Filling a pool procedures

sgtdvldog

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
105
Blue Springs, MO
I am having a new liner put in and have looked for instructions on how to bring the water up to specs. If there is already a post like this, please point me in the right direction. It would also be nice if there was a sticky or something in Pool School.

I know how to check the water, but I want to know what do to next and what order to put in the chemicals. Do you add CL first or get the PH up or down? When do you add CYA, at the beginning or after all the other readings are right. I don't want to add one thing to raise/lower and then have to add it again when I add something else that messes the first one up, am I making sense or just rambling? Also how long should you wait until you try to adjust another reading?

Thanks,
George
 

JasonLion

TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
May 7, 2007
37,880
Silver Spring, MD
There isn't one order of doing things that is perfect for all situations. The best thing to do is to test your fill water and post your numbers and then we can give you advice specific to your situation.

You can add CYA more or less any time.

You want to add 2 ppm of chlorine the first evening and each subsequent evening until it has been 24 since you added CYA.

PH and TA interact and the order depends on where they start.

For most chemical additions you can test again one hour with the pump running after the addition of chemicals. For CYA, however, you should wait a week.
 

sgtdvldog

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
105
Blue Springs, MO
JasonLion said:
There isn't one order of doing things that is perfect for all situations.
I had a feeling you were going to say that, but I'd thought I'd ask. This is only my second summer owning a pool, so I thought maybe there was something I was missing. The liner just got put in today so I have a while before I have to worry about it.

Off subject, how long does a 24'x4' Round AGP take to fill up using a garden hose?

Thanks for the advice,
George
 

Quality114

Member
May 26, 2010
10
Gilbertsville PA
I would plan on 5 to 10 gallons per minute using a garden hose at 50 psi.

24' X 4' = 13590 Gal/7 gal per minute = 1941 minutes/60= 32.35 hours.

Water price of $8 per 1000 gallons = $108 to fill it.
 

velcrow44

LifeTime Supporter
May 26, 2010
4
Careful with the garden hose if you have a well. I burned out my pump trying to fill the pool. It was dying anyway but it ruined my Memorial Day weekend!
 

waste

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Mar 29, 2007
4,160
Coastalish 'down easter'
Be careful if you use a truck to bring in the water or use a fire hydrant!

'Blasting' the water onto the liner could well lead to wrinkles! :hammer: If you use a high volume method to fill, be sure to diffuse the force of the water, cup your hand under the incoming flow, or bounce the flow off a wall or, start with < full flow, until the pool has 6" of water in it, then direct the flow into the existing water.
 

sgtdvldog

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
105
Blue Springs, MO
I'm on city water, so it's coming from my outside faucet.

I ran a sample from my kitchen faucet and here are my numbers:

TC 2
FC .5
CC 1.5
PH 8.0
TA 60
CH 70

Does the powder go bad after one season? I had it down in my garage during the winter. My CC didn't seem right to me, so I tried the drop test and got FC 3, TC 3, CC 0.

I'm not really concerned about my PH right now, because my sample came out of the faucet so it could have messed up the readings.

My pool has about 6-9 inches of water in it and they are coming back out today to iron out the wrinkles and cut the return and skimmer openings.
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2009
23,036
SouthWest Alabama
Your CC could be correct. Some municipal water systems use chlorimines for sanitation.

If your test kit uses the R-0870 & R-0871 reagents they should still be good. Which "drop" test did you use to get the FC of 3?

Your pH is most likely right too. Ours runs 7.9 right out of the faucet.
 

sgtdvldog

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
105
Blue Springs, MO
It's a Taylor DPD test I got last season before I realized I should have gotten a TFtestkit. The only things missing were the powder and the OTO test.
 

sgtdvldog

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
105
Blue Springs, MO
Here is the instructions for it.

Chlorine (Free, Combined, Total) Test

1. Rinse and fill small comparator tube to 9 mL mark with
water to be tested.

2. Add 5 drops R-0001 and 5 drops R-0002. Cap and invert
to mix.

3. Match color with color standard.* Record as parts per
million (ppm) free chlorine (FC).

4. Add 5 drops R-0003. Cap and invert to mix.

5. Match color immediately. Record as ppm total chlorine (TC).

6. Subtract FC from TC. Record as ppm combined chlorine (CC).
Formula: TC - FC = CC.
 

sgtdvldog

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
105
Blue Springs, MO
I got my pool filled this weekend, but now a problem has came up. When I turn on the pump, it leaks around my skimmer on the outside. When the pump is off, it doesn't leak. I have called the pool company, but can anyone think of why this would happen?

Also, What is the best way to point the return jets in an round AGP? Do I aim it so that it causes the water to flow around the perimeter and have it not quite breaking the water surface? That's the way I had it last year, but want to make sure again.
 

Richard320

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 6, 2010
20,815
San Dimas, CA (LA County)
sgtdvldog said:
I got my pool filled this weekend, but now a problem has came up. When I turn on the pump, it leaks around my skimmer on the outside. When the pump is off, it doesn't leak. I have called the pool company, but can anyone think of why this would happen?

Also, What is the best way to point the return jets in an round AGP? Do I aim it so that it causes the water to flow around the perimeter and have it not quite breaking the water surface? That's the way I had it last year, but want to make sure again.
My guess is a loose gasket. At rest it seals. Soon as you start things, there's movement. You might not see it, but it happens. You can see the same thing with a spray nozzle on a garden hose. Turn on the water with the nozzle off, the hose suddenly jerks and gets stiff, open the nozzle, it jerks again and relaxes. You've got stiffer hose and lower pressure, so it's not so obvious. Try tightening things.

Aiming jets - depends on TA. If you need to bring it down, aim jets up. Otherwise play with them so they push things at the skimmer. If you have no leaves floating on the surface now, toss a few empty capped plastic soda or water bottles on the surface and get them pushed towards the skimmer. It's all going to be trial and error there.
 

sgtdvldog

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
105
Blue Springs, MO
My skimmer is about 2-3 feet to the left of the return jets. When I point it towards the skimmer, should I point it left or to the right and have it go in a counter clockwise direction, which is what I did last year. This seemed to leave a dead spot in the middle last year where everything seemed to settle.
 

tmyers

Active member
Apr 10, 2010
44
Western North Carolina
George, are you a Jarhead? I seen your screen name. I spent 8 years in the corps. As far as the return, have it push water the long way around the pool back around to the skimmer.
 

sgtdvldog

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
105
Blue Springs, MO
The pool guy called me and told me that he found a hairline crack in the skimmer faceplate and it needs to be replaced. My guess is that it got water in there and cracked over the winter. I didn't cover the pool over the winter because I knew I was getting a new liner. It was a nice shade of green when they got to the liner.
 

sgtdvldog

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
105
Blue Springs, MO
The pool guy will hopefully get it fixed tomorrow. Since I had enough water in it I decided to go ahead and run it for about 45 min after adding about 96oz 6%. It might not have been long enough to circulate but here are my numbers.

FC. 1.5
TC. 2.5
CC. 1.0
PH. 8.0
TA. 50
CH. 60

Just to test it I ran the Taylor test above and got the same numbers. I must have messes it up last time. Would the high ph mess up the FC? Also my water is clear, but it was mentioned that CC's are used for sanitation, do I still need to do a overnight test or will those go away on their own?
 

JasonLion

TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
May 7, 2007
37,880
Silver Spring, MD
Normally, when CC is higher than 0.5 you should shock the pool. However, you just filled the pool and your FC level is fairly low, so I wouldn't worry about it unless it remains above 0.5 for 48 hours.

You should lower your PH down to about 7.5. Also, your TA is a little low, best to bump that up to around 80.
 

sgtdvldog

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
105
Blue Springs, MO
I know that you should shock when the CC is above .5, but didn't know if it was needed since I just filled the pool.

I was planning on working on the PH and TA when I get the skimmer leak fixed. I just wanted to get some Chlorine in there before it turned green on me and was confused about the CC thing. Since this is the same water I drink that filled the pool, I didn't want to be thinking that I was drinking algae... :)

Thanks for the help,
George
 

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