First time closing

Jeff74

Well-known member
Mar 10, 2010
150
Huntington, WV
Just one question: Why do we spend all of this time, effort and money on chemicals to bring it to shock level only so we can cover it, turn the pump off and let it turn green again?
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,098
Houston, Texas
If you wait until the water temp is consistently below 50 and open the pool when it reaches about 70, usually you will not develop algae over the winter months. Closing too soon and/or opening too late are usually the cause of finding a green pool even if you did everything else correctly. If you think you may need to close early and/or late then you may want to add the polyquat 60 or some borates to deter algae growth.
 

Pathfinder

In The Industry
Sep 22, 2008
14
Ontario Canada
Having your water below 70 is fine to close. If you bring your chlorine/Bromine levels up high enough and everything else balanced, drain down your pool to winter level then do a non chlorine shock wait 30 mins/ add your stain prevent wait 30/ then add your 60% algaecide. Then put on your cover. I have used this method for 12yrs closing customer pools & every one of them has been crystal clear in the spring. The point of the cover Black side down is to prevent sunlight from breaking down the chems and keeping out debris. My reason for adding the chems after is basically your wasting money & chems by doing the other suggested method.
 

bk406

Well-known member
Dec 3, 2009
2,690
Central Massachusetts
All you need is to bring the chlorine to shock level based on your CYA and maybe some poly 60 if you want. Adding anything else in those "closing kits" like MPS or stain remover is a waste of money.
 

Johnny B

LifeTime Supporter
Mar 19, 2009
563
Charlotte, NC
I think 60 degrees is better than 70. In Canada once it gets 70 it probably stays or lower. Down here, 70 can go higher quite likely.
 

Pathfinder

In The Industry
Sep 22, 2008
14
Ontario Canada
To elaborate, would you put algaecide in your pool just after you shocked it?? At break point chlorination levels how effective would any chem be being added after. Which is why I use the method stated in the previous post.
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,098
Houston, Texas
Pathfinder said:
If you bring your chlorine/Bromine levels up high enough and everything else balanced, drain down your pool to winter level then do a non chlorine shock wait 30 mins/ add your stain prevent wait 30/ then add your 60% algaecide.
Won't the non chlorine shock continue to oxidize the contents of the pool even after 1 hour?
 

bk406

Well-known member
Dec 3, 2009
2,690
Central Massachusetts
Pathfinder said:
To elaborate, would you put algaecide in your pool just after you shocked it?? At break point chlorination levels how effective would any chem be being added after. Which is why I use the method stated in the previous post.
I still dont understand what your saying. What does "breakpoint chlorination" have to do with anything? Are you just talking about chlorine potentially breaking down the poly 60?

zea3 said:
Won't the non chlorine shock continue to oxidize the contents of the pool even after 1 hour?
Yep. No need to add MPS. Yes, high chlorine will chew up sequesterant and vice versa. You could add an EDTA based chelator, but over the winter, its not that useful to do, it wont last. One/is better off adding bleach to shock levels based on the CYA and close it down. Thats why all those closing kits are a waste of money and make the pool store rich.
Pathfinder, you will find the folks on TFP are really knowledgeable about pools. There's not much the collective members here do not know. When anyone makes statements that cant be backed up and squared with the knowledge on this site, people question it.

I also saw your sig line. My pool is perfect, as are most on the site. What could you find wrong? :wink:
 

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