First time testing (used TF-100 kit)

[poolhokie]

Hi folks,

This is the first time I have tested pool water and I'm a first time pool owner too. I got the TF-100 shipped super fast (Thanks Rebecca) and it was fun to use - especially with my Speed Stir!
This is with zero bather load and being under a solar cover for about a week. Water temps are around 68F and I took the sample from +18" deep away from any returns.

(edited and reordered - thanks Jimrahbe)

FC = 7.5 ppm
CC = 0.5 ppm
pH = 7.8
TA = 170
CH = 150 ppm
CYA = 80 ppm
Salt = not tested yet but SWGC is green/happy

I see that my TA is a little high, Ca a little low, and my FC is a bit high. I have the SWGC set at 20% (default I believe) so I might lower it a bit.
The rest, I've got to learn a bit but don't see a reason for alarm.
For now, should I be concerned about anything you see?

 

[Jimrahbe]

ph,

I don't see anything that I would change..

Do us a favor and report your findings in this order.. It helps as we read a bazillion of them a day...

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt

No need to show or even do the OTO tests or TC.

I would not worry about TA at all as long as your pH is OK.

I run my FC at about 7.5 all the time, so I don't see it as "high" at all. Keeping your FC at your target or higher is fine.

And yes, the speed-stir almost makes testing fun.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Removing the cover occasionally will likely allow the CC to burn off. Testing the TA of your fill water may explain the higher level.

Good job!

 

[duraleigh]

Welcome to the forumwave:
Nice work on your testing! Everything looks like you tested accurately

About your TA.......when the TF-100 is really new, there is a tendency for the TA test to be too high. For the next couple of weeks (it goes away), be sure to hold the R-0009 bottle very vertical and wipe the dropper tip with a damp cloth between EACH drop. You will be allowing the drop to form on the tip and fall off rather than "jump" off.

In short, I think you will get a lower TA reading.

All the rest of your numbers look quite good. How does your water look?

 

[poolhokie]

My non-treated fill water had a TA = 40.

I did the damp cloth wipe method just to be safe (figured it was worth doing if they mentioned that in the instructions).

The water isn't clear as construction is close to finishing and we just got the equipment started.

 

[duraleigh]

• My non-treated fill water had a TA = 40.

  Hmmmmm. That doesn't work out. If you filled with 40 TA fill water, your TA of 170 doesn't make sense. TA cannot rise like that on it's own. In fact, with a TA of 40, your fill water should've had a very low pH (like down in the 6's)

One of those tests is incorrect or have you intentionally raised TA to that level?

 

[poolhokie]

Yes, the PB added the initial chemicals to get the water chemistry levels into the range they are now (my posted testing levels are after chemicals were added a week ago) Sorry if I skipped that part.

The TA of 40 was the fill water, PB added their chemical to raise the TA (a.k.a. expensive baking soda). The fill water was tested at 7.5 pH, again by the PB, and a pH reducer was added as well (sodium bisulfate).

So all my numbers got to where they are by what the PB added based off their testing.

 

[poolhokie]

TF-100 test #2 with water temp at 62F and taken elbow deep, away from supply and returns.

I lowered the SWGC output about a week ago, but I am guessing that the cooler temps, keeping the solar cover on, and lack of swimmers are allowing the FC to rise.
I am thinking I should cut the SWGC back further as I have plenty FC and at this level, that is just unnecessary load on the SWGC? That and leave the cover off on warmer days should drop the FC below 11 ppm. Again, I am not to worried and hope I am right here.

Even though my numbers show my water as LSI balanced, it is getting tough to fight the urge to add some calcium to raise it by 100 ppm (targeting 250 ppm). I blame the Pool Math app for stirring my concerns here. I am not sure where it would try to leech calcium from (see my signature for pool details) - I just don't want to damage the pump or heater (if that does at my CH levels)?

Finally, my high TA is the same and my pH has stayed around 7.6 - 7.8 for the last 4 weeks. Again, Pool Math makes me think I should lower it by 60, but you guys say just leave it be if balanced and pH isn't drifting? I think I am too much of a tinkerer and may need to stop worrying so much if the water is balanced and not far out of range...or head over to the Deep End!

FC = 13 ppm
CC = 0.5 ppm
pH = 7.6 or 7.7
TA = 170
CH = 150 ppm
CYA = not tested (was 80 ppm last month)
Salt = not tested yet but SWGC is green/happy

Thanks again for the veteran advice!