Flocculant! Never again!

EuropeanPool

Member
Aug 7, 2020
12
Iasi, Romania
Well, thank you for all the infos you people post here ...

What can I tell you ... I have an in-ground pool, here in Eastern Europe. The people that build it, the company, told me to use on a weekly basis flocculant (with filtering system on), alongside antialgae, granulat chlorine and ph minus (the last two with a test). Besides these, to always have a multifunctional tablet in the skimmer.

No wonder my filtering system turns back water with no pressure in the pool - the flocculant is going in the filter and its effect. Tomorrow I will backwash it again and I will not ever use flocculant. I just hope that it didn’t ruin my filter.

1.) You think it ruined my filter? Until now, after a backwash, the filtering system works fine for like 3-4 days and after, I have no pressure on the water coming back to my pool.

2.) I should shock weekly, right?

3.) What should I do first, after a test? The shock or the PH minus? Or viceversa? And how long should I wait between the shock and the PH minus?

4.) My water looks just fine and crystal clear even if I make a shock and I add the PH minus once at every 2-3 weeks. In the weeks when I don’t do the shock, should I use the antialge? Since I don’t do the shock?

Thank you in advance.
 

EuropeanPool

Member
Aug 7, 2020
12
Iasi, Romania
And 5.) ... when I backwash, once a week, if my filter is not ruined (what are the chances? how it worked for people that used deloc with filtering on?) should I do one single cycle of backwash + rinse, or more cicles at the same time? Like 5 x backwash + rinse?

BTW -my filter is sand, an Emaux.
 

mgtfp

Bronze Supporter
Mar 5, 2020
770
Melbourne, Australia
Pool Size
66000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Astral VX 7T
Welcome to TFP!

Stay away from flocculants. They are a last resort if nothing else helps. When used, the gunk that settles to the bottom of the pool needs to get vacuumed to waste, not through the filter. Clarifiers (also stay away from them) are designed to be run through the filter, and then to be removed via backwashing. Are you sure your pool builder told you to use flocculant, not clarifier? Just to be clear, we don't recommend either of them, but the advice to use flocculant on a weekly basis and run it through the filter is a little unusual, even from so-called pool professionals...

Best thing to do, is to open up your filer and give it a deep clean:

If chlorine levels are maintained according to to the FC/CYA chart, then ideally you'll never have to "shock" your pool:

"Shocking", we actually call it SLAM (Shock Level And Maintain) here, is only required to fight an algae bloom after allowing chlorine to drop too low.

TFP's philosophy is to get a good quality test kit rather than relying on pool store testing or test strips ("guess" strips). This can be a bit tricky in Europe sometimes. This article here mentions some sources outside the US:

The best starting point is probably to go through the pool school articles:


Summary to get started:
  • Go through the Pool School articles
  • Stay away from flocculant and clarifier
  • Stay away from algaecides (especially copper based ones - copper can create nasty stains on your pool bottom and side surfaces, and is also responsible for turning blond hair green)
  • Be careful with these multifunctional tabs. They can raise your stabilizer (CYA) level way beyond required levels, making your chlorine ineffective, if used without care. They also sometimes contain copper based algaecides.
  • Use liquid chlorine or a Salt Water Chlorinator. Chlorine (at the right level according the FC/CYA chart) is all your pool needs to keep it sanitized and free from algae.
  • Get a test kit (see above) and test your water yourself and stick to the TFP recommended levels for your water parameters:
  • Best way to lower pH is muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid, HCl)
  • Weekly backwashing is usually just a waste of water, it is only required once your filter pressure has increased 25% above the "clean" pressure. But first try to get the flucculant gunk out by deep cleaning.
 
Last edited:

Newdude

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 16, 2019
6,177
NY
Hey EP !!! Markus above me hit a grand slam with the info above........ wait, Sorry, You are both non-Americans ....... He kicked a sudden death overtime goal to win the World Cup. He shot. He scored. There is a celebration on the field. All that’s left to do is welcome you to TFP. So, Welcome !!
 
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EuropeanPool

Member
Aug 7, 2020
12
Iasi, Romania
They also told me to keep evacuation closed when I perform a backwash, when it is on backwash and to open the evacuation only when I go with rinse. From what I see now, everywhere, the evacuation must be opened on both actions, backwash and rinse, correct?
 

EuropeanPool

Member
Aug 7, 2020
12
Iasi, Romania
I appreciate your straight answer.
And I make one single cicle backwash - rinse? Everywhere I look on the Internet I see one cicle at a time.

The company that made my pool were saying to make several cicles on a single round.
 

mgtfp

Bronze Supporter
Mar 5, 2020
770
Melbourne, Australia
Pool Size
66000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Astral VX 7T
You can run two cycles. What you are basically doing is changing the water flow direction back and forth, that helps to loosen some stubborn crud.

 

mgtfp

Bronze Supporter
Mar 5, 2020
770
Melbourne, Australia
Pool Size
66000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Astral VX 7T
One more thing: TFP has developed an App that helps calculating the required amounts of pool chemicals to maintain the target levels of all the important parameters:

 

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