Filter/gasket issues, pump bond wire disconnected

[samhorowitz]

Bought a house in the Jacksonville, FL (USA), area with an approximately 15-year-old pool a few months ago. I've been soaking up all I can from this forum basically ever since. Water balance is basically under control at this point, although I'm desperate to either get the SWG cell replaced or get a new SWG system in.

When we first got the house, the handle on the multivalve port was broken, and so I purchased a new top cover with handle and replaced it at the direction of the local pool shop that the previous owners worked with the whole time they had the pool.

1. Definitely ever since (I don't recall noticing it before), there is a sort of "crackling" sound whenever the pump starts up. Sometimes it continues for just a few minutes, sometimes a couple of hours. Seems to be related to air brought in when the pump loses prime after being off for a couple of hours? Don't know if this is normal. Maybe I need to check/lube the spider gasket? Sometimes water seeps out of the MVP where the top cover (part I replaced) meets the bottom assembly (whatever the screws at the top go into). I tried ordering a new spider gasket, but the part that game was not right, and I don't even see a replacement part number on Hayward's website. The pressure gauge (which I also replaced at move-in) "wobbles" as the pump runs. Always. Is that normal? Fluctuating probably .5-1.0 PSI in either direction as it goes. Like a rough idle on a car tachometer.

2. Sometimes when the pump starts up I get water spurting from the collar where the MVP meets the filter. I understand the basic thing is to check/lube the O-ring there. However... it looks to me like the lines to/from the MVP are glued in, so should I expect there to be enough play in the plumbing that if I remove the band around the collar that I can move move it? I would like to deep clean the sand as well.

3. The pump is not secured to the pad in any way, and there is a loose copper wire laying beside it, not connected. The wire runs into the ground with either the suction or return pipe (can't recall). Seems like this would be the bonding wire? Shouldn't it be connected to that exposed connector on the motor housing?

4. These vent pipes -- what exactly are they for, and how big a deal is it to move them a few feet away? I have a little experience working with PVC, learning more as I finish the sprinkler system the last owner started and didn't complete.

 

[duraleigh]

1. The "crackling" is very likely air bubbles going though your system. If they eventually go away, it is harmless. The leak at the top of the mpv valve is up to you, It may be worth your time to disassemble and make that connection again. It is not quite sealing but DON't overtighten. A little wobble in the psi is fine.

2. They are likely not glued to the filter but threaded. Nevertheless, I see no way to get into the filter without cutting and then remaking the pipes.

3. Yes. Hook it up....tight!

4. There is no reason to vent a pool system. Could it be the backwash exhaust?

 

[Jimrahbe]

S,

The bare copper "bonding" wire should be connect to the lug on the outside of the pump.

If water can get out, air can get in.. This is most likely why your pump will not hold a prime when the pump is shut off. And why you have all the bubbles at start up.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

We see those round open pipe on top of the T on Florida pools. The thought it is a suction break line to prevent entrapment.

The pipe with a U top pointed down looks like an air intake line to add some bubbles to return jets.

I would think you can relocate them as long as you maintain the airflow and design.

 

[samhorowitz]

4. There is no reason to vent a pool system. Could it be the backwash exhaust?

nope — that’s further away ... we do have “spa jets” around an in-pool table though

 

[samhorowitz]

1. The "crackling" is very likely air bubbles going though your system. If they eventually go away, it is harmless. The leak at the top of the mpv valve is up to you, It may be worth your time to disassemble and make that connection again. It is not quite sealing but DON't overtighten. A little wobble in the psi is fine.

2. They are likely not glued to the filter but threaded. Nevertheless, I see no way to get into the filter without cutting and then remaking the pipes.

1. It can go for hours and during that time pressure is several PSI lower than when it smooths out. I’ll try re-seating and lubing the gasket but is there anywhere to get a replacement? Inyo doesn’t seem to sell just the gasket.

2. when I look up the fitting part number it’s threaded on the MPV side, but there’s be no way to spin it if the other end is a standard slip fitting right?

 

[JamesW]

The vents are likely to be suction limiting vents, which is mostly a Florida thing.

They might be allowing some air into the suction lines on startup.

Florida is kind of fanatical about suction entrapment. It's a serious issue, but some of what they require might be overkill.

 

[duraleigh]

1. If the crackling is for "hours" and your psi is lower than normal, I would try to find that leak. There is an article in Pool School that may help.

Out of curiosity, see if plugging that "vent" with something temporarily reduces the crackling.

2. That's correct. You'll have to cut it loose