First time using TF-100 test kit thoughts on results

[Paul1231]

I've had a pool company taking care of my pool for the 9 months I've owned it. I'm ready to take over the responsibilities and get rid of them. The pool is an in-ground saltwater pool around 13.5K gallons. I've purchased the TF-100 test kit, salt water test kit, and speed stirrer. I ran the series of test today. I repeated each test multiple times to ensure accuracy. What are your thoughts on these numbers?

TC=2 (FC=2 CC=0)
CYA=? I did the test multiple times. The dot in the tube is never obscured. The water is clear.
CH=100ppm
TA=170
salt water test is 800ppm

The water is clear and there is no algae that I can see.

 

[mknauss]

Great on getting a quality set of test kits.
So the pool is not currently using the Saltwater Chlorine Generator, correct? None will work with a salinity of 800 ppm.

You need to add chlorine and CYA. If you are going to use the SWCG, start with adding 40 ppm worth of CYA/stabilizer/conditioner using the sock method. Maintain FC at 5-7 ppm using liquid chlorine until you sort out the SWCG.

Once the CYA is fully dissolved from the sock, wait 24-48 hours and then test CYA again.

 

[mknauss]

Is this a plaster pool? Please fill out your signature.

 

[Paul1231]

Thanks for the information. I've added some information in my signature. Sorry, I supplied inaccurate information with my test results due to a math error. The salt water test actually is 8000ppm, not 800ppm. It took 40 drops to turn salmon. I redid it today and it took 42 drops, so 8400PPM. I took a sample to Pinch a Penny. Their machine doesn't go above 5000, but it pegged the machine at 5000. So I'm way over on salt. I'm going to drain about 2 feet of water and add fresh water. Odd thing is the control panel shows salt at 3200PPM. I reset the panel and it still shows 3200PPM. I'm getting bad numbers on my panel. The pool guy is going by this and just adding salt. Does this indicate a bad T-Cell?

 

[Flying Tivo]

Did you test with a 10ml sample or 25ml sample? The salt test should be done with 10ml sample. If it is really that high you need to drain way more. It is a direct effect, if you drain 50% of your water you will drain 50% of the salt. So you need at least 65% drain. Dont add any chemicals until you finish draining as not to waste. You can add as soon as you start filling up, mainly liquid bleach and CYA.

 

[duraleigh]

Welcome to the forum

I am not much help on the SWG but I want to emphasize that should not be your focus. You priority should be to add enough CYA to get to 30 ppm and then continue to manually add enough FC to stay between 4-6 ppm. Do that sooner rather than later.

That will keep your pool sanitized, clear and safe and then you can focus on your SWG.

You may have to drain off some water that already contains FC and CYA but don't let that deter you. Get the FC and CYA in your pool.

 

[mknauss]

Does this indicate a bad T-Cell?

What are the diagnostic readings?

What are the first seven characters of the serial number?

I suspect something is wrong with the SWCG control system.

@JamesW can lend us a hand ---

 

[JamesW]

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What are all of the readings from diagnostics?

What is the cell type/size? (T-3,5,9 or 15)

 

[Paul1231]

Did you test with a 10ml sample or 25ml sample? The salt test should be done with 10ml sample. If it is really that high you need to drain way more. It is a direct effect, if you drain 50% of your water you will drain 50% of the salt. So you need at least 65% drain. Dont add any chemicals until you finish draining as not to waste. You can add as soon as you start filling up, mainly liquid bleach and CYA.

I tested with 10ml.

 

[Paul1231]

The cell type is Hayward Turbo Cell T-Cell15. It looks like the serial number is 3E14259 200926. The diagnostic readings are -27.06V -5.09A 78 F 2000PPM instant salt is 2000ppm flow is flow

 

[JamesW]

The cell is more than 5 years old. So, it's likely to be bad.

What are all of the diagnostic readings?

Your salt test result of 800 seems unlikely.

Are you sure that you're doing the test correctly?

When is the last time the salt system was actually working?

Edit- I see that the salinity was actually 8,000. So, the cell is probably bad. You can take it to a shop to be tested if you want to be sure, but it's probably bad.

 

[Paul1231]

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What are all of the readings from diagnostics?

What is the cell type/size? (T-3,5,9 or 15)

The cell type is Hayward Turbo Cell T-Cell15. It looks like the serial number is 3E14259 200926. The diagnostic readings are -27.06V -5.09A 78 F 2000PPM instant salt is 2000ppm flow is flow

 

[JamesW]

It's probably a bad cell.

 

[Paul1231]

The cell is more than 5 years old. So, it's likely to be bad.

What are all of the diagnostic readings?

Your salt test result of 800 seems unlikely.

Are you sure that you're doing the test correctly?

When is the last time the salt system was actually working?

Edit- I see that the salinity was actually 8,000. So, the cell is probably bad. You can take it to a shop to be tested if you want to be sure, but it's probably bad.

Thanks, I'm going to have the cell tested today.
I'm pretty sure I'm doing the test correctly. It's really obvious when the water turns salmon. I"m putting 10ml in the tube, adding one drop of R0630, putting it in the speed stirrer, and then adding a drop of R-0718 as it stirs until it turns salmon color. 40 drops on Sunday and 42 yesterday. I took the sample to pinch a penny and their top reading is 5000, but they confirmed that it was at least 5000.
I'm not sure when this has worked correctly. I've been in the house about 10 months and I've been paying somebody to take care of the pool.
Here's the readings I just got from the diagnostics display
+26.41v +6.73a 78F 2900PPM
instant salt 2900
flow switch flow
cell temp sensor 78F
water sensor 83f
air sensor 81f
main software version 4.45
display software version 3.12

 

[Paul1231]

Thanks, I'm going to have the cell tested today.
I'm pretty sure I'm doing the test correctly. It's really obvious when the water turns salmon. I"m putting 10ml in the tube, adding one drop of R0630, putting it in the speed stirrer, and then adding a drop of R-0718 as it stirs until it turns salmon color. 40 drops on Sunday and 42 yesterday. I took the sample to pinch a penny and their top reading is 5000, but they confirmed that it was at least 5000.
I'm not sure when this has worked correctly. I've been in the house about 10 months and I've been paying somebody to take care of the pool.
Here's the readings I just got from the diagnostics display
+26.41v +6.73a 78F 2900PPM
instant salt 2900
flow switch flow
cell temp sensor 78F
water sensor 83f
air sensor 81f
main software version 4.45
display software version 3.12

Also, when I guy a new cell is a generic one ok or should I stick with the OEM?

 

[JamesW]

I think that the cell is probably bad.

Some people have had good luck with generic and some people haven't.

You save some money, but it's a risk.

Only you can decide if the potential savings are worth the risk.

The cell was made in 2014. So, it's more than 5 years old. Typical life is about 5 to 7 years depending on the usage.

Check the cell for scale and clean if necessary. If the cell is clean, it's probably bad.

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

If the percentage is less than 75%, it's time for a new cell.

 

[Paul1231]

So it turns out my pool guy that was highly recommended on FB has pretty much been dumping in salt and little or nothing else. The water was clear so I didn't question it. But the testing results show it's lacking in almost every category. He's out and I'm taking over. I had my cell tested and it was bad so I've bought a replacement call. I'm now draining the pool about a 12-15 inches a day and then refilling over the course of four days. I don't want to drain much more per day because of the high water table where I am. I'm adding about a gallon of liquid chlorine a day. By this weekend I should have the salt removed and be in a position to start adding the proper chemicals to get this mess straightened out.