Hand holding needed! Water balancing attempt for SWG conversion .

[cparktd]

Hello, You guys are awesome, seeing the time and effort you put into helping the masses! Hopefully you can help me!

I’m Thomas, retired, have time to do this! Live in middle Tennessee.
I have an ionizer pool, (copper) 24’ x 54” (48 inches of water) ~13,600 gallons. Two speed 2 HP pump and 26” sand filter. ~3 years old, is my first real pool. Pump pushes 65 GPM on High and 35 GPM on low (per an FV-C Control FlowVis ). 2 inch fairly streamlined piping.

Kind of tired of the current system, high cost and poor performance and my pool seldom looking really really good, also the concern that it hasn’t been actually sanitary. SO, I have after much thought bought a Circupool RJ45 Plus SWG. Arriving 6/10. 20 years as a Electrician and Plumber so physical install is a non issue. You can see photos of my setup here… gallery of thumbnails, click to expand, some with comments. pool by T D

I have an assortment of test kits that I have survived on so far…
HTC 6 way, Taylor Phosphate, Borate test strips, AquaCheck 7 way strips and salt strips, LaMotte copper and a Pentair CA kit.

Having learned better here…. I have ordered a K-2006C and stirrer, arriving Thursday 6/10.

I just opened the pool to clear water and have added 3 gallon of bleach, 5 bags of salt, 4 boxes of Borax and 1 gallon of Muritic acid in an attempt prepare the water for the SWG or at least get it in the neighborhood of where it ultimately should be. Might note we are looking at a predicted week of rain ahead.

So this is where the hand holding comes in! This chemical stuff can be a bit overwhelming and I want your advice and oversight to prevent me from screwing up! And yes I have spent days reading and researching, mostly here but my retention suffers.

I will post my current numbers taken with my hodge-podge of kits.
Is there anything else I need or can do now while waiting on my SWG and test kit?

Trip to town in the morning planned for more acid, salt, and stabilizer to have on hand…
I still have a couple boxes of borax on hand. and several gal of bleach.

Sorry for the long read but the more info the better right?

In addition to the previous adds…. I today added one more bag of salt, 2 gal 10% bleach and one of Acid. AFTER the readings below were taken so that are NOT included in the numbers below

Circupool recommends 3000 to 4000 salt, target 3,500. I see the recommendation here of 200 additional above target so 3700?

Salt…. 2660.
CYA…. 50.
FC…. virtually 0
TC…. virtually 0
PH…. 7.8
TA….. 80.
CH…. Not tested.
TH…. 60
CA… 0
Water Temp…. 75


Thanks in advance
Thomas

 

[HermanTX]

Great that you have moved to a SWCG. Keep us updated on your experience with it.
Couple of things I have learned
Use liquid chlorine to get to your target FC then use the SWCG to maintain your FC level.
Increase your CYA slowly so you do not overshoot. I only add a 1 pd to 2 pds at at time then retest 2-3 days later as it takes some time to full dilute in the pool water.
Do all proper testing with your K-2006 when you receive it. Also, did you order the K-1766 Salt test kit? That is better then test strips for salt.
Follow the FC/CYA Levels for SWCG
Do you use PoolMath? That is a great app to track all your testing but also to determine how much of which chemical to add based on your specific pool parameters.
Good Luck.

 

[cparktd]

Use liquid chlorine to get to your target FC then use the SWCG to maintain your FC level.

Yep, got some bought up!

Increase your CYA slowly so you do not overshoot. I only add a 1 pd to 2 pds at at time then retest 2-3 days later as it takes some time to full dilute in the pool water.

Got it!

Also, did you order the K-1766 Salt test kit? That is better then test strips for salt.

No... but I have now!

Follow the FC/CYA Levels for SWCG
Do you use PoolMath? That is a great app to track all your testing but also to determine how much of which chemical to add based on your specific pool parameters.
Good Luck.

Yes, got the app and have started playing with it, Also the online version here.

Thank You!!!

 

[aussieta]

test the ph ta and ch of your fill water
so you know what to expect over the next few years
eg if your fill water is high ta then you dont want to add any now
i wouldn't add anything except liquid chlorine until you have reliable test numbers

 

[cparktd]

test the ph ta and ch of your fill water
so you know what to expect over the next few years
eg if your fill water is high ta then you dont want to add any now
i wouldn't add anything except liquid chlorine until you have reliable test numbers

Ok thanks, will do when my kit comes in. Best guess it took about 1500 gallons to top it off this year.

 

[Bperry]

Ok thanks, will do when my kit comes in. Best guess it took about 1500 gallons to top it off this year.

I’d creep up on the salt as well. A bit extra won’t hurt it but once you start using the app to track CSI, it may help to have some headroom to adjust if needed. If the SWG doesn’t complain about low salt, then there’s no need to add more. My RJ thinks there’s 300ppm more than the test kit says there is.

 

[Katodude]

I just opened the pool to clear water and have added 3 gallon of bleach, 5 bags of salt, 4 boxes of Borax and 1 gallon of Muritic acid in an attempt prepare the water for the SWG or at least get it in the neighborhood of where it ultimately should be. Might note we are looking at a predicted week of rain ahead.

So I think a good read of the ABC’s of pool stuff would be valuable. You added Borax which raises pH and Muriatic acid which lowers pH, so you added two chemicals that cancel it other out. Not dangerous just wasteful and unnecessary.

And, BTW. Welcome!!! You are going to have a great pool to enjoy.

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[cparktd]

So I think a good read of the ABC’s of pool stuff would be valuable.

Yep, have done so multiple times...

You added Borax which raises pH and Muriatic acid which lowers pH, so you added two chemicals that cancel it other out. Not dangerous just wasteful and unnecessary.

In case you think I'm some nerd that shouldn't be allowed to handle anything stronger then water... I used Muriatic Acid for decades, in the construction business without issue, along bleach and many other chemicals so handling of such for me is no issue. Just takes a bit of common sense and following best practices.

Yes, cancel each other, for PH, but add Borates.
I was just following the "Borates - Why and How" article found here by Jasonlion to add Borates.

From the article... Borates - Why and How

• More stable PH
• Helps prevent algae
• Helps prevent scaling in a SWG cell
• Silky water feel
• More sparkle

Seemed like a good idea. Nice benefits for fairly small cost. No?

And, BTW. Welcome!!! You are going to have a great pool to enjoy.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to using the SWG!

 

[MITBeta]

Given that you very recently had a read of 0 chlorine, I'd run the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, especially before you add any more CYA.

 

[Katodude]

In case you think I'm some nerd that shouldn't be allowed to handle anything stronger then water... I used Muriatic Acid for decades, in the construction business without issue, along bleach and many other chemicals so handling of such for me is no issue. Just takes a bit of common sense and following best practices.

Yes, cancel each other, for PH, but add Borates.
I was just following the "Borates - Why and How" article found here by Jasonlion to add Borates.

Ah ok, you did it to add borates. Go for it, you appear to be in the advanced stage. I stand corrected!!!

 

[cparktd]

Ah ok, you did it to add borates. Go for it, you appear to be in the advanced stage. I stand corrected!!!

You were right to mention it... I have been reading up , a LOT, but I don't always comprehend or retain it all. It's very important and desired for me to have you guys oversight! I was actually working with stabilizer and borates a bit last year while still on the ionizer system. Right or wrong I also supplemented the ionizer with pucks to maintain at least a detectable level of chlorine. Thanks.

 

[cparktd]

Lord... bless me with the patience to not touch my pool until my test kit arrives!
I am slowly finding out just how bad the test I have are! Inconsistent and just bad results.
One more bag of salt and one gallon of bleach added today. Last single bag added raised it from 2660 to 2880. So this last bag should put me above the minimum of 3000.
I have two PH test, one reports 6.8 or lower and the other 7.4... So I sit and wait for the new test kit....

The water is really clear, to me anyway, but I might be like my friend who was going on about how good the food was at the Farmers Buffet. I told him if he thought that was good food... he had never HAD good food! So maybe I haven't ever had sparkling clear pool water to compare it to! I took the attached photo today, cloudy and windy day,
48 inches deep.

 

[aussieta]

I took the attached photo today, cloudy and windy day,
48 inches deep.

ready to post in the tfp clear page

How Clear is TFP Clear? Let's See (Pics Only Please).

How clear should my water be? A very common question. Here is mine on a calm morning where I could finally vacuum. Yes I know, I'm still manually vacuuming. It took me 7 years to finally get an SWG, I'm working on a robot. :) So now let's see your water clarity.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[cparktd]

YEA! Test kit came early!
SWG unit still on track for tomorrow delivery.
It's raining

6/8 PM test results.
FC- 0
PH- 7.0
TA- 70
CH- 50
CYA- 0
Borate- 25. (via test strips)
Salt- 3000. (via test strips)

So? First move?

Youtube vid of my fountain... effective for aeration?

 

[Katodude]

Get some LC in that pool right now. FC of 0 is not good.

And yes that will do aeration just fine. Its kind of nice to look at too.

 

[HermanTX]

FC- 0
PH- 7.0
TA- 70
CH- 50
CYA- 0
Borate- 25. (via test strips)
Salt- 3000. (via test strips)

So adding Liquid Chlorine is the most important first step. The next step (and right behind the LC additions) is to increase your CYA. If you don't then you will continue to add LC in high volumes because UV will be consuming it. You need the stabilizer to hold the chlorine that you do add. Add CYA in stages, first target 30 or 40 then you will move higher when you get your SWCG hooked up. Your pH will creep up to the 7.4 to 7.8 range if you use that aeration device.

 

[cparktd]

Working on it! Chlorine added. I have CA pre dissolving in a bucket. I hesitated to add until I got the OK from you guys. Calc. said add 72 oz, I have 30 oz in the bucket.

Should I run the aeration overnight?

Rain blew through and I had to vacuum out some leaves.

 

[Katodude]

Its getting late. Add in the morning. The CYA will reduce your pH as it is slightly acidic. Aerate overnight and measure again in the morning.

 

[cparktd]

OK guys... SWG came in about 3:30. Had it running in about 3 hours, rain slowed it down a bit. Set it to 70% per the manual. Still have a couple fitting that need to be changed, didn't have exactly the right ones.

Added 1 gallon of liquid stabilizer today about noon and have a sock with 30 oz of powered stabilizer hanging in from of the return.

So new test this evening.
6/9. PM
FC .2
CC .8
PH 7
TA 70
CH 50
CYA ~20 - 25
Borate 25
Salt (strips) 3525
Salt. SWG. 3250
Temp via SWG. 79

Now what? Do I leave the SWG on 70% or try higher or super mode or just be patient.
Should I help it out by adding some bleach?

Thanks for sticking with me!

 

[aussieta]

definitely get some liquid chlorine, aka bleach in asap
before it turns green