change at three months anyway, I have it set to run out at 3 months, but most of the time I oxidize, and in doing so, raise the FC up to a more reasonable range with Wal-Mart 10% Liquid Chlorine diluted with RO water from the kitchen sink. This combination works and my water is as great as you can get in Arizona (the TA was super high when I started and it took 2 weeks to stop the pH upwards creep, I might want to ask all of the Tucsonians here some questions as I see some specific problems with the water here...especially what are the other minerals in such high quantity in our water other than Mg, Ca and Na?)... but that's because of the initial CYA packet and the bleach, not really the Frog system.
I do like the idea of having a floater so I can go away for a few days and not worry about it, so on the next fill I will switch to Bromine. It will work the same way or better than the Frog system plus bleach and will cost $14 for 3+ months at Wal-Mart....
The intent of that @Ease system is to make a chlorine version of the Bromine floater which to me seems kind of silly. I think the dimethylhydantoins might make the spa foam a little too, but a chemical engineer (I'm an electrical) will have to chime in on that. I suppose that will happen on Bromine too, since they are the "stabilizer" for Bromine -ish. I don't have a problem with that, but... It's interesting that they reformulated Bromine powdered chlorine shock as a slow release non CYA releasing chlorine, but it doesn't really seem to work that well.
No matter what, putzing with this thing was good practice for the pool I am building... I am more or less doing TFP on it on a small scale with that Frog thing as a small cheat.
Bromine with a functioning ozone system is what you need for a tub like yours. You also need someone that can manage it before & after renters use it. It should be setup on a strict timer system with a preset temperature range so that hot tub users don’t have any control over it other than turning on a timer. The CDC guidelines suggest that no one person should soak in a 104F hot tub for longer than 45mins, and far less than that for children or woman who are pregnant. It’s tough owning a vacation rental with pools/hot tubs as your exposure to liability is a lot higher.
Yeah but there are real issues with trichlor and dichlor in 250 gallon tubs. The frog is selling itself as a "low chlorine" equivalent to a bromine floater. For $79 every three months versus six months worth at Walmart for $14 of Bromine.I thought there already were chlorine floaters out there.