Hard Piping AGP w/ light

Bronco

Member
Jun 3, 2010
9
SE PA
First off I must say this is a wonderful place. I've already learned a ton and the community seems to be very friendly.

I'm sick of leaking flex hoses after 3 seasons and plan on converting my AGP to hard piping this weekend. I've read the other threads on the subject and they have provided me with a lot of helpful information. I do however have a question on how people might tackle this.

I recently purchased this light:



It works great, really lights up our 24' oval. unfortunately it has the standard connect to a flex hose connection on the inlet side of it (on the bottom). It leaks no matter what I do with a flex hose - I just can't get it clamped tight enough. I even slipped a fernco over the flex hose and tried using that - it completely blew off when I started up the pump.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to include this in a hard piped set up? Does anyone have a link to a better flex hose connection that I could clamp to this thing? If I can hard pipe everything but say a 1' section of hose that connects to the light...maybe that would work?
 

NWMNMom

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 8, 2007
1,582
Waaay NW MN
Is it the kind of light that replaces/fits your return? What is the size/type of the male end outside the pool that you are having leaking issues? Have you tried the flex PVC or just standard PVC to a union?
 

Bronco

Member
Jun 3, 2010
9
SE PA
NWMNMom said:
Is it the kind of light that replaces/fits your return? What is the size/type of the male end outside the pool that you are having leaking issues? Have you tried the flex PVC or just standard PVC to a union?
Yes it replaces my return. Its a 1 1/2" 'hose barb' end that the corrugated flex hose connects onto with a band clamp. When you say flex PVC do you mean like PEX piping? If so, I've never used it before. I'd like to convert it over to standard PVC but I'm not sure how to go from the 1 1/2" hose barb end to rigid PVC.
 

NWMNMom

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 8, 2007
1,582
Waaay NW MN
Here is a site with flex pvc http://www.flexpvc.com/ Does that barbed end screw out? If so just replace with appropriate pvc end to a coupler or union. If not a section of flex pvc with hose clamp to sched 40 and union so it can easily be removed as needed?
 

Bronco

Member
Jun 3, 2010
9
SE PA
NWMNMom said:
Here is a site with flex pvc http://www.flexpvc.com/ Does that barbed end screw out? If so just replace with appropriate pvc end to a coupler or union. If not a section of flex pvc with hose clamp to sched 40 and union so it can easily be removed as needed?
That site is great. The connection on the inlet of the light is a pool hose adapter as per them. Is it possible to use the flex pvc with a hose clamp? Am I better off getting PVC tubing for that portion then converting over to sch 40? I'm not sure how easy it is to force the flex pvc over the pool hose adapter...

The less tubing and more hard/flexible pipe I have the better off I will be I think.
 

NWMNMom

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 8, 2007
1,582
Waaay NW MN
Bronco said:
NWMNMom said:
Here is a site with flex pvc http://www.flexpvc.com/ Does that barbed end screw out? If so just replace with appropriate pvc end to a coupler or union. If not a section of flex pvc with hose clamp to sched 40 and union so it can easily be removed as needed?
That site is great. The connection on the inlet of the light is a pool hose adapter as per them. Is it possible to use the flex pvc with a hose clamp? Am I better off getting PVC tubing for that portion then converting over to sch 40? I'm not sure how easy it is to force the flex pvc over the pool hose adapter...

The less tubing and more hard/flexible pipe I have the better off I will be I think.
Yes, you can and should use a hose clamp in that situation or some folks use a cement. We like to be able to remove as needed. We have one on our pump just exactly like your situation going to the skimmer. We used a bit of silicone lube and it went on just fine with a nice tight leak free fit.

Sched 40 is the recommended PVC type besides Flex PVC so its a matter of which is easiest for you and least expensive. We did get our Flex PVC at Lowes available in 6' sections. We have both and NO more unreliable regular corregated flex hoses that blow off or leak. Make sure to install plenty of unions to ensure easy removal and shut off valves so you can maintain without water loss
 

ultra800_96

LifeTime Supporter
May 15, 2009
225
Pomeroy, Iowa
I have that identical light. I was upgrading to 1 1/2" hose & when I got to that fitting, whoops, it's only 1 1/4, not 1 1/2". So for the hose running to the light/return, I had to stay with 1 1/4". I've never had a hose blow off of that fitting. Are you sure yours is 1 1/2?
 

Bronco

Member
Jun 3, 2010
9
SE PA
ultra800_96 said:
I have that identical light. I was upgrading to 1 1/2" hose & when I got to that fitting, whoops, it's only 1 1/4, not 1 1/2". So for the hose running to the light/return, I had to stay with 1 1/4". I've never had a hose blow off of that fitting. Are you sure yours is 1 1/2?
That might explain why I can't seem to get a tight enough seal with the clamps on it using a 1 1/2" hose. I'll look to pick up a 1 1/2" X 1 1/4" reducer then. Thanks for the tip.
 

flyweed

Bronze Supporter
Aug 3, 2009
524
SW Wisconsin
if you want to do a nice connecton and still run rigid pvc right up to that light...you can do what I did..I ran my rigid 1 1/2" to about an inch of my inlet/light (I have the same one as you) and then used a Fernco flexible connector that was a 1 1/2" one side and a 1 1/4" on the other..and attached that to the light...works like a charm and no more flex hose.

Dan
 

Bronco

Member
Jun 3, 2010
9
SE PA
flyweed said:
if you want to do a nice connecton and still run rigid pvc right up to that light...you can do what I did..I ran my rigid 1 1/2" to about an inch of my inlet/light (I have the same one as you) and then used a Fernco flexible connector that was a 1 1/2" one side and a 1 1/4" on the other..and attached that to the light...works like a charm and no more flex hose.

Dan
Dan,

That is exactly what I did and it has been working great for several days now. Thanks again to all for their advice.
 

artattacktat2

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2010
48
Piedmont of NC
Hard piped my plumbing and ran into the same issue with the same light/return setup. Good idea (wished I came up with it) =0) will try the fernco after draining and winterizing.
 

rjg202

LifeTime Supporter
Bronco said:
flyweed said:
if you want to do a nice connecton and still run rigid pvc right up to that light...you can do what I did..I ran my rigid 1 1/2" to about an inch of my inlet/light (I have the same one as you) and then used a Fernco flexible connector that was a 1 1/2" one side and a 1 1/4" on the other..and attached that to the light...works like a charm and no more flex hose.
Are the fernco adapters able to be used with SWG's? Also I realize it is only 2 clamps but is that defeating the purpose of hard plumbing? I am looking at possibly using this plus it would cut down no vibration I guess. Also the light at least mine is a slight offset angle, is flex pipe acceptable? Lastly if I am going SWG should I just toss the chlorinator? or Pipe it in with with shutoffs around it for a backup? Am I overthinking this?
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2009
22,969
SouthWest Alabama
The problem with Fernco fittings is that they're not designed for pressure applications. Use at your own risk!
Real flexible PVC isn't a problem. I don't like the way it looks but it's designed for pressure applications and it's designed to be cemented.
 

rjg202

LifeTime Supporter
I found some references to this Pentair Hard Plumbing adapter on this site as well as other(p/n79202900) It runs from $7 to $10 and supposedly is odd sized like the light. I am thinking of ordering this then attaching it to the light then a quick connect to it then a shutoff valve. That way I can undo the quick connect and shutoff valve. Stupid question do folks run their pipes above the ground or on the ground? I've seen both, if it is above how do you support it?
 

flyweed

Bronze Supporter
Aug 3, 2009
524
SW Wisconsin
why do you think you'd have a problem with a Fernco adaptor and a SWG? I've been running mine now for over 2 years using the Fernco AND a SWG and have ZERO problems with it. It continues to be a good, solid, watertight connection. (which can be easily removed if need be)
 

linen

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 30, 2010
8,649
Twin Cities, MN
Hey flyweed, what swg do you have? I have the intex and am using the fernco to attach to it because of it's not uniform threads :hammer: (I will eventually replace with another solution). Keep in mind, the fernco specifies a maximum test pressure of 4.3 psi and is generally made for dwv applications (non pressure), so use at your own risk. The shielded version is probably better than the non-shielded, but requires the adjoining pipes to be the same diameter.
 

flyweed

Bronze Supporter
Aug 3, 2009
524
SW Wisconsin
I have an Aussie built "CompuChlor" self cleaning SWG...and it works great. I know that Fernco fittings are not rated for pressure, but it is working flawlessly now into it's 3rd season. Now, it may not last forever, but that's ok...when it "dies" I'll just replace it with another one.
 

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