Hooking up the fountain now, thanks a bunch...Figure out a way to aerate your pool to raise your pH. Learn how to do that and see how it works by raising your pH to around 7.2-7.4. That way you have it in your tool box to use instead of the PM recommendation for borax.
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PH - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Aeration - Further Reading
Feeling a bit Gun Shy
- Thread starter Renob
- Start date
today will be day 3 with the cover off here are the numbers and pool math results.
Please review my results and provide feedback do I need to add the baking soda and 14lbs of Calcium Chlioride? I just added the 10% bleach oh and I have the fountain going to help with the pH
FC 3.5 pool math says to add 86oz bleach
TA 60 pool math says to add 2 lbs of baking soda
CYA 40 pool mast says at target
pH 7.2 Im running the pool fountain
CH 60 pool math says to add 14lbs of Calcium Chlioride???
below are the numbers from day one.
PH 7.2
CL Br .5
CYA 20
CH 60
TA 80
FC I added R-0870 powder to the 10mil of water and it stayed clear.
Pool math says to add 1 lb and 13.0 ox of Borax 20 for the PH
Pool math says to add 14lbs of calcium chloride for the CH
Pool math says to add 36oz of dry stabilizer for the CYA what is dry stabilizer?
Pool math said to lower TA reduce pH to 7.0-7.2 its 7.2 now.
For the FC reading I used 0 in pool math being when I ran the text the water stayed clear, pool math says to add 86oz of Bleach 10%
Please review my results and provide feedback do I need to add the baking soda and 14lbs of Calcium Chlioride? I just added the 10% bleach oh and I have the fountain going to help with the pH
FC 3.5 pool math says to add 86oz bleach
TA 60 pool math says to add 2 lbs of baking soda
CYA 40 pool mast says at target
pH 7.2 Im running the pool fountain
CH 60 pool math says to add 14lbs of Calcium Chlioride???
below are the numbers from day one.
PH 7.2
CL Br .5
CYA 20
CH 60
TA 80
FC I added R-0870 powder to the 10mil of water and it stayed clear.
Pool math says to add 1 lb and 13.0 ox of Borax 20 for the PH
Pool math says to add 14lbs of calcium chloride for the CH
Pool math says to add 36oz of dry stabilizer for the CYA what is dry stabilizer?
Pool math said to lower TA reduce pH to 7.0-7.2 its 7.2 now.
For the FC reading I used 0 in pool math being when I ran the text the water stayed clear, pool math says to add 86oz of Bleach 10%
Once I get the cya right I stop testing for it...for a while anyway. You don’t need to test for calcium because you have a vinyl liner correct?. The range for mine is 0-650, I think It’s 100 right now. Keep that fc up and you should be fine. The fountain will raise the pH. After a while of fc testing you should pretty much know how much to add every day...I use the simple fc test most of the time after everything is running smoothly but I also use a swg.
- Jul 17, 2019
- 3,714
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
FC is still your number one priority, the rest is just fine.
In our area, pH will rise on its own. Most people here are continually fighting to keep it down to where you are at now and would kill for a pH of 7.2.
TA of 60 is fine, that is what is helping keep your pH from rising as quickly. A range of 50-90 is good.
Stop worrying about low calcium. That only applies to gunite/plaster pools. If the CH is too low in those pools it will leech from the plaster into the water, which weakens the plaster. Your pool is a resin pool and you dont have to worry about it. All additional calcium will do is make your water harder and more prone to white spots/scaling.
In our area, pH will rise on its own. Most people here are continually fighting to keep it down to where you are at now and would kill for a pH of 7.2.
TA of 60 is fine, that is what is helping keep your pH from rising as quickly. A range of 50-90 is good.
Stop worrying about low calcium. That only applies to gunite/plaster pools. If the CH is too low in those pools it will leech from the plaster into the water, which weakens the plaster. Your pool is a resin pool and you dont have to worry about it. All additional calcium will do is make your water harder and more prone to white spots/scaling.
Ok no more worrying about calcium being my pool is vinyl.
So I added the 86oz of bleach 3 hours ago and here are my numbers.
CYA 40
ph 7.4
FC 9 it seems to have spiked but my guess is it will drop in few hours.
Thanks a TON for all the help it is very much appreciated.
So I added the 86oz of bleach 3 hours ago and here are my numbers.
CYA 40
ph 7.4
FC 9 it seems to have spiked but my guess is it will drop in few hours.
Thanks a TON for all the help it is very much appreciated.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,475
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You would rather be high on your FC target then low. Any FC level up to SLAM level in the FC/CYA Levels is safe to swim.
The one thing I keep seeing missing that no one else has mentioned is TEMPERATURE.
The CYA test is swayed by the water temp. (As I have found out here in Alabama)
The CYA test is swayed by the water temp. (As I have found out here in Alabama)
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,475
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
From CYA Testing - Cold Test Water Should be Room Temperature for CYA Test
Taylor Technologies has run the pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, free chlorine, and cyanuric acid tests on known standard solutions at approximately 104°F, 75°F, 60°F, and 40°F. Only at 40°F did the CYA standard solution test higher than its actual value (after accounting for test variability). All other tests were unaffected by temperature differences.
And yet Empirical data collected by yours truly seems to contradict that. If I test my CYA when the water temp is <70, I will come up with a result that is low.
Once I warm the water to >=70 it tests higher.
I have been doing this for a couple of years, and have found the results to be constantly the same.
Therefore, I don't test my CYA unless the water temp is 70+.
Once I warm the water to >=70 it tests higher.
I have been doing this for a couple of years, and have found the results to be constantly the same.
Therefore, I don't test my CYA unless the water temp is 70+.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,475
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
It is not that inconsistent. We recommend that the water be left to warm to room temperature before the CYA test. So anyone following our recommendation would not observe what you are.
Only the 60 degree data point is in question between your observation and Taylor Technologies. Taylor now seems to say at Questions In Our Pool/Spa Mailbag
Do pool or spa water samples have to be at "room temperature" before testing begins?
For consistency, reliability, and accuracy, we recommend sample temperatures to be between 50-90℉. Sample temperatures <50℉ or >90℉ may produce unexpected color development.
You can write Taylor at their website and ask them about what you are observing.
Only the 60 degree data point is in question between your observation and Taylor Technologies. Taylor now seems to say at Questions In Our Pool/Spa Mailbag
Do pool or spa water samples have to be at "room temperature" before testing begins?
For consistency, reliability, and accuracy, we recommend sample temperatures to be between 50-90℉. Sample temperatures <50℉ or >90℉ may produce unexpected color development.
You can write Taylor at their website and ask them about what you are observing.