First time closing pool myself

pgershon

Gold Supporter
Jul 15, 2012
307
East Hampton NY
Pool Size
30
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Another question: I am draining now and trying to determine how low to go. Once I get two inches below return, I begin to hit the pool lights. Do I want to stay above that level, and if so, by how much? Here is a photo.
 

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pgershon

Gold Supporter
Jul 15, 2012
307
East Hampton NY
Pool Size
30
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Separate issue. I am having trouble draining the pool below the skimmers.

The multivalve on the DE filter is set to waste. I believe I have the main drain open, as well as the shallow skimmer and deep one, with the middle one off because water is already below that line (using Jandy 3-port valves to turn off). The pump initially reset when it filled with Crud. I cleaned the basket, but pump keeps shutting off still after 5 minutes of draining. It should have water flow from main drain and the two skimmer boxes, but its asking like it does not. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
 

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pgershon

Gold Supporter
Jul 15, 2012
307
East Hampton NY
Pool Size
30
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Needed to prime pump too. That fixed.

I have small amount of residual water in each skimmer. How do I drain?
 

wireform

Silver Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
3,105
Spring Valley, NY
Just plug the skimmers either with the skimmer gizmo or with a rubber plug. Fill up the skimmer with pool noodles or what I do along with a rubber plug I use a gallon jug filled with stone about 2-3 inches up so it's weighted down and can absorb the ice expansion. Worry not about the little water cuz more will get added over time.
 

pgershon

Gold Supporter
Jul 15, 2012
307
East Hampton NY
Pool Size
30
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
One more. I drained pool today and will blow out lines tomorrow or Tuesday. But I am unsure if I brought the water to the right level. I wanted to stay above the lights (keep them in water) but drain below the autofill (which is lower than the returns. See photos. Does this look right (two photos, of light and autofill, relative to water level)?
 

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pgershon

Gold Supporter
Jul 15, 2012
307
East Hampton NY
Pool Size
30
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
One other question. I have three skimmers and a main drain. Assume I open the main drain first to blow out and close off the skimmers. Where do I blow air into? Do I remove pump and blow into each end?
 

Newdude

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 16, 2019
11,173
NY
Where do I blow air into? Do I remove pump and blow into each end?
That’s how I did it. I also removed the filter because the filter and connecting pipes were easy to drain by themselves. Then I blew both directions at the feed/return pipes. The feed side was a 2 part process, first the main drains and then air locked the valve which then blew the skimmers. I used a garden hose duct taped to the shop vac pipe to suck out the residual water from the skimmer pipes at the pool.
 

pgershon

Gold Supporter
Jul 15, 2012
307
East Hampton NY
Pool Size
30
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Thanks again..What about level to drain to? Does it make sense to stay just above the lights and below the autofill pipe?
 

wireform

Silver Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
3,105
Spring Valley, NY
That auto fill needs attention the way the rest of the pluming needs. Shut it off at the source and rid the pipe of water followed with a plug. Make sure the pitch of the pluming at the pad will allow all pipes to drain but occasionally there's a negative pitched pipe that will hold the water unless it's blown out.
 
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pgershon

Gold Supporter
Jul 15, 2012
307
East Hampton NY
Pool Size
30
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Yeah, I will blow it out and cap like the rest. Is the water line just above the light good? I imagine once it rains/snows, the water level goes up past my capped auto-fill and returns. Once this happens, the lights should be sufficiently covered by water. Make sense?
 

pgershon

Gold Supporter
Jul 15, 2012
307
East Hampton NY
Pool Size
30
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
When “professionals” did closing, I have had cracked skimmers, cracked lights and falling coping tiles. I am trying to do it right myself.
 

pgershon

Gold Supporter
Jul 15, 2012
307
East Hampton NY
Pool Size
30
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
One more thing - I am disconnecting the pumps and cartridge filter and air blower for the spa. I assume I bring them inside, but the pool house (not heated) should be fine for them (that is where they spent winter before). Not sure if air blower needs to come in - its pretty heavy. Also not sure on DE filter - can that stay outside? All the equipment has union connectors which makes it easy to remove (I replaced many of them this past summer).

Oh, and can I leave the unions ope=n or should I try to plug (at the equipment pad)
 

wireform

Silver Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
3,105
Spring Valley, NY
Pool shipment generally is designed to remain outside in any climate. Many take the pump in but the rest is just unnecessary in my view. Unions can be left loose but connected and wherever the pipe orifice is left open there's that chance a mouse will move in JUST for the winter so just stuff it with something or do what I've been doing, I have a roll of 6 inch shrink wrap and just whirl a few layers over it. The same goes for the filter drain. Once the water is gone it should be capped just enough to hold.
 

pgershon

Gold Supporter
Jul 15, 2012
307
East Hampton NY
Pool Size
30
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I finished the first pass through the job, but I have a series of questions - not sure I did everything right. It will be 29 degrees tonight and 26 one night over the weekend, but I don't think I am in any real danger yet. Here are my questions in no particular order:

1) Skimmers - gizmos and antifreeze - I blew out the lines from both the skimmers themselves(3 at pool, one at spa) and later from the pump's suction pipe (pump was removed). However, I did not add any antifreeze (I have 4 gallons waiting to be added). How important is it to do this? Also, I put a single gizmo in each skimmer box (three for pool, one for spa). They screwed in tightly. I have seven or so gizmos leftover, which I suppose I could put into he skimmer boxes to fill volume. Any reason to do that?

2) Returns - I blew out all the returns and left cyclone blower going for about 15 minutes. But I did not cap the shallow end returns while blowing to get all the air to the deep/far end? Do I have to worry? it seemed pretty dry. Also, I tightened the caps on the returns after blowing, but did not lubricate the o-rings. Do I need to?

3) Main drain - I closed off the skimmers first and blew out the main drain exclusively. I went to look for bubbles and I actually had a fountain shooting from the drain. I closed the valve for the main drain and assume this created the air seal I am looking for Anything I should be concerned with?

4) Spa jets - I blew out the air from the return side of the jets' pumps and then capped the pipes. But I did not run my air blower as I was doing this. Should I have? Should I go back and do this next week?

5) Spa jets inflow/suction side - I blew the suction side with the two jets pumps removed and air came out the bottom of my spa, similar to what I did for the pool. But there is no valve to close as there was for the pool's main drain. For now I just left pipe open but I believe water will not go in as the spa is much lower than the open suction side (should get air lock effect)

6) Air blower - Left outside and did not touch

7) Raypak heaters - I think I blew most water out when I was blowing through the two sides that attach to pumps for pool and spa. But I did not open the valves on the heater (I see one on the header, have not located the second one). I will get the two drain plugs open on each heater next week. Do I need to blow these lines again?

8) DE filter - I blew air through the filter initially as my multiport handle was stuck (I backwashed the DE before draining pool). Then I drained the filter by removing the plug as the bottom. Do I leave this plug open or sealed? I am concerned a mouse might go in if I leave it open. After draining filter I managed to get the multiport to recirculate. I also did not clean the DE filter as I had intended. Can this wait until spring? Unfortunately, my landscaper shut off the hoses outside so its difficult to spray down.

9) Chlorine generators for pool (Hayward) and spa (Jandy) - I have not yet removed but the water was blown out as I was blowing the pipes. I can bring inside for winter next week, but not sure what this accomplishes as my inside is not heated so why not just leave installed (and it keeps the mice out of the pipes)

10) Autofills - I drained, removed the fluid masters. and blew out the lines, but I dont see a way to plug the compartments/tanks. I plugged the equalizer opening at the pool and spa, but the tanks can collect rain water and then freeze. How do I prevent that.

11) Open pipes - I have many open pipes at the equipment pad where my 4 pumps were connected. I brought all the pumps inside. I can either shrink wrap the holes next week, or pup the pumps back. Like with the chlorinators, I am not sure why it helps to bring the pumps off lien and into a cold room, versus leaving at the equipment pad.
 

Newdude

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 16, 2019
11,173
NY
However, I did not add any antifreeze (I have 4 gallons waiting to be added). How important is it to do this?
If you got all the water out of the pipe, or even enough water out to leave the rest below the frost line, the antifreeze isn’t even needed. It’s just extra extra insurance. It super easy to add 1/2 gal at each skimmer.
I have seven or so gizmos leftover, which I suppose I could put into he skimmer boxes to fill volume. Any reason to do that?
It will not hurt one bit. It might even help. (y)
But I did not cap the shallow end returns while blowing to get all the air to the deep/far end? Do I have to worry? it seemed pretty dry
You should have gotten all the horizontal pipe water. With multiple openings it may struggle to force the water out the vertical pipes that go to the returns. Whatever you missed should be well below the frost line, and you may not have missed any because the cyclone is a beast. Add a gallon of antifreeze for the extra-extra insurance.
3) Main drain -
All good here.

No idea here. Hang tight for thoughts.
7) Raypak heaters
Should be fine once the 2 drain plugs (each, like you said (y)) are removed.
8) DE filter - I blew air through the filter initially as my multiport handle was stuck (I backwashed the DE before draining pool). Then I drained the filter by removing the plug as the bottom. Do I leave this plug open or sealed?
Plug it up
After draining filter I managed to get the multiport to recirculate. I also did not clean the DE filter as I had intended. Can this wait until spring?
yes it may. It’s a wet job and it’s windy as snot and 31 degrees out. BRRRR
9) Chlorine generators for pool
leave them in place. Those of us that bring them inside (🙋‍♂️) only do so for their sleeping abilities. Any equipment can handle the elements just fine. If yours is going to be in the unheated house as the alternative, There isn’t much point to bringing It inside.
10) Autofills - I drained, removed the fluid masters. and blew out the lines, but I dont see a way to plug the compartments/tanks. I plugged the equalizer opening at the pool and spa, but the tanks can collect rain water and then freeze. How do I prevent that
Ice only expands about 10% and it does so upwards. A tank or open container is the perfect vessel to freeze with little concern. If you can get something in there to help, (empty milk jugs weighted down, pool noodles, etc) great. If not you should be fine as long as it’s not filled to the brim with rain water.
11) Open pipes - I have many open pipes at the equipment pad where my 4 pumps were connected. I brought all the pumps inside. I can either shrink wrap the holes next week, or pup the pumps back. Like with the chlorinators, I am not sure why it helps to bring the pumps off lien and into a cold room, versus leaving at the equipment pad.
You can DIY pipe caps with ziplock baggies and tape, you can get rubber winterizing plugs (the wingnut ones) at the hardware store for all the ends, or you can put the pumps back. All 3 will do fine by you.

I brought my equipment indoors. I didn’t like the prospect of it all sitting in a snow drift for up to a month. It could have done it, I know this. But the pump and SWG have electronics and it was easy for me to do.
 

pgershon

Gold Supporter
Jul 15, 2012
307
East Hampton NY
Pool Size
30
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
RE-upping thread. Any thoughts on 4-6 which relate to spa. I am most interested in making sure I get floor drain right