First day testing

BadDogPSD

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May 24, 2020
95
Reno, NV
Did my first test today using the Taylor K2006 kit. I also received my TF-100 kit yesterday, so I'm going to use that tomorrow.

These are the results:

Water Temp- 71F

Free Chlorine- 6.0
Total Chlorine- 7.2
Cyanuric Acid- 90
PH- 8.0 (acid demand test was 2 drops to get to 7.6)
Calcium Hardness- 240
Total Alkalinity 140

CSI 0.36 (per PoolMath app)

Prior owner was using stabilized chlorine tablets (I'm guess that's why the CYA is on the high side).
There is some scaling on the tiles that does not scrub off easily.

Looks like I need to add some chlorine this evening, 133 ounces per PoolMath. Should I also try to lower the PH? What about the Alkalinity?

Thanks!
 

duraleigh

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Just a point of clarification......the two kits are pretty close to identical (although I like the TF-100) why do you have them both?

Yes, bring your pH down into the 7's and keep it there.

Ignore your TA for now.

How are you currently chlorinating?

There is an issue with your FC and TC so don't use any chlorine just yet. Post your response and we'll get back to the chlorine
 

BadDogPSD

Gold Supporter
May 24, 2020
95
Reno, NV
Thank you, good question!

I ordered the Taylor several weeks ago and finally got it earlier this week. After finding this website, I joined & ordered the TF-100... Probably silly, but after spending some time on this
site, I appreciated the depth of knowledge the moderators and members offered and wanted to buy the TF-100 kit to support the site a little more.

I'm currently using liquid bleach, 12.5%.

A local pool company had been doing the weekly service for the past few weeks, but I'm doing my own as of this weekend. Just starting, lots to learn!
 

duraleigh

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I understand on the test kit. Thanks.

So, the issue with your chlorine is you don't show a test result for CC's. Did you do that test?

If so, your result was 1.2? Let us know.......that's a bit high but let's clarify first.
 

duraleigh

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So CC's have to come down. Before we SLAM the pool, tell us what your water looks like.

If it is clear, I would suggest you elevate your FC to about 10-12 ppm and hold it there by replenishing for about 24-48 hours. Then, do the FC test again followed by the CC test to see if they have come down.
 

setsailsoon

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Oct 25, 2015
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B,

Welcome to TFP! You've come to the right place. We have experts in everything pool. You've got one already helping you. What's really great about this site is that we don't sell anything. So you can be assured you're not getting hype advice to sell you something. Once you get adjusted from the previous maintenance program your pool will be superb at a fraction of the cost of pool services and you'll know how to keep it this way with proven simple methods. It only takes a short while (days not weeks) to pick this up. And if you ever have any kind of problem with anything to do with your pool we'll always have your back.

Good luck and again, welcome!

Chris
 
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BadDogPSD

Gold Supporter
May 24, 2020
95
Reno, NV
Water is clear, but not crystal clear like I've seen in the pictures others have posted here. Can see details on the bottom, but the water doesn't sparkle.

Today's test results:

Water Temp- 70F

Free Chlorine- 2.2, down 3.8 from yesterday
CC- .2, down 1.0 from yesterday
Total Chlorine- 2.4, down 4.8 from yesterday
Cyanuric Acid- 90, no change
PH- 8.0 (acid demand test was 2 drops to get to 7.6), no change
Calcium Hardness- 230, down 10 from yesterday (added water)
Total Alkalinity 140, no change

CSI 0.34 (per PoolMath app)

Used the Taylor kit again today.

Looks like the pool lost quite a bit of chlorine yesterday & last night. We had a big wind storm blow through for most of the afternoon yesterday and a lot of organics got
blown in (leaves, flower petals, dirt)

Should I add chlorine now or wait until this evening?
 

duraleigh

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Should I add chlorine now or wait until this evening?
I would suggest you elevate your FC to about 10-12 ppm and hold it there by replenishing for about 24-48 hours. Then, do the FC test again followed by the CC test to see if they have come down.
Add it now! Do not let your FC get below about 10 ppm. (of course, it is below that now so get it in there.

Lower your pH down to around 7.5.

Have you read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School?
 

BadDogPSD

Gold Supporter
May 24, 2020
95
Reno, NV
No need to test for CYA, CH, TA for now. Get your pH down and your FC up.
Understood.

I've read most the the ABC's but can say I don't yet fully comprehend everything I've read.
Just added the chlorine, 2.5 gallons of 12.5%. Need to get to the store to get some muriatic acid I have a coupon for Leslie's so I'll probably head there. Looks like I need to add 53 ounces per PoolMath.

The solar cover I ordered got delivered yesterday. From what I've read, the cover will help conserve FC and also help reduce evaporation, is that correct? We lose about .5 - .75" of water per day currently.

Thank you for all the help!
 

duraleigh

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Yes. Perfect purchase for your climate. I never needed one but all the posts on here say they don't last too long so get a cheap one.
 

BadDogPSD

Gold Supporter
May 24, 2020
95
Reno, NV
Tested again this afternoon:

3:30 PM about 3 hours after adding the chlorine, pool temp 71F
FC- 12.0
CC- 0.2

Got it a little higher than I was expecting, but appears to be okay with the CYA at 140

Added 53 oz. muriatic acid 31.4% (HASA from Leslies) about 3:40 PM
Tested PH at 6:00PM
PH was 7.8
TA was still 140

Going to test again in the morning to see if anything changes overnight.
 

BadDogPSD

Gold Supporter
May 24, 2020
95
Reno, NV
Sorry I didn't get a chance to reply yesterday.

Water looks pretty good, running the pump 24/7

Tested yesterday afternoon @ 5:30 water temp 70F
FC- 8.8
CC- 0.2
PH- 7.6
TA- 130

I added 54 oz. 10% liquid chlorine to get FC back up to 10+

Should I add more muriatic acid to try to lower the TA further?
 

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duraleigh

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Your pool looks pretty good. I would suggest this....

1. Please re-read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. It really is 101 basics and will help you understand "why".

2. Switch to a 10 ml sample of pool water on the chlorine (FAS/DPD) test. it makes the value of each drop .5 ppm which is perfectly fine and saves you a lot on reagents.

3. Leave TA alone. Just control your pH by keeping it in the mid- 7"s with muriatic and the TA will slowly come down.

4. Get your chlorine back up to around 12 ppm for maybe 24 more hours and then let it drift down to maintenance level. Have you found the FC/CYA chart in Pool School?
 

BadDogPSD

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May 24, 2020
95
Reno, NV
Thank you. I'll re-read the ABC's. I appreciate the tip onthe 10 ml vs 25 ml sample testing.

So apparently the pool company came by and service the pool today and dumped over 1/2 gallon of muriatic acid in... Apparently they missed my email cancelling the service. Sigh.
Looking the the bottles of 'stuff' they had left here, the also added a bunch of clarifier and stain remover... and the pump was off.

Tonights test results:
FC- 5.8
CC- less than .2
PH- 7.0
TA- 110

Added 2.2 gallons 10% liquid chlorine. Will retest in the morning.