Few Questions From a Rookie in Maryland

Noli

Member
May 17, 2018
18
Frederick/MD
Bought a home with a pool - first season owner. My pump (Pentair CHII-NI-1-1/2F) appears to have a few leaks. In the picture below, I have a pretty decent leak. I also have a much slower leak that appears to be coming from a bolt from the opposite side of the pump. Couldn't insert the picture...something about exceeding my quota (gotta figure out how that works as well). Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Also, tested my water or the first time:

FC: 1.34
CC: 4.84
pH: 8
CH: 212
TA: 103
CYA: 43
Copper: 0
Iron: 0.1


IMG_1957.JPG
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
There are several seals in/around the seal plate for that pump. One or more could simply be worn. They make a rebuild kit (go-kit) similar to THIS ONE that you can purchase to try and eliminate any water leaks. Might be worth a shot.

As for your test results, they appear to be from a local store and not one of the test kits we recommend members to get on their own (TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C). So definitely make sure to get your own test kit as soon as you can. As such, those numbers are questionable, but if they are close, your pH is too high (should be mid 7s) and your FC is too low and you could get algae. For that CYA, your FC need to be more like in the 5-7 range - never below 3. See the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
 

Noli

Member
May 17, 2018
18
Frederick/MD
Thanks for the info, Texas Splash! The new water test kit and pump rebuild kit are both on their way!

I took the pump apart today and noticed a very corroded area around the motor shaft after I took off the seal plate. There was a thin flat gasket around the shaft - but again, much corrosion behind the gasket. Is this a sealing surface? If so, then I may be looking at a new pump? Yikes!

How do I add pictures? I must be doing something wrong as the site says I've exceeded my quota. In the meantime, I'm trying to link a picture of the corroded pump (Google Photos).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DI2bWO9eoq220PQj1
 

Noli

Member
May 17, 2018
18
Frederick/MD
Thanks! The Taylor K-2006C kit arrived yesterday. I feel like I'll need to wear a white lab coat when I'm working up the concoctions - haha!!

I'm about 2 or 3 days away from receiving my pump rebuild kit. Should I wait to test the water until my pump is back up and running - or is there an advantage of getting info now? I'm thinking that I should wait because without circulation, I shouldn't be adding chemicals to the pool - correct?

Thanks again for the advice!
 

Noli

Member
May 17, 2018
18
Frederick/MD
Thanks - but I shouldn't add chemicals to adjust pH until my pump is running...correct?

That's probably a dumb question but since I'm new to this, figured I'd throw it out there. :p
 

niteshift38

Silver Supporter
Bronze Supporter
Jun 10, 2017
186
Hamburg/NY
I wouldn't add anything until you do your own tests (mixing with a brush or something before won't hurt) EXCEPT at least a gallon of chlorine and mixing after. Not sure how to mix it in that pool ... others have more experience and will chime in. Pool store readings are NOT to be trusted.
 

Noli

Member
May 17, 2018
18
Frederick/MD
Was able to repair my pump - thank you! Now I have cloudy water but a decent color. Here are my numbers:

FC 1
CC 0.5
pH 7.8
TA 120
CH 260
CYA 35

This is with a Taylor K-2006C kit. Looks like I need to SLAM!
 

Noli

Member
May 17, 2018
18
Frederick/MD
Love it!! Between coaching my son's baseball team, watching the Capitals win the Stanley Cup, roasting a pig, yard work, and cooler rainy days, my job as the pool boy has had to take a backseat recently - LOL!!! I'm all loaded up with 8 bottles of Walmart's finest chlorine bleach! Picking up a bottle of muriatic acid on the way home to get back at it!! I'm close...I can feel it!! :p
 

kcindc

Gold Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
Sep 2, 2011
1,299
Fairfax, VA
Hi Neighbor!

When your FC is above 10, the PH test is unreliable and will result in falsely high results. Test the PH before you SLAM and assume it will stay that way while you SLAM with bleach. Bleach is pretty neutral when it comes to SLAMing. Try to avoid running any water features until you are at the end of your SLAM. Water features increase PH, but you will want to run them to kill anything lurking in the lines, so do it at the end.

While SLAMing you can just test the FC and CC.

GO CAPS!!!!
 

Noli

Member
May 17, 2018
18
Frederick/MD
Here are my numbers. Do I need to increase my CYA before shocking?

FC=0
CC=2
pH=7.4
TA=100
CH=240
CYA= <30 (black dot still present but barely)

Thanks - have a party tonight an the kids want to get in the pool!! i'm not feeling any pressure!! :(
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Before starting your SLAM Process, you do want to ensure your CYA is at least 30. Double check because earlier it was about 35 right? Your pH is right at the top end of a pre-SLAM level. You might consider adding just a little muriatic acid to bring it down a hair to 7.2. But other than that, increase the FC to 12 and keep it going. Check often at first (every hour or so) until you see the FC is holding better, then you can space the intervals out further.

As for the party, if you get the stabilizer in there ASAP so you know it's a solid CYA of 30, then the elevated FC of 12 is not a problem. If you elect to let the FC fall a little for all the kids, it's not going to effect the overall SLAM either, but don't go any lower than about 6-8. As soon as the party is over, maintain that FC of 12. If later you find the CYA to be closer to 40, increase the FC to 16. Good luck!
 

Noli

Member
May 17, 2018
18
Frederick/MD
I've since tested the CYA twice and I don't see the black dot disappear - that first test (CYA=35) the black dot went away during swirling but not after it settled down and I have since determined that that is not the correct way to conduct the test. I now have a sock in the pool with stabilizer. Will add a little muriatic acid to lower the pH. Thanks again and I'll report back with my results!!
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Will add a little muriatic acid to lower the pH. Thanks again and I'll report back with my results!!
Sounds good. And if this helps .......
CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Use the mixing bottle to gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Recommend standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body at waist level. Then, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. To help the eyes and prevent staring at the dot, some people find it better to pour & view in stages. Pour some solution into the viewing tube, look away, then look back again for the dot. Repeat as necessary until you feel the dot is gone. After the first CYA test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, gently shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate your own CYA reading.
 

Noli

Member
May 17, 2018
18
Frederick/MD
Good stuff - thanks! Very confident that my CYA is above 30 and close to 35 or so. Do I round up to 40 when looking at CYA/chlorine chart? Thanks!