Goldline Aqua Rite Check Salt Light and Inspect Cell

socalsharky

Bronze Supporter
Apr 27, 2009
38
I posted some info regarding troubleshooting my SWCG yesterday, but mistakenly inserted it into a previous thread. It was unclear and confusing, so I created a new thread.

Having some issues with my Aqua Rite. The control box is about 15 years old, the T-15 cell about 4.5 years old. Working well until last week. Salt level in pool is 3000 - 3500. When I first turn on the SWCG, I get the power light and the generating light, both green. After a minute or so, I get a red "check salt" light and an amber "inspect cell" light. I just did a full clean and descale on the cell. Here are the readings:


Cell Off Cell Off for one minute
Then Auto
18001800
8383
30.8 24.4 (lots of fluctuations)
0.004.18 lots of fluctuations)
98P98P
-0 -2100
Al -0Al -0
r1.33 r1.33

About 30 seconds to one minute after turning the switch to auto, the readings revert to the Cell off readings noted above. Also if I go auto->off->auto without waiting, the readings are basically unchanged

Cell S/N: 3E15085-202930
Box S/N: 5A0411-1000069*

The salt level was tested at Leslies in early June and was 3,646. I have not had it tested since, but have not added salt or drained the pool. I would expect it to be around 3,500.
I had to replace the thermistor about 6 or 7 years ago, but I can't recall the exact symptoms. Is this another failed thermistor, or possibly the cell? Thanks!
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
19,758
Northern NJ
How is this different then what was discussed in....


Your cell is likely depleted but you can try replacing the thermistor since you say you have lots of fluctuations.
 
Last edited:

socalsharky

Bronze Supporter
Apr 27, 2009
38
How is this different then what was discussed in....


Your cell is likely depleted but you can try replacing the thermistor since you say you have lots of fluctuations.
Not different. I was just unsure whether you were replying to me or the OP. I posted there erroneously. Thanks for the clarification.

Could the thermistor be causing the fluctuations? I haven't seen that behavior when past cells failed.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
19,758
Northern NJ
Like you have been told a few times, replace the thermistor if you want to try a cheap fix first but it looks like that cell is depleted. You may have both problems.
 

socalsharky

Bronze Supporter
Apr 27, 2009
38
I replaced the cell a few days ago, but the indicator lights are still there: Steady red "check salt" and steady amber "inspect cell". Based on the Hayward troubleshooting guide, I thought it might be high salt--I got the Taylor kit and tested it at 3600 +/- ppm. So I did a partial drain and refill to get it down to 3200 ppm. Same problem. Here are the diagnostics:

300
83
30.3
0.00
53P
-0
Al-0
r1.33

I guess it's time to replace the thermistor? I have also noticed a hot smell near the control box when the chlorinator is on.
 

chlorinatorpro

In The Industry
Feb 16, 2016
104
CA
Try checking the rectangular relays just below the display board. You may have a cold solder break. Dab a bead of solder on each point. I have had a rash of calls lately on a similar issue affecting r1.40 and earlier boards. However in all cases, it's been 0000 ppm salt and 0 amps and cells have been less than two years old. You are showing 300 ppm salt. However it's worth a shot in my opinion. Let us know if that works.
 

socalsharky

Bronze Supporter
Apr 27, 2009
38
Try checking the rectangular relays just below the display board. You may have a cold solder break. Dab a bead of solder on each point. I have had a rash of calls lately on a similar issue affecting r1.40 and earlier boards. However in all cases, it's been 0000 ppm salt and 0 amps and cells have been less than two years old. You are showing 300 ppm salt. However it's worth a shot in my opinion. Let us know if that works.
Thanks for the advice. It turns out that one of the relays you mention apparently overheated, and fried the back of the main PCB. I went ahead and replaced the board, and got a new cell from Dan at ChlorinatorPro. Dan was very helpful, and even came to my house and did some troubleshooting.

I tried the old cell after replacing the board, but the SWCG was getting a salt reading only about 60% of the true salt level. After replacing the cell, all seems to be working well now.

Could this board have been easily repaired? I am sure that the relay could be replaced, but the back of the board is pretty fried.
AquatRite.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: chlorinatorpro

chlorinatorpro

In The Industry
Feb 16, 2016
104
CA
Glad the new board worked out and you are up and running.

I've encountered about a dozen cases in the past three months where the AquaRite K2 relay has overheated and burned out. All of them have occurred on boards r1.40 and earlier. Practically all customers have reported a burning smell in the week before the failure. Not all customers had new cells, some had for two or three years. Starting to sound like a trend is developing.