Goldline Aqua Rite SWCG Troubleshooting

sac11550

Member
Oct 16, 2010
18
Rocklin, California
I need some help, please. I have an Aqua Rite Goldline saltwater system that was installed in 2005. Last swim season the salt cell went out and I put off buying a new one until this month. After replacing the T-15 cell with a generic cell and adding salt, I got a high salt warning light. I had the water tested at my local pool store and the salt was 3100. However, the display shows 4000. I then had the water tested at two other pool stores and they confirmed my salt was 3100. I replaced the PCB board and it still shows high salt. I then returned the new T-15 cell and purchased another one, and still get the high salt level at 4000. On the off chance that the new PCB was bad, I returned it and got a new one shipped to me. So after two salt cells, and multiple PCB replacements, and four water tests at three different stores (all at 3100) I am at a loss. Any ideas on what the problem is and how to fix it? At this point, I am ready to return everything and just use liquid chlorine and Cal Hypo to manage my water.
 
Last edited:

C0d3Sp4c3

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2018
101
NorCal
So you have a generic controller board. Sorry, but my experience is limited to Hayward OEM swcg only.
For Aquarite, the recommended salt level is between 2700-3400 ppm. A partial drain and refill should fix it. Let's see what others have to say.
 

setsailsoon

Gold Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
Oct 25, 2015
3,382
Stuart/FL
sac,

Something's definitely not right here. Pool store tests are notoriously unreliable, so are cell readings. No idea how 3rd party boards and cells affect all this. If it were me I'd buy the $20 K-1766 test kit before I scrapped everything. It's a proven reliable test that's super easy to use. I've done repeatability test myself and it is perfect for me. @ajw22 knows a lot about this stuff. Let's see if he can help.

Chris
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
19,678
Northern NJ
It sounds like @sac11550 has a generic board with a generic cell. It is a Hayward Aquarite system in label only and seems to behave differently.

The misreading of salinity is caused the board setting not matching the actual cell type. I don’t know what the proper setting is for non-Hayward stuff.

Post pics of the board and cell and maybe someone can identify it.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
20,692
The amps are reading 7.84. At 8.0 amps, the high salt light comes on.

The salinity is probably what is displayed on the box.

Get a K-1766 salt test kit.

You need to lower the salinity until the amps stay below 8.0.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
20,692
Note that salinity tests are not very accurate.

The actual salinity is probably somewhere between both readings.

In any case, the only thing you need to focus on is the amperage.

Get a K-1766 salt test kit, but go by the amperage to determine the correct salt level.

As long as you keep the amperage below 8.0 and the salinity reading above 2,700 ppm, you're good.

If you have a heater, you will need to lower the salinity more because the amps go up when the heater is on.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
19,678
Northern NJ
I suspect your cell is depleted.
  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
 

sac11550

Member
Oct 16, 2010
18
Rocklin, California
Update. As a test, I put the OEM board back in and tried it with the newest salt cell; for an hour or so everything looked great. The generating light was on and the following was on the display: 3500, 85, 25.2, 6.92, 51p, -3400, AL-0, R 1.40.

Then after an hour, I had the following on my display: 3600, 88, 32.1, 0.0, 51p, -0, AL-0, R 1.40.
Do I have to use an Aqua Rite Goldline Turbo T15 with the OEM board? I was told a T15 is a T15 regardless of the software version. Again, I am at a loss on what to do next. Thanks!
 
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ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
19,678
Northern NJ
Update. As a test, I put the OEM board back in and for an hour or so everything looked great. The generating light was on and the following was on the display: 3500, 85, 25.2, 6.92, 51p, -3400, AL-0, R 1.40.

Then after an hour, I had the following on my display: 3600, 88, 32.1, 0.0, 51p, -0, AL-0, R 1.40.
Your Aquarite has a 120 minute cycle time. You have it set for 51%. It will generate for 60 minutes and be idle for 60 minutes. I suspect when you looked at the second set of readings it was during the idle time.
 
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sac11550

Member
Oct 16, 2010
18
Rocklin, California
AJW22... Thanks for the info. I am learning a lot from you all. Okay, so I just went out and cranked up the output, heard a click, and then got the following readings: 3500, 87, 24.6, 7.23, 90p, -3600 (still high though), R 1.40 and the generating light is on. Despite being 200 over the 3400 there is no high salt light, yet.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
19,678
Northern NJ
You will not get the high salt light until its calculated salt is high enough to draw over 8.0 amps. In your last run you were 7.23 amps.