Glacier Chiller Plumbing

texantoasted

Silver Supporter
Dec 20, 2020
51
League City, TX
Pool Size
14000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hey all, looking for feedback on how the chiller's outlet should be plumbed.

I had a glacier chiller installed during the build of my pool recently. The PB plumbed the Chiller outlet port in front of the SWG, thus using the IFCS as the return back to the pool. The PB decided not to run a dedicated line back to the pool from the chiller (as the manual says for new pool installation) because the pool would chill faster using the IFCS.

I contacted Glacier because of a different issue, and they asked how the PB installed the chiller. They came back saying the outlet port should be plumbed in front of the main pump. I brought this up to the PB, and the PB pushed back on the Glaciers recommendation. I was able to get the PB and Glacier on the phone together. Glacier convinced the PB that the outlet should be plumbed in front of the pump because the pump in the chiller doesn't have enough power to get the water back to the pool.

The PB is supposed to come back to change the install based on Glacier's recommendations. This includes:
  • Adding two ball valves (one close to the inlet and one close to the outlet of the chiller)
  • Move the outlet from in front of the SWG to the main pump.
    • Add a three-way valve (I'll add an actuator later for automation) where the new T is in front of the main pump.
I drew up a layout of the current plumbing and the proposed changes to help me understand it. I am at a crossroad. I now understand the PB's point of view at the beginning on why it didn't make sense to plumb the outlet in front of the pump. He said it would create a loop, and the water wouldn't make it back to the pool. I'm not sure what Glacier said to convince him otherwise, but now I don't see how the water can make it back to the pool if the outlet is plumbed in front of the pump.

I am hoping those with a Glacier Chiller (or more experience than me, doesn't take much : ) can help shed some light on the plumbing.

If it helps, I will have the chiller automated with an IntelliCenter



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Chiller Current.jpg



Chiller Proposed.jpg
 

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Sorry, I can't help you with the discussion between your PB and Glacier support. I can give you my experience. I had a glacier chiller installed during my owner build. I contracted with plumbers to install it and handed them the installation instructions. I guess they considered their knowledge of pool plumbing and how it should work more the instructions provided. The chiller outlet has a check valve and is then plumbed to the pool return header. The chiller's pump has enough oomph to push the water past the check valve and on to the pool return header. When I was using the chiller over the summer, as the chiller basin filled with water and the chiller's pump started, I would swim over to the returns and could feel the drastically cooler water at each of the returns.

edit: In my build thread, see my signature, post #19 shows the chiller plumbing.
 
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That's the approach my PB took as well. I handed them the instruction manual and they pretty much sat it to the side and said they've done this before.

I was looking at your layout, but couldn't tell if your chiller plumbed in front of the SWG or after?

@Bvacchiano How is your chiller plumbed? I know it depends on the use case (automation, non-automation, etc...), but curious if it has a dedicated line back to the pool, T'd into the return lines, or T'd in front of the pump. Do you have the chilled water going through the SWG?
 
That's the approach my PB took as well. I handed them the instruction manual and they pretty much sat it to the side and said they've done this before.

I was looking at your layout, but couldn't tell if your chiller plumbed in front of the SWG or after?

@Bvacchiano How is your chiller plumbed? I know it depends on the use case (automation, non-automation, etc...), but curious if it has a dedicated line back to the pool, T'd into the return lines, or T'd in front of the pump. Do you have the chilled water going through the SWG?
A342EFEA-BEF8-4CEC-88E0-22BE2234F8EB.jpeg
Man I’m not entirely sure. My Chiller was installed 5 months after the build. The valve at the far right does rotate when the Chiller is turned on. I didn’t watch them install it so I’m not sure.
 
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I put my chiller in several months after I put the pool in. I had plenty of returns and all on home runs to the pump pad so I used one of those for a dedicated return for the chiller.

I think what Glacier was trying to point out with your current install is that the return location being on the "pressure" side of your pump. Your pool pump will have more power/pressure than the pump in the basin of the Glacier that sends water from the chiller to the pool. So if you use it in it's current configuration, and assuming you have a check valve in the line from the chiller return line...the pool pump will generate more pressure than the chiller return pump and keep the check valve in the chiller return line closed or mostly closed not allowing any or good flow of water back to the pool from the chiller. If you send the water from the chiller back to the intake of the pump...that line has suction pressure...so when the pump in the chiller's basin kicks on it will empty out the basin easily.

Have you used it in it's current configuration? If my assumption above is correct I would think the chiller basin would overflow.

You said "but now I don't see how the water can make it back to the pool if the outlet is plumbed in front of the pump". The water from the chiller will be pumped into the intake water from the pool and some of it will go back through the chiller and some of it will go out the returns. The water supply to feed the chiller is not a "all or nothing" solution. When the chiller is in operation a valve should divert "some" of the water headed to the pools returns towards the intake of the chiller, the majority of the water from the filter will go out the returns with only a small percentage going to the chiller supply line.

You can see my pool build here:

The Chiller install starts here:

Either way your builder should be scolded for not running a dedicated line at the time of the build if he knew or even reasonably knew you were putting in a chiller. He should have also ran a dedicated line for a pool vac even if you planned on using a robot....just my .02
 
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... The water from the chiller will be pumped into the intake water from the pool and some of it will go back through the chiller and some of it will go out the returns. The water supply to feed the chiller is not a "all or nothing" solution. When the chiller is in operation a valve should divert "some" of the water headed to the pools returns towards the intake of the chiller, the majority of the water from the filter will go out the returns with only a small percentage going to the chiller supply line.

This hits the nail on the head! Now I see how the water will flow. Thanks very much for the explanation.

Looking back at your build, I noticed another member (@Jeff McGuire) is pretty much in the same boat as me with the suction side plumbing and in floor returns. I noticed he hasn't been online since August, but I'll ping him and see if he can shed any feedback on his install.

Interesting how you have the overflow piped. I'll need to a take a page (or a couple) out of your book.

Either way your builder should be scolded for not running a dedicated line at the time of the build if he knew or even reasonably knew you were putting in a chiller. He should have also ran a dedicated line for a pool vac even if you planned on using a robot....just my .02

Agree as well. He did run a line for a pressure side cleaner, but we are using that for something else.
 
Interesting how you have the overflow piped. I'll need to a take a page (or a couple) out of your book.

It may be just my chiller...but the overflow fitting was low enough that you could get some water to "trickle" out of the overflow when the basin was close to full. The water in the basin is pretty agitated with all the dripping and air moving around. I turned the overflow fitting out and up and that stopped the "trickle" but will still allow it to overflow if the basin ever does indeed fill up. I don't think I even glued them in place...just pressed together. I chose since mine is outside not to bury the overflow drain out and away like I did my backwash pipe. If there is some problem...I will come more near noticing it if the pad around the chiller is wet rather than some water running out of a pipe in the edge of the woods.

I think you are armed with enough knowledge to get yours plumbed and running. You will really enjoy it when July/August roll around, they are a lifesaver when the water temp starts to turn into bathwater!
 
I'm in a very similar situation. I asked my PB to install a Glacier chiller. He said no problem. When the time came, I handed the manual to the plumber and he didn't plumb the outlet for either method described in the manual. I have three return pipes. One is the bubbler and the other two pipes alternate between return jets in the pool. He plumbed with check valve to one set of return jets. When the chiller basin pump is on, the water is significantly cooler out of those return jets. Also, you can see a gush of water going out. I've asked for an automated valve in the circle in the picture, but I'm manually turning it on now. I just emailed glacier, but this method doesn't follow their manual
 

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I called them, I left them a voicemail and I had a guy call me back. Seems like it was all the same day.
 

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When I call the number in my manual, it deflects from using phone. It says to contact email for support or your local dealer. I couldn't find a way to contact someone via voice or voicemail. I'm calling (480)272-7700. Do you have another number?
 
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