Going BACK to SWG - any cell options w/EasyTouch 8 automation other than IntelliChlor

[tclayton10]

Pool when built in 2006 had an IC40 SWG, but after the warranty ran out, it started acting up and seemed to always read low salt and rarely could I get any measurable chlorine readings, even when taking samples directly from a pool return with the cell in superchlorinate mode. I acid cleaned the cell several times (with visible bubbling only the first time) and eventually replaced the flow switch (per a non-TFP forum recommendation), but I just could not get enough chlorine (FC or TC) into the pool, so I ended up adding a floating tablet feeder about 6 years ago, and I totally removed the cell about 3 years ago and put in a Rainbow tablet feeder. I realize after reading some of the entries in this forum that I likely wasn't shocking appropriately, and it is entirely possible that I had a bad cell, so I'm thinking I made a bad choice when I removed the original SWG.

Anyway, I'm tired of pucks and the high CYA that result, so I am seriously considering going back to a SWG. Given that I have EasyTouch 8 automation (which has the really old circuit board that can't be flash programmed - a post for another day and forum), should I stick with an IC40, go larger to an IC60, or look at other manufacturers and lose the integration with my automation? As an additional FYI, this pool has zero shade, so the water temp sits between 90-95 degrees from mid-June (i.e. now) until late September, which I know directly impacts FC levels.. I'm working on a partial shade solution for the pool that should drop the water temp into the high 80's - mid 90's range, but that won't be complete for a few more weeks.

So I look to the experts here for your advice and guidance. I can do any necessary plumbing and electrical changes required at the pad myself, so no worries with professional installation costs or with more complex DIY solutions.

Tracy C

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
As your ET8 has the IC power supply in it the easiest is to get a replacement cell (you will need the unions you removed) and install an Intellichlor. The size depends on your pool volume, which you do not show. A signature would include that if you could please add one.

Most suspected SWCG failures are from poor water chemistry. What test kit do you use to manage your pool water chemistry?

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.

 

[tclayton10]

Thanks for the quick reply Marty! I added my pool info to my profile, but put it in the wrong spot. Hopefully it's there now. I have an 18K gal IG Pebbletech pool with integrated spa. I've been using the Taylor K-2006 FAS-DPD test kit for the past few years, but I don't think I was using a DPD kit when I still had the cell inline. I have no issue going back to an Intellichlor cell; I just wanted to make sure there weren't any better options out there, or if I should move from an IC40 (2x pool size) to an IC 60 (3x pool size). I may still have the original IC40 cell; if so, is there any accurate way to test it before reinstalling it?

One other reason I removed the cell is that we were getting significant erosion of our flagstone, which we had been told was from the salt in the pool, so it felt like a good excuse at the time to scrap the SWG. But I've read enough on that topic the past year or so that I'm doubtful of that being the reason behind the erosion, even though I can say that I haven't seen any erosion since removing the cell. But maybe that was also an indication of poor water chemistry while the SWG was inline.

I've been through both of the links you mentioned in your reply above and have found them invaluable resources, especially after moving from pool store gimmicks to trying to follow the TFP suggestions over the past year or so.

 

[mknauss]

If you have the original cell you could install it as we have some diagnostics that can be run to check it. You will need the unions you cut off, and they are Pentair proprietary unions.
I would think an IC40 is sufficient as you have a VS pump and running it 12+ hours per day should not be an issue.

Flagstone erosion is primarily based on the quality of the stone.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Tracy,

If your EasyTouch has the built in SWCG transformer, all you will need to do is plug the cell into the bottom of the ET and then install the cell. If you actually removed the unions, you will need to buy new ones.. the good news is that a replacement cell has a two year warranty even if you DIY install.

Here is a link to the IC40 unions if you need them.. Amazon.com: Pentair 520595 Union Replacement Pool/Spa Sanitizer and Automation Control Systems: Gateway

I have a 17K pool and an IC40.. It works fine in the DFW area..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[tclayton10]

Thanks for the replies guys. I think I still have the unions, but thanks for the link to the replacements just in case. I'm also relieved to hear that my original cell issues were likely self-inflicted and that my flagstone erosion was just from cheap stone.