First time SLAM - 1 Week In

PoolInTheRain

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May 5, 2021
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North Haven, CT
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We've been SLAMing following the guidelines for about a week now. We have not seen any real improvement in the testing since the beginning. When the pool was first opened, we had high CC and the FC was being eaten up quickly. It took a positive turn after a short time with SLAM (1-2 days). However, since then, we have been holding firm at about FC of 12.5 or so. The water also looks very clear. Is there something else that might be going on? The bottom of the deep end has some staining that I'm unsure of, it looks to be from the previous owners.
 

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PoolInTheRain

Active member
May 5, 2021
27
North Haven, CT
Surface
Vinyl
This is my first time owning a pool and caring for it. The stain irks me...

But, in terms of the 3 criteria, we have consistently been at .5 CC or less for most of the week. I'm using the 10 ml line and when I test, it is very faint and clears up completely in one drop.

For the OCLT, I lose 3-4 FC every night. I bring it up to 16 ppm around 8:30 pm, and then test between 5:45 and 6 am (sun comes up at around 5:30). FC is consistently around 12.5 or 13.

It's puzzling to me because I've never done any of this before, but I read through everything carefully.

I've been brushing once a day and vacuuming every day or every 2 days at most. I test and add FC at 6 am, then again at 3 pm, and around 8:30 pm. It's almost always the same amount of loss. On the weekend when not at work, I've added FC about every 4 hours.
 

YippeeSkippy

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The stains may be from previous owners using copper products (anything by Clorox called XtraBlue) or cheap algaecides.


Maddie :flower:
 

PoolInTheRain

Active member
May 5, 2021
27
North Haven, CT
Surface
Vinyl
Are you testing the FC 30 minutes after your last addition of the day?

Have you checked everywhere algae could be hiding? The most common culprit seems to be light niches. Ladders and pool toys sometimes.
Yes, and it reaches the 16 ppm mark 30 minutes after the last addition. Regarding the light niches/ladders, can you elaborate? I brush the ladder steps each time. There is a light that I also brush, but we haven't been in the water yet, if that requires removing the bulb or cover, as the temps are only around 50 degrees currently. I'm not sure I'd even know how to get into the light area if it requires taking apart.

The stains may be from previous owners using copper products (anything by Clorox called XtraBlue) or cheap algaecides.
I found a product in the shed from the previous owners called "pristine blue" which looks to be a copper ion addition, so they must have used it at some point. Thank you for linking the resource on that.
 

Texas Splash

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Pristine Blue - no bueno. Probably copper, so toss that away. Are your steps removeable? If so, take them out. All the pipes can hide algae. If you have the large pool light held-in by a ring with a hollow niche behind it, you will want to remove that light (power OFF) and leave it on the decking as you clean out the niche and let the chlorine get in there.
 

PoolInTheRain

Active member
May 5, 2021
27
North Haven, CT
Surface
Vinyl
Pristine Blue - no bueno. Probably copper, so toss that away. Are your steps removeable? If so, take them out. All the pipes can hide algae. If you have the large pool light held-in by a ring with a hollow niche behind it, you will want to remove that light (power OFF) and leave it on the decking as you clean out the niche and let the chlorine get in there.
I tossed the Pristine immediately. I had read enough on here before opening to know that copper =/= sanitizer, so I never added any of that in.
The steps are removable, but were pretty tight when I try to remove right now. Like, not budging tight. Also, the light sounds like what you described...should it just spin off counter-clockwise?


Aye yup. That'd be the culprit. ouch. After your SLAM process -Take a water sample in to a pool store and ask them to just test for metals. Do NOT buy anything, just test. Give us the numbers.

Maddie :flower:

We had metals tested because I was worried we'd have high copper given that we saw Pristine Blue product, but surprisingly (if the test was accurate) it came out with iron (0.1 ppm).
 

Texas Splash

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should it just spin off counter-clockwise?
Those lights usually have one screw, perhaps at the 12 O'clock position, that holds that retaining ring on. After that the light should come out. Remember, power OFF to the light.
 

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IceShadow

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Show a photo of your lights and we can say if they’re the removable sort with a niche. They’d look sorta like this:


images
 

PoolInTheRain

Active member
May 5, 2021
27
North Haven, CT
Surface
Vinyl
Thanks, I was able to remove the light from the pool. It is currently sitting on the deck. A bunch of what looked like mold came out, will have to vacuum tomorrow.

How long can I leave the pool light safely on the deck? Basically, how long should I leave the pool light out before replacing it back into the pool?
 

IceShadow

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It won’t hurt to leave it out the length of the SLAM. :)
You’ll want to get into that niche with a nylon brush and brush it out into the chlorinated SLAM water.
 

PoolInTheRain

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May 5, 2021
27
North Haven, CT
Surface
Vinyl
Ok another silly question:

Since the pool light has been out, I noticed some condensation on the inside of the cover. Do I need to replace the gasket before putting it back into the pool? Is there risk of shock?
 

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IceShadow

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I've taken mine out and noticed some condensation and haven't had an issue putting it back in. I have been told if you disassemble it you should replace the gasket (like to change the bulb) - if you wanted to do that to be 100% sure it might not be out of line.
 

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