Flocculent Question

[CMB04]

Hey folks!

Question about adding a flocculant during SLAM. Currently on day 14 of my annual pool opening SLAM (maybe one day I’ll take better care of the pool during the winter). This has been one of the toughest I’ve ever done due to the high amount of algae and organic matter in the pool, but we are slowly getting there. My chlorine additions have been less and less each day and I’m noticing small changes in water clarity. Today is the first day I can make out the vacuum head on the bottom of the shallow end and the water color has been at an aqua blue for the past week. I have a sand filter and have added a little bit of D.E. In between backwashes but I’m hoping to speed things up to be able to swim this weekend. Also, my pool is a dinosaur and does not have a main drain, all flow comes through the skimmer, which obviously takes longer to cycle.

Can I add a flocculant during the slam, while also keeping the FC at shock levels?

Here’s my last readings before I added more chlorine to get it back to SLAM level a little bit ago

FC 11.5
CC 0.25
pH 7.2
TA 90
CH 170
CYA 40

My OCLT has been zero for the past 5 days

 

[splashpad]

Can I add a flocculant during the slam, while also keeping the FC at shock levels?

That short answer is no, because the high FC will have to breakdown the FLOC.
If you stick with the SLAM Process steps and don't skip any, it does work and fairly quickly (not days quickly, depending on level of 'green', but without filter damaging chemicals!)!

 

[mknauss]

Floc and clarifiers are not recommended by TFP for use.

Stay at the SLAM. Sand filters take a bit longer to clear.

 

[CMB04]

Thanks all.

 

[dunginhawk]

Marty, I know TFP doesnt recommend flocs or clarifiers... my question is IF we get a cloudy hot tub or pool I havent found that bleach/ FC alone can clear it up... Should it be able to? Thank you for the help.

 

[Richard320]

Take a look at some of these threads. They did it without floc or clarifiers.

You can leave the vacuum head connected and flip it on its back or side to function as a main drain if you think the pool would benefit from lower circulation. You could also try pointing the returns down to keep things stirred up down deep. Unless the stuff makes its way to the skimmer, it can't get filtered out, so anything you can do to keep it suspended or to grab it where it is will only help.

Flocculant needs to be vacuumed to waste, or it'll gum up the sand. You'll lose a bunch of water. Clarifiers will bind the sand into clods. That's what it is designed to do: glue particles together. So if you use either, you're just asking to replace the sand.

 

[CMB04]

Take a look at some of these threads. They did it without floc or clarifiers.

You can leave the vacuum head connected and flip it on its back or side to function as a main drain if you think the pool would benefit from lower circulation. You could also try pointing the returns down to keep things stirred up down deep. Unless the stuff makes its way to the skimmer, it can't get filtered out, so anything you can do to keep it suspended or to grab it where it is will only help.

Flocculant needs to be vacuumed to waste, or it'll gum up the sand. You'll lose a bunch of water. Clarifiers will bind the sand into clods. That's what it is designed to do: glue particles together. So if you use either, you're just asking to replace the sand.

Thanks Richard - was getting ready to ask about the vacuum trick. Started that this morning.

 

[Casey]

If there is still leafy debris and organic matter in the pool, it will take longer to SLAM. Instead of floc'ing the pool, you should vacuum all that organic debris off the bottom of the pool to waste. Brush the daylights out of the floor and walls and once it settles... vacuum to waste. Repeat! Repeat! Repeat! You should do this until you can visibly make out the vacuum head in the deepest part of the pool all while staying at SLAM levels.