Goldline Aqua Rite SWCG Troubleshooting

[sac11550]

I need some help, please. I have an Aqua Rite Goldline saltwater system that was installed in 2005. Last swim season the salt cell went out and I put off buying a new one until this month. After replacing the T-15 cell with a generic cell and adding salt, I got a high salt warning light. I had the water tested at my local pool store and the salt was 3100. However, the display shows 4000. I then had the water tested at two other pool stores and they confirmed my salt was 3100. I replaced the PCB board and it still shows high salt. I then returned the new T-15 cell and purchased another one, and still get the high salt level at 4000. On the off chance that the new PCB was bad, I returned it and got a new one shipped to me. So after two salt cells, and multiple PCB replacements, and four water tests at three different stores (all at 3100) I am at a loss. Any ideas on what the problem is and how to fix it? At this point, I am ready to return everything and just use liquid chlorine and Cal Hypo to manage my water.

 

[wireform]

Firstly you need to get yourself a salinity test kit that you can trust. Pool stores and test strips are just not reliable.

 

[sac11550]

Firstly you need to get yourself a salinity test kit that you can trust. Pool stores and test strips are just not reliable.

Thank you for the info on the salinity test kit. However, what are the odds that four different tests, at three different pool stores, are all wrong, and came up with the same results?

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

/\ what he said! Mind sharing the diagnostic readings in order for us to help you better?

 

[sac11550]

Thank you for the help!

While turned to auto:
3700
86
25.1
7.84
63p
-3900
88-0
R8.80

While turned off:
3700
86
32.1
0.0
63p
88-0
R8.80

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

So you have a generic controller board. Sorry, but my experience is limited to Hayward OEM swcg only.
For Aquarite, the recommended salt level is between 2700-3400 ppm. A partial drain and refill should fix it. Let's see what others have to say.

 

[setsailsoon]

sac,

Something's definitely not right here. Pool store tests are notoriously unreliable, so are cell readings. No idea how 3rd party boards and cells affect all this. If it were me I'd buy the $20 K-1766 test kit before I scrapped everything. It's a proven reliable test that's super easy to use. I've done repeatability test myself and it is perfect for me. @ajw22 knows a lot about this stuff. Let's see if he can help.

Chris

 

[ajw22]

It sounds like @sac11550 has a generic board with a generic cell. It is a Hayward Aquarite system in label only and seems to behave differently.

The misreading of salinity is caused the board setting not matching the actual cell type. I don’t know what the proper setting is for non-Hayward stuff.

Post pics of the board and cell and maybe someone can identify it.

 

[JamesW]

The amps are reading 7.84. At 8.0 amps, the high salt light comes on.

The salinity is probably what is displayed on the box.

Get a K-1766 salt test kit.

You need to lower the salinity until the amps stay below 8.0.

 

[JamesW]

Note that salinity tests are not very accurate.

The actual salinity is probably somewhere between both readings.

In any case, the only thing you need to focus on is the amperage.

Get a K-1766 salt test kit, but go by the amperage to determine the correct salt level.

As long as you keep the amperage below 8.0 and the salinity reading above 2,700 ppm, you're good.

If you have a heater, you will need to lower the salinity more because the amps go up when the heater is on.

 

[ajw22]

I suspect your cell is depleted.

• Report all readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

 

[sac11550]

Update. As a test, I put the OEM board back in and tried it with the newest salt cell; for an hour or so everything looked great. The generating light was on and the following was on the display: 3500, 85, 25.2, 6.92, 51p, -3400, AL-0, R 1.40.

Then after an hour, I had the following on my display: 3600, 88, 32.1, 0.0, 51p, -0, AL-0, R 1.40.
Do I have to use an Aqua Rite Goldline Turbo T15 with the OEM board? I was told a T15 is a T15 regardless of the software version. Again, I am at a loss on what to do next. Thanks!

 

[ajw22]

Update. As a test, I put the OEM board back in and for an hour or so everything looked great. The generating light was on and the following was on the display: 3500, 85, 25.2, 6.92, 51p, -3400, AL-0, R 1.40.

Then after an hour, I had the following on my display: 3600, 88, 32.1, 0.0, 51p, -0, AL-0, R 1.40.

Your Aquarite has a 120 minute cycle time. You have it set for 51%. It will generate for 60 minutes and be idle for 60 minutes. I suspect when you looked at the second set of readings it was during the idle time.

 

[ajw22]

You should get the K-1766 Taylor Salt Test to confirm you salt level.

But I think your cell needs to be replaced.

@JamesW

 

[sac11550]

AJW22... Thanks for the info. I am learning a lot from you all. Okay, so I just went out and cranked up the output, heard a click, and then got the following readings: 3500, 87, 24.6, 7.23, 90p, -3600 (still high though), R 1.40 and the generating light is on. Despite being 200 over the 3400 there is no high salt light, yet.

 

[ajw22]

You will not get the high salt light until its calculated salt is high enough to draw over 8.0 amps. In your last run you were 7.23 amps.

 

[sac11550]

I don't know if it means anything, but the top of the box is very warm, almost too warm to put my hand on. Is that normal and/or a sign of a problem?

 

[JamesW]

If the voltage is fluctuating a lot, I would replace the thermistor first.

 

[sac11550]

m

 

[sac11550]