Green/Yellow Pool not improving

[splashpad]

Is there a way to tell if Bromide is tying up FC? It certainly seems to me (with limited knowledge) like the chlorine hasn't been doing its job.

I pulled this off the Taylor website FAQ section: (bold mine)
" DPD and OT undergo the same reaction with bromine as with chlorine, but the color intensities produced are different. To convert a bromine reading to chlorine, divide the result by 2.25. To convert a chlorine reading to bromine, multiply the result by 2.25. Taylor offers comparators that measure both bromine and chlorine—no conversions are necessary. "

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Kelli, good morning

I just wanted to tell you that although you mentioned needing to raise your calcium level, you do NOT. Your pool is vinyl, and needs none.

maddie

 

[Donldson]

Bromine would not cause foaming and would cause the opposite of what we are seeing re:FC depletion.

@hellokelli Can you post pictures of the bottles from the FAS-DPD test you are using? Something is definitely not right here, and some sort of error in testing (such as bad reagents) showing chlorine when there is none could explain the lack of progress. If this is just iron then it is one heck of an iron problem. Either way something very abnormal is going on and we want to help you get to the bottom of it.

 

[Flying Tivo]

As of now i think you have spent more in chems than a Drain/refill. Since you have the bromine problem and the iron problem, i think its time for an exchange. If you can build a system as TexasSplash posted for the new fill you will be ahead of the game. I also suggest new testing reagents.

 

[hellokelli]

Thank you so much for all the help everyone!

I re-tested this evening and here are my results:
FC: 8
CC: 1
TA:50
pH: 7.1 (color between 7.0 and 7.2)
CYA: I ran out of the 013 reagent, need to order more. However, I'm confident in my CYA reading from before. I had tested it twice and didn't add any shock since then.

We are very reluctant to drain and refill for two reasons (but I'm open to be convinced otherwise): 1. We were told our liner could pop out of the ground if we drain more than 25% of the pool. Where we live the water table is very high, we are basically right at sea level. 2. We would have to refill with city water that has high iron.

I'll post pics of my reagents next.

 

[hellokelli]

Here are my chlorine testing reagents:

both testing reagents were purchased new this year. (comparator tube is old)

Here are the expiration dates:



Here is what it looks like after I add the R-0870:

and then here after titrating with 16 drops of R-0871:

 

[kellyfair]

You keep your test kit in a cool shaded place, right? Reagents aren’t expired, but to be on the safe side you get get all new.

I don’t think anyone here thinks that is the reason though. I think you need to follow everyone’s advice and drain. There are ways to do it that won’t put your liner at risk.

 

[splashpad]

We are very reluctant to drain and refill for two reasons (but I'm open to be convinced otherwise): 1. We were told our liner could pop out of the ground if we drain more than 25% of the pool. Where we live the water table is very high, we are basically right at sea level. 2. We would have to refill with city water that has high iron.

With your CYA/40 chlorine addition would be manageable. However, deep green pool plus bromide = LOTS of liquid chlorine. At the pool store & farm stores it's sodium hypochlorite (10% or 12%) or LIQUID Pool Shock
Here is a brief discussion that helps with understanding that bromine does not go away
With that high water table you would have to do a water exchange (which can be done successfully), including steps on how to handle the high-iron water "at the source".