Equipment pad plumbing 1.5 or 2”

Apr 23, 2018
14
Ada
New home with an old pool. Im adding SWG, so I have to rework some of the plumbing anyway. At the very least, im going to reconfigure a bit to get rid of several couplings and elbow. While I’m at it, should I just go ahead and do everything in 2” vs the existing 1.5”?
 

Attachments

  • FB7D1FF4-6AAF-4008-B912-01706E81272E.jpeg
    FB7D1FF4-6AAF-4008-B912-01706E81272E.jpeg
    658.5 KB · Views: 87
Not sure if it makes a difference as all the underground PVC is going to be 1.5". I am in a similar situation. Ideally 2" or even bigger with sweep elbows to maximize flow throughout the pool. You will have to reduce back to 1.5 at the filter and pump input/output.
 
Are you planning on digging up any of teh pipes going to the pool, or just work on what is at the pad above ground level?
If the latter, I don't see any gain to going to 2". It would cost more than 1.5", and you wouldn't have any gain from it.
 
Are you planning on digging up any of teh pipes going to the pool, or just work on what is at the pad above ground level?
If the latter, I don't see any gain to going to 2". It would cost more than 1.5", and you wouldn't have any gain from it.

Ron might be thinking the same thing I am.

On the suction side, you have two 1.5 inch pipes...since you probably plan on leaving both open to some extent, you effectively have more than 2” piping when they are both drawing in parallel. The pump experts should probably confirm this but I think I’ve read that if you are going to increase piping size, the biggest bang for the buck is on the suction side and it’s good for the pump. I would run both those 1.5 inches lines into a 2” manifold that uses a 2” 3-way valve to select between them (or both full open) to feed the pump. I personally would do this irregardless of the next paragraph.

On the return side, if you are willing and able to dig and find the “tee” where the 1.5” return lines separate (mine was in the ground just below surface) you can effectively increase your return piping size by running 2” pipe to a new 2” tee (replaces existing tee), that then feeds those two 1.5” return lines. Or, it might make more sense to bring those 1.5” lines back to the equipment pad and once again use a 2” manifold with a 2” 3-way valve to select flow to them (or both full open). If you are able to do that (and implement the prior paragraph), then replumping the entire pad with 2” piping would probably make perfect sense.
 
Last edited:
jonpcar - sounds like a great idea and I am tempted to do that too. However would this not reduce (lose efficiency) where it enters/leaves the 1.5" pump and enters/leaves the 1.5" filter unless those have 2" ports? I have a similar setup and would have loved a 2" or bigger conduits
 
mzuri, yeah...sorry, I wasn’t even thinking about the interfaces on the equipment. When I redid my pad, I replaced all my equipment, and didn’t run into that scenario. Ideally the equipment would have 2” interfaces as well, otherwise you would lose some efficiency and probably some justification for making the upgrade...good catch.
 
mzuri, yeah...sorry, I wasn’t even thinking about the interfaces on the equipment. When I redid my pad, I replaced all my equipment, and didn’t run into that scenario. Ideally the equipment would have 2” interfaces as well, otherwise you would lose some efficiency and probably some justification for making the upgrade...good catch.
I know. I have anguished about this all the time and cannot justify replacing all my equipment just to get those 2" or larger pipes :(
 
Ron might be thinking the same thing I am.

On the suction side, you have two 1.5 inch pipes...

This was exactly my thought. Ditch the ball valve, tie both suction lines into a 1-1/2”x2” 3-way diverter valve before the pump. I’ve read everything I can find on the topic, but it still isn’t clear. My line of thinking is that I already have to cut out the section from the filter to the returns, it wouldn’t be much more work to replace the suction side. Yes, the pump and filter will still be 1.5” “choke points,” which will limit max flow rate, but I can still significantly reduce head, reducing Electrical draw on the pump motor. In addition, when the pump and filter or filter control need replacing (both are quite old) I can easily make the switch to 2” equipment.

On the returns, I would be quite certain my T is under the concrete deck. Nothing I would touch now but I plan on doing significant hardscaping around the pool in the next 2yrs, so I would strongly consider doing it at that point.

Thanks for the input.
 
  • Like
Reactions: markayash
If it were my system, I would go for it. I didn’t realize that they had the 3way diverter s with 1.5” inputs and a 2” output. That makes it simpler. Make sure it is a jandy type valve that accepts an actuator because you might want to add valve automation at some point.p and don’t want to go through this again.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Yes, the one I was looking at is Jandy 4945. It’s a 3 port, and each port is 1.5” ID and 2” OD so you can put a 2” coupler on any of the ports to accept 2” pipe (pretty neat design) and it does accept an actuator. Thanks again, pretty much confirmed my line of thinking, no real reason not to do it, even if the efficiency gain is minimal, I’ll gain better control via the 3way diverter vs the single ball valve existing.
 
I was faced with needing a new pump...
After a bunch of research... decided on a 2 speed pump with 2" in/out...
Did what was suggested above on the suction side...
And when I took things apart, found on the output of the pump... the previous install had 1.5" pipe inside the 2" pipe...
Strange.
Anyhow... the new system has 2x 1.5" suctions from the skimmers going into a 2" 3wy valve... with 2" to the pump... then 2" all the way back to the feed to the returns.
Feeling the water going down the skimmer throat and coming out of the jets... methinks it did make a small improvement.

BTW: changed from a 1 HP Pentair SuperFlo with 1.5" fittings... to a Pentair WhisperFlo 2 speed with 2" fittings... same HP...
And yes... the WhisperFlo is very quiet!
 
I ended up redoing all of the equipment pad plumbing. I discovered a significant crack in the pump housing, so it just made sense to redo everything. Besides upsizing, I was able to eliminate 1 ell on the suction side, 3 on the return side, and with the Jandy valve I have full control of both the main and skimmer. Here’s the before and after. I had a nice clean install until I accidentally kicked over a can of purple primer and it went everywhere...
 

Attachments

  • A11F6815-1A32-4427-8362-6FDC53F8E835.jpeg
    A11F6815-1A32-4427-8362-6FDC53F8E835.jpeg
    563 KB · Views: 83
  • 86AFCFF5-5C33-4CE2-A764-8A1036512B4F.jpeg
    86AFCFF5-5C33-4CE2-A764-8A1036512B4F.jpeg
    710.2 KB · Views: 84
  • Like
Reactions: Soupy
jonpcar - sounds like a great idea and I am tempted to do that too. However would this not reduce (lose efficiency) where it enters/leaves the 1.5" pump and enters/leaves the 1.5" filter unless those have 2" ports? I have a similar setup and would have loved a 2" or bigger conduits
On my equipment pad, my heater and filter are 20+ years old, and the pump will likely be replaced with a variable speed unit sooner or later. So even though all my plumbing is 1.5", I'd still redo everything in 2", knowing that I will eventually upgrade all the equipment to 2".
 
On my equipment pad, my heater and filter are 20+ years old, and the pump will likely be replaced with a variable speed unit sooner or later. So even though all my plumbing is 1.5", I'd still redo everything in 2", knowing that I will eventually upgrade all the equipment to 2".
That was my plan as well. The pump ended up getting replaced sooner than expected. Now the bottle neck is my filter, which is a 24" hayward with 1.5" plumbing. I had looked at upsizing that multiport valve, but if you look at the specs, the max flow rate is the same based on the 24" filter tank, so I would have to upsize the entire unit to gain anything there. I'll make that call down the road if and when I need to look at replacing the entire unit.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Soupy
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.