First time using TF-100 and PoolMath app

[Lake Harrison]

Hi all,

We installed a pool 2 years ago (May 2018) and have been using a pretty basic test kit along w/ taking water to the pool store... Just received the TF-100 test kit today and am eager to get this water squared away. We live in Atlanta, GA and do not close/winterize the pool but rather leave it open year round and heat the hot tub pretty regularly. Water is very clear but I know my chemistry is all out of whack. We have tons of white streaks on our black pebbletec due to super high pH levels and calcium leaching through. I'm not willing to drain and acid wash the pebble (yet) so we are living with it.

Is there a place on the site where I can find what chemicals should NOT be used together? PoolMath is having us add a lot to normalize the chemistry and I am concerned to add to much at once and mix things that should not be mixed.

I have turned on sharing for our log but here are the #s from the first reading:

FC 1
CC 0.5
CH 275
TA 100
CYA 0 (I filled the tube and could still see the black dot so I am guessing that it is zero)

The daily Taylor test showed the lightest level of chlorine and the highest level of pH.

PoolMath recommendations:
+ 85 oz 6% bleach
+ 61 oz 14.5% Muriatic Acid
+ 33 lbs Calcium Chloride (or + 44 lbs Calcium Chloride Dihydrate)
+ 529 oz liquid stabilizer (is this pool store only or is there a household product to use)

Thank you in advance! I have read everything in Pool School but likely need to read it a few more times...
Meghan

 

[kimkats]

Hi and welcome Meghan! Funny you should ask about this........I have this kind of article sitting in my que to do. Guess I better get on it!

Until I do get it done I will tell you the only two things you can NOT add at the same time is chlorine and muriatic acid. They do NOT play well together. You should wait about 15 mins between the two. Everything else can be added when you want.

For the CYA put it in a sock (like you wear) and hang it right in front of the return. You can get POWDER CYA from Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Now if your wallet is fat enough you can get the liquid cya but it is a LOT more expensive than the powder.

 

[pinguy]

Hey there,

A general rule of thumb is to adjust 1 thing at a time, waiting at least 15 minutes for things to circulate before retesting or adding more chemicals.

Don't add any calcium.

First adjust the pH to around 7.6. Add the calculated amount of Muriatic acid, and wait about 20-30 minutes and retest.

Next, add 70ppm CYA. You can get this from a pool store, or Walmart/Home depot. It's often labeled as Chlorine Stabilizer. It comes in granular form and takes a while to dissolve, so we usually recommend putting it in a sock or pillow case, and hanging near a return.

Now for the Chlorine, I see you have a SWG. Have you tested salt levels, or added any salt? You should get the Taylor K-1466 salt test if possible.

With 70ppm CYA, you want to keep the Chlorine level to about 5ppm (see FC/CYA Chart) by adjusting pump run time and or SWG output.

 

[Lake Harrison]

Now for the Chlorine, I see you have a SWG. Have you tested salt levels, or added any salt? You should get the Taylor K-1466 salt test if possible.


Yes! Sorry I should have mentioned the salt. The iAquaLink provides the salt reading so I didn’t buy a test kit for salt: 3800 ppm.

The chlorine was low so we added 80# salt and one scoop of shock 2 days ago. Also changed the aquapure from 50% to 70%

 

[pinguy]

Now for the Chlorine, I see you have a SWG. Have you tested salt levels, or added any salt? You should get the Taylor K-1466 salt test if possible.


Yes! Sorry I should have mentioned the salt. The iAquaLink provides the salt reading so I didn’t buy a test kit for salt: 3800 ppm.

The chlorine was low so we added 80# salt and one scoop of shock 2 days ago. Also changed the aquapure from 50% to 70%

Your FC level is probably low, because with 0 CYA the sun just burns most FC up.

I'd add the CYA and then see if your pump run time or Aquapure needs adjustment,