First test with the Taylor k-2006

Mar 1, 2017
13
Sanger, CA
#1
A little history: I have only every (past 2 years) checked CL and pH with a cheap residential test kit. I have only ever added liquid chlorine, tablets and acid to my pool. Every other test and/or chemical is new to me.

Here are the numbers:
FC= 1.0 ppm (Target= 3)
CC= .25 ppm (Target= <.5)
pH= 7.2 (Target= 7.5)
TA= 40 ppm (Target= ??)
CH= 120 ppm (Target= ??)
CYA= 0 (Target= 30-50)
Saturated Index= -1.1 (Target= -.02)
Water temp= 59°

I know FC is low, no problem, I use liquid bleach from my local pool store. I'll add some in the morning. The CC is less then .5, this is an outdoor pool. The pH is a little on the low side. I was thinking of add some baking soda, not sure how much. I can't seem to find a target TA, mine looks low compared "Pool Math". CYA is low, I will go and buy some solid stabilizer tomorrow. The saturated index is the most alarming (I think). I'm not sure where to start. Thanks in advance!!!
 

Texas Splash

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#2
Actually, when I put the numbers into Poolmath I get -1.21 (corrosion likely). I figured that just by seeing your low pH, TA, and CH. So what to do now?
1. Get the granular stabilizer soaking in in a sock to increase CYA to at least 30.
2. Increase FC to about 4 for today, then keep it at about 5.
3. Increase pH right away with either borax, soda ash, and/or aeration. I'd increase to about 7.7-7.8 since your CH is so low.
4. Increase TA to about 70 with baking soda. This will also help with the low CH.
Doing the FC & CYA now helps with sanitation. Adjusting the pH and TA immediately helps raise your CSI to about -0.40. Still a little low, but much better that what you currently have until you can increase CH a little more to the minimum 250 range. Once you get the CH back up to about 250, then you don't have to worry so much about keeping pH and TA elevated to compensate.

Hope that helps.
 

duraleigh

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Apr 1, 2007
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#4
I would say to read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. Since most of this testing is new, you need to understand why you are testing and how to precisely adjust the parameters.

FC is your most important piece of the puzzle. Get in at least 3 ppm and then keep it in your pool. How does your water look?
 
Mar 1, 2017
13
Sanger, CA
#5
Texas Splash- Thanks for that advise. I have read the "abc's" and the "pool school" articles a couple of times. I have a few numbers that are way off and I really wasn't sure how adjusting one chemical would effect the others. What your saying does makes sense. Can I do all of that at the same time? Or should I should I focus on getting 1 level corrected at a time?

Duraleigh- The water is clear, some green alge on the bottom and walls. I have never been this precise with my testing and care so the pool is not (yet) perfect.

I will definitely be reading this site to continue to educate myself about, my pool. Thank you all for you help.
 

Texas Splash

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#6
some green alge on the bottom and walls
Algae changes a couple things. You can still increase the TA, but keep the pH at about 7.2 for now. Algae means you need to switch into "SLAM" mode (link in my sig below). Today, increase FC to "10" while you simultaneously begin to increase CYA with granular stabilizer. Make sure that before you increase FC to 10, that you have the stabilizer soaking in the water and dissolving. Tomorrow once all the stabilizer is dissolved, you can assume the CYA is 30, so increase and maintain an FC of "12" and continue to maintain that level of 12 until you pass the 3 SLAM criteria noted on the SLAM page. Use the Poolmath calculator to determine how much granular stabilizer you need to place in a sock to reach that CYA goal of 30.

Once you successfully pass all 3 SLAM criteria, then you can increase pH to about 7.7 as noted above, and look into adjusting your CH as well. Let's make sure you don't get a full-scale algae outbreak first, and that's where the SLAM process will help you. Remember to use regular bleach (no scented or splashless products) to maintain your FC level.

- - - Updated - - -

Also, in case you didn't already know .... for FC testing, use the 10 ML water sample size. Add one heaping scoop of power & mix. Add the R-0871 drops, and whatever number you get (from pink to clear) divide by 2. Example: 20 drops = FC of 10. :)
 
Mar 1, 2017
13
Sanger, CA
#11
Here are some new numbers:
FC= 2.0 ppm
CC= .0 ppm
pH= 7.2
TA= 40 ppm
CH= 110 ppm
CYA= <30 <0
Saturated Index= -1.2
Water temp= 60°

I added 8 lbs. of sanitizer last night. Left the pump running at 1500 rmp all night. Gave the sanitizer a few squeezes today...

Pool Math says to:

add 2.75 gal of 12.5% liquid bleach to get FC to 12

I'll keep you all posted... Thanks.
 

Texas Splash

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#12
Numbers looks better. Keep squeezing that sock as much as needed to dissipate the stabilizer. FC of 12 is perfect. Don't forget brush often to disperse any algae trying to attach to the pool surfaces, and let us know if you have any questions. Have a nice weekend.
 
Mar 1, 2017
13
Sanger, CA
#13
I don't think the t-shirt was porous enough for the stabilizer. I let is soak for 3-4 days and still the shirt was pretty full. On day 2, I used a fork to put larger holes in the shirt. On day 3, I used a knife to put even larger holes in the shirt. On day 4, I ripped the shirt open and used my pool broom to sweep and distribute the stabilizer. I hope this was okay. Today is day 4 and I ran my pool pump for 2 hours and then took some chemical readings.

Here are the numbers:
FC= 2.0 ppm
CC= .0 ppm
pH= 6.9
TA= 40 ppm
CH= 110 ppm
CYA= 45
Water temp= 68°
CSI= -1.48

I'm going to add liquid Bleach and bring my FC level up to 4.0. How should I bring up my pH up 7.5? Should I aerate or use borax? Is my TA too low? My CH looks low, is this an issue with my pebble pool? I was really hoping that my Saturated index would raise once I got my CYA up, apparently not the case. How to I get my water to be non-corrosive?

Thanks.
 

Jezza

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Jan 18, 2015
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Bunbury, WA, Australia
#14
Hi Josh,

You need to SLAM the pool first to make sure you have completely gotten rid of the algae. Note that there are 3 conditions before you have passed a SLAM and it usually involves several days of maintaining a SLAM level of chlorine in the pool otherwise it will just come back.

If your CYA is 45 rounded to 50 then you will need to SLAM at 20 FC which you need to try and maintain.

Also just wondering how you got 6.9 for your pH with a K2006 as it only goes down to 7.0? Also yes TA is a bit low -is that affecting your pH- ie- is it swinging around toward the low end?
 
Mar 1, 2017
13
Sanger, CA
#15
I did Slam my pool for 3 days. I maintained FC at 12. I did the overnight test and lost 1ppm. I added the stabilizer 1 day before beginng to slam. Yes, the k-2007 does only go down to 7.0, the color was a shade lighter then the 7.0, so I figured around 6.9.

How do I know what TA and CH levels to keep in my pool? I have read the pool school and the abc's, I didn't see and specifics for pebble tech. Thanks.
 

pooldv

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Aug 10, 2012
24,993
DFW, TX
#19
Definitely raise CH up to 250. Our CH was low the first epwinter and we had noticeable etching of our pebblesheen. I wouldn't raise TA above 50 or 60 at most. Any higher than 60 and it will likely just push your PH up. Then adding acid to lower PH will also lower your TA over time.

More about etching here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling