Fulshear, Texas - Complete!

[HermanTX]

Should we test our water prior to fill? I am unsure if our hose bib is supplied by softened water... would I be able to tell from testing the water? Should I just plan on bypassing the water softener before we fill just to be on the safe side?

I would test several taps to assess your situation with a water softener. For example, my water softener is tied to my internal water supply as well as to my 3 external water bibs. So my fill water is softened. I have one other tap that is on the pipe going into the softener. I can connect a hose to that to fill my pool with non-softened water.

So my suggestion, is to test your internal tap at the kitchen and bathroom, test 1 or all your external bibs and then determine if you have a tap prior to your water softener and test that. It would be best to do your initial fill with the non-softened water because your water softener will regenerate after 3000 (or so) gallons. So you would not have softened water going to your internal water supply during this regen process. This is why most water softeners are set up to regen at 2am or so in the morning when your internal water demand is near zero.

You need to test for CH on all, you can also test for TA and FC. Your FC should be 1ppm or less. Your CH for internal taps should be zero if your water softener is working properly. Any external tap that matches to your internal taps is then also connected to the water softener.

Hope this helps.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

With a new fill, you have the rare opportunity to use your water meter to calculate your pool's volume. Take a photo of your water meter before and after. It will make things easier in the future when adding chemicals.

 

[HermanTX]

@.ben
@Rancho Cost-a-Lotta reminded me of my list of things to do for day of plaster. Hope this helps you.

• Clean up around the pool area the day before - brush any dirt/mud or debris that could be tracked into the pool during or after plaster
• Verify that the bags of plaster are the proper type and color you selected on morning of plaster.
• Take a sample of the mixture when they are applying it to the pool by pouring some in a small clear plastic cup (good for reference later)
• Do they have all the proper return nozzles and drain covers (type and color) to place after plaster installed
• Have you tested your fill water? Are you filling with softened water or regular tap water?
• Have your hose ready (and clean) as it will be laying in the pool.
• Tie a sock or cloth around the nozzle so it does not sit on the plaster. Also, consider tying a plastic jug to the nozzle such that it will float up as the water rises.
• Ensure you take note (or a picture) of your water meter reading before you start to fill
• Be prepared to take note of your water meter as the pool reaches certain levels, i.e bottom of bottom step, top of bottom step, etc. (it helps in the future to know volume of your pool at certain levels - should you ever have to drain portion of it)
• Plan to set an alarm every 4 hours (or so) to ensure hose is still in pool, no debris blew into pool, etc.
• Take a picture of any chemicals they bring on site that they plan to dump in when they start to add water to pool
• Continue to fill pool to center of water tile or center of skimmer. Take picture of water meter at end of fill
• Get clear instructions from PB as what to do the day the pool is full - how often to brush, will the pump be turned on, etc.
• Define with PB when he will be back out to set up water chemistry.

 

[.ben]

Thank you everyone for the great advice! Have not had a chance to update until now.

Plaster (Pebble Sheen Slate Blue) was installed on time. Acid wash the following day and the pool filled immediately after. Took over 2 days to fill.

• Pool volume based on water meter reading is about 17,000 gal.
• Slate Blue is awesome in both sunny and cloudy conditions!
  • Love the simmering sea shells. PB said they included extra shells beyond what is typically provided with Slate Blue. There is definitely a good amount of sparkle
  • We wish the color was a tad darker on sunny days, but I feel we made the correct decision.
• Still waiting for SWCG install, but we are still in the 4 week startup where we have to use liquid chlorine, so not in a big rush
  • PB is managing chemistry
• Sod and Life Saver Pool Fence recently installed
• Firepit complete
• We are getting tired of brushing lol, but trying to keep up.
  • Wall Whale Brush and Aqua EZ pole are recommended
• We removed the suction cleaner and plumbing from original contract but they installed the suction port anyway . I don't mind having a back up vacuum in case my robot is down for repairs.

Bad news.... somehow a TON of glass tile around the spa rolled edge and spillover got scratched really bad. Unsure who was responsible but PB stated they will replace the damaged tile. We loved workmanship of the tile, so we are really hoping the re-install we be just as good. The scratches are quite noticeable in person.

 

[Newdude]

to everything but the damaged tile.

That they are handling it.

She is a BEAUT .Ben!!!!!! WELL done.

 

[.ben]

The scratched tile has been replaced and the sunshelf light installed over the last couple of weeks. We completed "pool school" today and took over the pool

Test Results from TF-100

FC 0.5
CC 0
CYA 0-20?
TA 280
CH 125
PH off the charts high
Salt 2600 (Omnilogic reads 2813)

I'm surprised that CYA is under 20 (I'm assuming if I saw no change to the black dot that means CYA is very low or zero) Last week my FC was 3.5, I am assuming I've got low FC because my CYA is almost non-existant? Salt cell is currently set at 50% and my pump is scheduled to run 24 hrs (5 hrs 85%, 7 hrs 65%, 12 hrs 36%)

My plan is to attack CYA first. If I assume 10 CYA in pool math it says I need 7 lb of dry stabilizer. I'm thinking to add 5 lbs at first to see where that gets me. I need to purchase this tomorrow.

Should I also add more salt? If I assume Omnilogic number of 2800, 40 lb bag will get me to 3100.

Do I need to increase my cell % to get my FC higher faster?

My PH is obviously high but my PH added "a bunch" of muratic acid earlier in the day so I plan to re-check tomorrow.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Pool looks great...

How did you get a result of 28 for TA?

How are you testing salt level? TFP recommends the Taylor K-1766. It will last a few years, so worth the investment.

Has any CYA (chlorine stabilizer) been added to the pool? FC will drop quick with low levels of CYA. Use the "sock method" to add enough CYA to get into recommended SWG range.

To increase FC levels quickly, use liquid chlorine. Your SWG is great at maintaining FC levels, but don't rely on it increase FC quickly.

 

[.ben]

TA is actually 280. I edited my post. I know CYA was not added in the last few days. CYA levels were OK according to a test strip the PB had.

For salt level I used TF-Pro with SWG

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Running you SWG at 50% for 24 hours should increase FC by 5ppm daily. Your daily FC loss this time of year should be no more than 2-3ppm. There should be no reason to increase SWG input. Bring your FC level up using liquid chlorine and use SWG to maintain that level.

Your plan to increase CYA sounds good. It may take some time. Try using multiple socks (or nylons) with about one-pound each of CYA. Lots of massaging and squeezing will accelerate the process.

Keep working on pH. Assume a pH of 8.2 and add enough to decrease pH to 7.4. Continue this process until the test shows results. Your TA will come down a bit each time you add MA.

Add enough salt to get to your SWG's minimum level. TURN OFF SWG for 8-10 hours after adding salt. You don't want high saline levels running through the SWG.

TA of 280 is pretty high. You might want to test your fill water to give you idea of how your TA and CH will be effected by top-offs.

 

[.ben]

I’ll add bleach to my shopping list. I plan to test pH daily and add MA as required to get pH under control.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I’ll add bleach to my shopping list. I plan to test pH daily and add MA as required to get pH under control.

With the pump running, MA mixes pretty quickly. You can test and adjust a few times per day to get pH under control.