faulty check valve, yes ?

tstex

Silver Supporter
Aug 28, 2012
2,177
Houston, TX
Hello to all,

I believe I have a check valve that failed. it seems that the valve door stays in the same position regardless of the water flow using pool or spa.

The first picture is a close-up of the valve, the next pic is a position pic of where it is located [btw the puck feeder and the heater-note, pucks are only used to raise CYA when appropriate] Note, the pic of the ck-valve close up is while the pump was off.

Can someone pls recommend the appropriate type of Jandy Ck-valve by model type? I am not going back to this model.

As far as replacement, I was going to hack-saw the PVC as close to each side of the current ck-valve to remove it. Then get the appropriate amt of PVC and one coupling, unscrew the out-bound union of the heater, then cut to fit and install the new ck-valve. Do the unions on the heater have O-rings? If so, I have the appropriate silicone to lube it. Going to need to find a huge wrench to remove and re-install the union.

Pls let me know if this sounds right or any other advice. I am assuming the same type of PVC glue and primer as reg PVC.

Thanks again, tstex
 

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ts,

I see no problem replacing the valve with a Jandy check valve, but just want to make sure I understand the problem you are having..

That valve will only close if the pump is off.. It has nothing to do with the pool/spa relationship..

Are you saying that when the pump is off the valve does not close?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
ts,

I see no problem replacing the valve with a Jandy check valve, but just want to make sure I understand the problem you are having..

That valve will only close if the pump is off.. It has nothing to do with the pool/spa relationship..

Are you saying that when the pump is off the valve does not close?

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks Jim.

Sorry for confusion. My point was regardless of the water flow from and when it's off too, the door stays in the up position as seen in the picture. I stated the pic taken was w the pump off, and it seems like the valve door has detached and is floating at the top regardless of direction. Does the first pic provide an ample view of the door floating, or do o need to take some additional shots?

Finally, since this Ck valve is btw heater & puck dispenser, it needs to be robust,,yes ? Does Jandy make diff types of valves for greater protection against back flow of CL from pucks? Thx again.
 
ts,

I just did not understand what I was looking at in your pics... :rolleyes:

If the gate is always up then it makes perfect sense to replace that old check valve with a Jandy... Like this one... https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjL54DxpqffAhUPtcAKHS-rBGIYABAeGgJpbQ&sig=AOD64_2Ad_HSZyTXlu8Gs9lxfflTVye4QQ&ctype=5&rct=j&q=&ved=0ahUKEwiAkPrwpqffAhVELK0KHTk5CYcQ9aACCFk&adurl=https://www.amazon.com/Jandy-Plumbing-Swing-Check-176201/dp/B07CDCGXFT/ref%3Dasc_df_B07CDCGXFT/%3Ftag%3Dhyprod-20%26linkCode%3Ddf0%26hvadid%3D312115052556%26hvpos%3D1o4%26hvnetw%3Dg%26hvrand%3D4255257762294478736%26hvpone%3D%26hvptwo%3D%26hvqmt%3D%26hvdev%3Dc%26hvdvcmdl%3D%26hvlocint%3D%26hvlocphy%3D9027205%26hvtargid%3Dpla-568548323934%26psc%3D1

I am not a Jandy Valve expert, but it appears to me the differences are only size of pipe, and if the valve is straight through, or at a 90 degree corner..

Or... you could just take the tab feeder out and you would not need a check valve at all... :p

Jim R.
 
Thanks Jim.

My piping is 2.5" [circumference is 8" 8/Pi = 8/3.14 = 2.54"]

I will order this valve in the 2.5" version w the straight thru version...I'm also going to move the valve a bit further towards the elbow of the heater so if I need to remove the screws in the future, it would be blocked by the inbound line from the filter into the spa.

Finally, is there anything I need to be cautious about when undoing the inbound coupling to the heater?

Also, since this line is under pressure, how long do I need to let the glue set-up?

Anything else? I am overly cautious when it comes to pressured lines and removing unions...

Thanks again, tstex
 
ts.

It appears to me that you have 2" plumbing. The valve I listed can be used with 2" plumbing (inside connection) or 2.5" plumbing (outside connection)..

There is just not that much pressure after the heater.. I'd wait an hour. If you want to go crazy wait until the next day..

I like the idea of moving the valve so that you can open it.

You will, of course, have to drain your system down so that the pipe you are gluing has no water on it or in it...

That is about all there is to it..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Thanks Jim - I'll order the 2" ID PVC

Yes, I'll also drain my cartridge filtering system and clean the filters while it's drying - that usually takes 2-2.5hrs, so that should be good enough

Thanks again - tstex
 
ts,

I was going to suggest that you clean your filters while you had it open... but, I was unsure of your weather.. I like to do mine when it is warm enough to get wet.. I get soaked when I clean mine... :p

Jim R.
 
Finally, is there anything I need to be cautious about when undoing the inbound coupling to the heater?

Anything else? I am overly cautious when it comes to pressured lines and removing unions...


The unions do have a large O-ring fitted - so you can lightly lube this with O-ring safe lube when reassembling.

The collar on the unions should be only done up hand tight - Do not use tools to tighten these when reassembling.

Sometimes you may get a stubborn one when trying to undo - You may need some large channel locks etc depending on how small/large your arm muscles are... :D

If using channel locks to unscrew - protect the screw-on outer collars with a rag etc to stop the jaws from marking them.
 

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