Great. I'll hold off doing anything on that front then until I get my test kit in hand and can test the alkalinity myself.Correct.
Be careful not to confuse two effects of TA:Today pH reads 7.7 (so only up 0.1 since yesterday morning). Safe to say the TA can't possibly be that low if pH is reasonably stable like this (as you were saying earlier)?
i was under the assumption that because i have a spillover that is running for around 10 hours a day (3 of which are with the pump on high speed and a good deal of aeration), i'm always going to have some drift upwards. are you saying even with that i should be aiming to have it staying constant over a period of a few days?But not because "pH is reasonable stable" as you concluded, but because 0.1 is still a considerable drift for just one day.
When you compare measurements from one morning to the next morning (i.e. at the same points within your cycle of chlorine use and creation), you would primarily see the steady pH-rise due to CO2 out-gassing. Small rise from morning to morning means TA should not be too high.
10-4. i'll report back as soon as i have my kit in hand and can test the TA (and the pH for that matter as well) manually myself.You are right there, there will always be aeration driving pH up. I only wanted to point out that this drift is larger with higher TA. There is more CO2 in the water at higher TA to out-gas. It is not the stabilising effect of TA that reduces the drift, but the higher CO2 in the water at higher TAs that increase the drift. You can minimise the drift by having TA not too high. 0.3 per day is certainly a lot. 0.1 still sounds on the high side, but might be what's required for your pool. Important is to test TA with the kit you ordered, then we'll know if the drift can be reduced.
i'm ok to leave it at 7.8 for now though and not add acid until it drifts up to 8 though, right? at least until we figure out what the TA actually is...A pH of 7.8 is much closer to what water has as an equilibrium. If the TA is in the 70 range, that could be a place it settles. Though you will be adding fill water due to evaporation and most likely that fill water has a higher TA.
haven't seen any flakes coming off yet, but scaling is a concern. there's already significant buildup on the faux rocks around the waterline that i'm getting estimates on having stripped / cleaned and repainted...so i want to make sure i keep it from scaling in the future once i have that done.A high pH only really effects the scaling tendency. So if your IC40 starts to shed calcium flakes, then lower the pH to 7.6.
It's not just pH. If your CH and TA was very high, then scaling can occur already at lower pH. Play around with the numbers in PoolMath and see what the effects of the water parameters (including temperature) on CSI are.that being said, i don't know what the previous water conditions were to cause that scale...so it's possible it was left to sit higher than 7.8 for extended periods.
i didn't calculate it, pool logger did. i didn't do the salt test yet, as i ordered a salt kit with the TF100 but it was out of stock. that actually reminds me i need to e-mail them and find out when it'll be in stock.That doesn't look too bad, well done. FC maybe a tad higher as a target for CYA=60.
How do you calculate the CSI, that value doesn't make sense to me, should me more like -0.1 or -0.14 at 90F water temperature, depending on your salt level. Are you using PoolMath? Maybe you added an extra 0 for the salt level? The pH is actually not bad where it is. With this CH-level, you want to be in the lower 7-range.
ok, i'm correct at 49 drops (and 1225 calculated value) then. i thought i was done at 49 but added one more to get to 50...but that didn't change the color so i stuck with 49.For the CH measurement: It is important to swirl thoroughly after each drop. It's a bit tricky to drop and swirl at the same time. You have to add drops until the colour doesn't change anymore. Sometimes you think it has turned blue, but another drop will still change the shade of blue. If it's turned blue, add another drop. If that last drop still changes the shade of blue, then add another one. Once the blue doesn't change anymore, you have reached the endpoint, and you don't count that last drop, that didn't cause further colour changes. The whole sample needs to have changed colour, that's where good swirling is important. Sometimes it starts changing around the drop, but once the drop has been diluted into the sample, the colour changes back.
same problem with the speedstir as i had with the salt...it was out of stock when i ordered. i plan to grab one when they're back in stock.Especially the TA and CH tests are a lot easier with the speedstir (magnetic stirrer). You get instant mixing and quick and homogeneous colour changes. Especially with higher test levels, I also had the issue that I kept forgetting my drop count while I was concentrating on swirling and colour watching. With the speedstir, I can focus on counting.