First Time Pool Water Test with TF100 Startup Kit

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Patsy B

Active member
Jul 12, 2020
40
Orlando/FL
Pool Size
10000
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello,
Newbie here. I received my test kit and went through the process of testing the water yesterday evening. Here were the results, I might do them again this evening (assume evening is the best time from what I read?). I'd appreciate your input - I did put them in Pool Math but still would like feedback.
CL - 1
BR - 2
PH - 6.8
FC - 0.15
CC - 0.10
TC = .25
CH - 550
TA - 90
*CYA < 100 around 60

*not quite sure all I know is I couldn't see the black spot when it was below the 100 line, assume that would be around 60 a little over 1/2 way to the 100 line. Why didn't they put more measurements below the 100 line? Maybe I am not reading it right.

p.s. there is some algae in spots on the bottom and sides that is stuck on rough spots. When we moved in the pool was totally green/black. I think the plaster is getting worn and there is a few rust spots. The water is clear but I think could be clearer

Regards,
 
Welcome to the forum! Great job on getting a quality test kit!

Add chlorine - NOW. At least 10 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine.
The pH will rise with aeration.

That CYA result means your CYA level is over 100.
100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2 for your CYA level.
You will most likely need to do a large drain / refill to lower the CYA level. Start planning how you will do that.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 
mknauss said:
Welcome to the forum! Great job on getting a quality test kit!

Add chlorine - NOW. At least 10 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine.
The pH will rise with aeration.

That CYA result means your CYA level is over 100.
100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2 for your CYA level.
You will most likely need to do a large drain / refill to lower the CYA level. Start planning how you will do that.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Click to expand...
Thank you for responding. I read the ABCS of Pool Water Chemistry - I still don't understand how much bleach (as all I have is the dry chlorine in the packs) to add to the 10,000. gal pool). What exactly does 10 ppm mean?
mknauss said:
Welcome to the forum! Great job on getting a quality test kit!

Add chlorine - NOW. At least 10 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine.
The pH will rise with aeration.

That CYA result means your CYA level is over 100.
100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2 for your CYA level.
You will most likely need to do a large drain / refill to lower the CYA level. Start planning how you will do that.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Click to expand...

Thank you for responding Marty. I tried to look up how much Bleach I need to put in, but could not find. I have a 1 Gal container of 5.25% Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach no other additives that I had picked up just before the pandemic. How much would you suggest i put in until I can get to a pool store to purchase liquid chlorine. All I have is the packages of shock which I read are not good. I also have the tablets for the chorinator. Should I let the ones that are in there run out and not refill?
 
Did you do the dilution CYA test?
1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will add 10 ppm FC to your pool -- PoolMath

What is the 'shock'? If Cal Hypo, you can use that. 1 pound of 73% Cal Hypo will add about 9 ppm FC.
You will be draining the bulk of this water anyway.
 
mknauss said:
Welcome to the forum! Great job on getting a quality test kit!

Add chlorine - NOW. At least 10 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine.
The pH will rise with aeration.

That CYA result means your CYA level is over 100.
100 is the limit of the CYA test, so you have to do a diluted test. Mix 50% pool water with 50% tap water. Use this mixed sample as your test water. Multiply the result by 2 for your CYA level.
You will most likely need to do a large drain / refill to lower the CYA level. Start planning how you will do that.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Click to expand...
I hello Marty I performed the diluted test which was around 80 still below 100. Am I to multiply that by 2 so 160?

also the plug of shock 1 lb 56.44% calc hypo and remainder says other ingredients.

I redid the daily test and results are CL .5 and BR 1. The ph 6.8
 
Patsy B said:
I hello Marty I performed the diluted test which was around 80 still below 100. Am I to multiply that by 2 so 160?

also the plug of shock 1 lb 56.44% calc hypo and remainder says other ingredients.

I redid the daily test and results are CL .5 and BR 1. The ph 6.8
Click to expand...
Sorry typing on my iPhone meant to say ‘pkg’ of shock not ‘plug’

should I redo the fc and cc

mince do e should I add the pkg of shock does it need more than 1 lb
 
To keep the water from going green, you should add two pkgs of that shock now.

A CYA of 160 means you need to drain 80% of your pool volume. Get a plan together for that.
 

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Last question if the evening. I did a search on this entire forum and pool school and did not see . How do I add the shock. Just sprinkle around the sides? I thought I read that’s all you do and make sure the pump is going overnight and then test tomorrow eve?
 
Yes, add it to the water, deep end. Use the brush to mix it in.

If landlord will not let you maintain the pool, not sure what you can do.
 
Patsy B said:
I hello Marty I performed the diluted test which was around 80 still below 100. Am I to multiply that by 2 so 160?
Click to expand...

If the dot disappears before you add water to the 100 mark, your level is greater than 100. Since this was the diluted test, your CYA level is over 200. That much CYA binds up the chlorine and protects it from the sun (yay) but also binds it up the chlorine so it can't sanitize your water (bad bad bad).

Your level got that high by using the pucks in the floater and chlorinator. Chlorine is a gas. In order to turn it into a solid, it's bound to either calcium or CYA. Both lead to problems because they build up in the pool over time. That's why TFP says to use liquid chlorine.
 
CrystalRiver said:
If the dot disappears before you add water to the 100 mark, your level is greater than 100. Since this was the diluted test, your CYA level is over 200. That much CYA binds up the chlorine and protects it from the sun (yay) but also binds it up the chlorine so it can't sanitize your water (bad bad bad).

Your level got that high by using the pucks in the floater and chlorinator. Chlorine is a gas. In order to turn it into a solid, it's bound to either calcium or CYA. Both lead to problems because they build up in the pool over time. That's why TFP says to use liquid chlorine.
Click to expand...
Thank you for responding. Unfortunately a family emergency has taken me away from the pool and I am now back at it. I did as one of the other guru's mentioned put in two packages of hypo that I had on hand. In hindsight that was a waste as it was clumpy from being outside in a leaky swim container. We also had rain over the past few days - I had to drain the pool down somewhat. I did perform another DAPD test and there is absolutely no chlorine registering and the PH is 6.8. I didn't bother performing any other tests. The pool does remain clear and there is no further algae except for the bit that clings to the rough spots of the plaster.

I will go tomorrow to purchase liquid chlorine. I think I need to get some chlorine in there before doing all the tests in my kit. The pucks are no more.... so I am ready to start. I suppose before I SLAM I need to do the full test or should I just go ahead and get liquid chlorine in there and if so how much for a 10,000 gal pool? Thanks!
 
Oly said:
You will not want to start the SLAM process with a CYA of 160.
Click to expand...
This. If it's 160, your target FC is 63. That's 5.25 gallons of 10% just for the first addition. If your CYA is over 200, as I suspect, then you're looking at 7+ gallons, for the first addition. To put that into perspective, I'm currently SLAMming with a smaller pool, and a CYA of 50, and I've gone through about 20 gallons so far. You're looking at about 4x as much, between the larger pool and higher CYA. That's why you have been advised to drain the pool - it's just not feasible to maintain a pool with such a high CYA.
 
CrystalRiver said:
This. If it's 160, your target FC is 63. That's 5.25 gallons of 10% just for the first addition. If your CYA is over 200, as I suspect, then you're looking at 7+ gallons, for the first addition. To put that into perspective, I'm currently SLAMming with a smaller pool, and a CYA of 50, and I've gone through about 20 gallons so far. You're looking at about 4x as much, between the larger pool and higher CYA. That's why you have been advised to drain the pool - it's just not feasible to maintain a pool with such a high CYA.
Click to expand...
so I will check CYA And take it from there
 
Hello. I finally purchased liquid chlorine 10%. I did take my water in to see what the pool store's CYA was compared to mine and it was 140 about the same as mine. People at pool store said that they consider that 100 and everyone's pool is that and not to worry it's considered normal. Regardless, of what they say I will empty 80% of the water but probably not until cooler weather.
Friday evening I added 1 gal liquid chlorine as per Marty's suggestion. Today I scrubbed the pool. Water looks very clear and some of the tough algae places actually lessened. Just now took FC and CC - just want to make sure I'm doing this right - FC was 23 drops so X 0.5 would be FC = 11.5 and CC was 2 drops X 0.5 CC=1
I wasn't sure whether at this point to do the Daily the Chorine/BR was pretty bright orange not yellow at all. The PH was 7.2.
Should I add more chlorine.
I am still learning and this is somewhat overwhelming and confusing for someone that just scraped by in science and math. I am reading each of the pool school lessons, but it's not exactly my favorite subject but I am trying...
Your suggestions/thoughts are always welcome.
 
The yellow OTO (yellow) FC test and the pH will not tell you much at your currently high FC level, concentrate on maintaining your FC levels (adding 1 gal/day of 10%) to slow the algae but realize that is the best it gets until you drop your CYA and start the SLAM SLAM Process

Add that lame advice you received from your pool store expert to our list of crazy pool store expert comments.......unbelievable. :crazy:
 
As you will not drain and lower your CYA, add chlorine each day to keep FC near 10 ppm. You will not eliminate the algae. The water will at least be sanitary.

No reason to do the OTO chlorine test. The pH is fine to do if your FC is below 10 ppm.
 

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