First test results with the TF Pro Kit

HoleInTheDesertGround

Active member
Nov 7, 2020
41
Southwest Desert, AZ
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-9)
My new pool (18k gallons) was filled March 27. It has a SWG but per my builder, they will not be adding salt until 30 days after the pool is filled. The reason given for the delay in adding salt had to do with the Pebble Sheen company warranty (🤷🏻‍♂️). Anyway, I purchased the TF-Pro kit and it was delivered quickly and the packaging is awesome. I ran the tests per the instructions and here are my levels. Before you destroy me in the comments, please know this is my first pool and I am trying to learn.

PH: 8.2
CI: .50
BR: 1
CC: 0.5
FC: 1
TC: 1.5

TA: 110
CH: 275
CYA: 32

Looks like I am making a trip to the pool supply store.
 
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Reactions: mknauss
Congrats on the TFP Pro and your first test results. So a few comments:
- Your pH will climb rather quickly for a few months while the plaster cures. Stay vigilant to keep the pH around 7.8, 8.0 max.
- Your FC is low, so add some liquid chlorine or regular bleach right away to avoid algae. Don't let it fall any lower than 3 ppm.
- CYA can be tricky, but you'll get it. No need to try and split the viewing tube numbers. It's either 30 or closer to 40, so we round up or down as needed. In your case, it sounds like 30. A CYA of 30 is fine for now, but once you hit the 30 day mark, increase the CYA to 70 to help the SWG and FC production.
- We (chlorine pools) don't test for BR (Bromine). If you were testing the CL (chlorine), that's fine, but remember the FAS-DPDP will always be more accurate.
- Don't worry about the TA, it's fine for now. CH is surprisingly good as well.

For now, your two biggest things to watch are the rising pH and falling FC (algae). Be sure to aways compare FC to CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. Congrats on the new pool.
 
Congrats on the TFP Pro and your first test results. So a few comments:
- Your pH will climb rather quickly for a few months while the plaster cures. Stay vigilant to keep the pH around 7.8, 8.0 max.
- Your FC is low, so add some liquid chlorine or regular bleach right away to avoid algae. Don't let it fall any lower than 3 ppm.
- CYA can be tricky, but you'll get it. No need to try and split the viewing tube numbers. It's either 30 or closer to 40, so we round up or down as needed. In your case, it sounds like 30. A CYA of 30 is fine for now, but once you hit the 30 day mark, increase the CYA to 70 to help the SWG and FC production.
- We (chlorine pools) don't need the BR (Bromine) side. If you were testing the CL (chlorine), that's fine, but remember the FAS-DPDP will always be more accurate.
- Don't worry about the TA, it's fine for now. CH is surprisingly good as well.

For now, your two biggest things to watch are the rising pH and falling FC (algae). Be sure to aways compare FC to CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. Congrats on the new pool.
I hope I have your skill level some day!
I inputted the numbers into the pool math app and this is what it says I need:

-2 quarts, 1 cup, 3 oz of bleach
-1 quart, 3 cups, 2 oz of muratic acid
-2 gallons, 2 cups of liquid stabilizer
-29lbs of calcium chloride
 
I hope I have your skill level some day!
I inputted the numbers into the pool math app and this is what it says I need:

-2 quarts, 1 cup, 3 oz of bleach
-1 quart, 3 cups, 2 oz of muratic acid
-2 gallons, 2 cups of liquid stabilizer
-29lbs of calcium chloride
No calcium chloride. Your fill water will raise your CH quickly enough due to evaporation. In fact, if you have a water softener for your home, it would be wise to see if there is any way to use soft water for make up water to the pool.

You have not filled out your signature nor are you sharing your Poolmath logs so we cannot check your other chemical volumes.
 
I would just focus on the chlorine and a little muriatic acid for now. I wouldn't add calcium just yet nor stabilizer. Wait on the stabilizer (CYA) if you can until the SWG is operational. FC and pH are your main items for the next week or two. The Poolmath APP is probably giving you some suggestions, but it doesn't realize your plaster is new and/or that you can't use the SWG yet.
 
I would just focus on the chlorine and a little muriatic acid for now. I wouldn't add calcium just yet nor stabilizer. Wait on the stabilizer (CYA) if you can until the SWG is operational. FC and pH are your main items for the next week or two. The Poolmath APP if probably giving you some suggestions, but it doesn't realize your plaster is new and/or that you can't use the SWG yet.
🙌
 
No calcium chloride. Your fill water will raise your CH quickly enough due to evaporation. In fact, if you have a water softener for your home, it would be wise to see if there is any way to use soft water for make up water to the pool.

You have not filled out your signature nor are you sharing your Poolmath logs so we cannot check your other chemical volumes.
My pool does refill off of soft water so I am good there. I will look into the pool math logs and I don’t know anything about the signature so I will look into that too!
 

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Today’s results after adding

-2 quarts, 1 cup, 3 oz of bleach
-1 quart, 3 cups 2 oz of muratic acid

PH: 7.5
Br: 6
Cl: 3
CYA: 40
TA: 110
FC: 2.0
CC: .50
TC: 2.5
Water Temperature: 76 F
Outdoor Temperature: 88 F and Sunny
 
Great job.
No reason to do the OTO yellow match test. You have no Br in your pool.
Add chlorine. Target the upper end of the range for your CYA - FC/CYA Levels
 
Alright. Pool Math says to add 3 cups, 6 oz of bleach.
Seems like not enough. I put in your 18000 gallon pool, FC of 2, and CYA of 40, Target FC of 5, need to add 69 oz of 10% liquid chlorine.

You would be better off targeting 7 ppm (upper end of range) so would need 115 oz.
 
If you will have a SWCG, that will be adding the chlorine every day for you.
Please fill out your signature.
 

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