Emptying pool and refilling

aztony

Bronze Supporter
Oct 10, 2012
146
Maricopa, Arizona
#1
Hi all. I have a SWP 10k gal. The waters at least 3 years old, figured it's time to change the water. Just wondering should I scrub down the walls and if so, with what? The walls don't look bad except at the water line where there's a white line. How many bags of salt do you think I should add after the pool is full? Thanks.
 

woodyp

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 17, 2010
10,227
East Texas
#2
No reason to change the water. Have you operated this pool since install in 2011? Can you post us up some test results and how they were obtained. Waterline is probably calcium scale---need test results. Where do you maintain your PH level?
 
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aztony

Bronze Supporter
Oct 10, 2012
146
Maricopa, Arizona
#3
No reason to change the water. Have you operated this pool since install in 2011? Can you post us up some test results and how they were obtained. Waterline is probably calcium scale---need test results. Where do you maintain your PH level?
Hi woodyp, thanks for the reply. To answer your first question, yes. The pool is used every summer, especially here in the Phoenix, AZ area. Too late, the pool is already empty or almost. As for the numbers, I had a pool company take care of that stuff, so don't actually know. I decided to save some money by doing it myself and got rid of the pool company. Just ordered the TF-100 kit. So will see how that goes.
 

Richard320

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 6, 2010
20,328
San Dimas, CA (LA County)
#4
I decided to save some money by doing it myself and got rid of the pool company. Just ordered the TF-100 kit. So will see how that goes.
:kim: :goodjob:

Starting with a clean slate! Outstanding!

The scale at the water line should lift with a pumice stone, elbow grease, beer, and motrin, You might also try 1:3 Muriatic Acid/Water mix in a spray bottle to dissolve things and a scrub brush.

The pumice stone sound horrible -- fingernails on a chalkboard times ten -- but I never saw any scratch marks on my tile. Either treatment is best done with lots of water nearby.. You want to wet-sand with the pumice, and if you spray acid mix on and it runs down the dry walls you may get streaks. The pumice will leave masses of grit behind as it disintegrates.

Maybe do it while it's filling, so you can have the hose stream nearby? Or just wait until the pool is refilled.

Poolmath will crunch numbers when you have some test results and tell you how much of each to add. I suggest you read Pool School - PoolMath before you just start using it. You might miss some key features otherwise. Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals will tell you what to add and how to add it. I'd undershoot on the CYA and the salt because your pool might not be as big as you think and it's real easy to add more later, but you don't want to drain more to lower them.
 
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aztony

Bronze Supporter
Oct 10, 2012
146
Maricopa, Arizona
#5
:kim: :goodjob:

Starting with a clean slate! Outstanding!

The scale at the water line should lift with a pumice stone, elbow grease, beer, and motrin, You might also try 1:3 Muriatic Acid/Water mix in a spray bottle to dissolve things and a scrub brush.

The pumice stone sound horrible -- fingernails on a chalkboard times ten -- but I never saw any scratch marks on my tile. Either treatment is best done with lots of water nearby.. You want to wet-sand with the pumice, and if you spray acid mix on and it runs down the dry walls you may get streaks. The pumice will leave masses of grit behind as it disintegrates.

Maybe do it while it's filling, so you can have the hose stream nearby? Or just wait until the pool is refilled.

Poolmath will crunch numbers when you have some test results and tell you how much of each to add. I suggest you read Pool School - PoolMath before you just start using it. You might miss some key features otherwise. Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals will tell you what to add and how to add it. I'd undershoot on the CYA and the salt because your pool might not be as big as you think and it's real easy to add more later, but you don't want to drain more to lower them.
Lol, like the idea of the beer but that's about it. I don't have a pumice stone, I could pick one up tomorrow when I return the pump to Ace. Using acid and water won't I have to worry about skin burns/irritations from the acid, particularly on eyes, hands, and arms, probably legs too? I'll check out the Pool School. Thanks.
 

spinPHD

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2017
500
Phoenix
#6
Since it doesn't look bad, I would just starting refilling back up as soon as possible. It's getting hot again this week and could hit 100 by the weekend. You don't want your plaster pool exposed to that hot of temps for that long.
 

triptyx

TFP Guide
Apr 12, 2016
1,485
Tucson, AZ
#7
Lol, like the idea of the beer but that's about it. I don't have a pumice stone, I could pick one up tomorrow when I return the pump to Ace. Using acid and water won't I have to worry about skin burns/irritations from the acid, particularly on eyes, hands, and arms, probably legs too? I'll check out the Pool School. Thanks.
Yes. You'll want to be careful not to get it into your eyes or allow prolonged contact on your skin. Spray carefully and have some clean water nearby to dunk in if you get too much on yourself.

Since it doesn't look bad, I would just starting refilling back up as soon as possible. It's getting hot again this week and could hit 100 by the weekend. You don't want your plaster pool exposed to that hot of temps for that long.
Spin has a very good point here - don't let the plaster dry out, especially in the heat we have coming this week. Make sure you're keeping the plaster moist at all times.
 
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aztony

Bronze Supporter
Oct 10, 2012
146
Maricopa, Arizona
#8
Since it doesn't look bad, I would just starting refilling back up as soon as possible. It's getting hot again this week and could hit 100 by the weekend. You don't want your plaster pool exposed to that hot of temps for that long.
Thanks. The pool is Pebble-Tec, not plaster, don't know if that matters or not. The pool has been filling since last night. Takes about 2.5 days if I remember correctly. It's about half full now.

- - - Updated - - -

So, do you not have to empty the pool every 3 - 4 years? I was told you should because of the hard water we have here in AZ.
 

jasnovanorder

Bronze Supporter
Jul 2, 2015
201
Hamilton Michigan
#9
Thanks. The pool is Pebble-Tec, not plaster, don't know if that matters or not. The pool has been filling since last night. Takes about 2.5 days if I remember correctly. It's about half full now.

- - - Updated - - -

So, do you not have to empty the pool every 3 - 4 years? I was told you should because of the hard water we have here in AZ.

Only had an above ground vinyl for a couple years so not familiar with plaster in grounds but the only time I have seen on here the need to drain a pool would be from high CYA. You said you had a pool company take care of your pool that might be the reason why they say drain and refill every 3-4 years because they know the stuff they use will raise the CYA to a point that they cant keep it from going green.
 

duraleigh

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
In The Industry
Apr 1, 2007
31,387
Sebring, Florida
#10
Actually, CH accumulation in AZ is the primary reason for drain/refill. the tap water is often CH = 200-300 and continues to accumulate.

First of all, I would start spraying the walls. Pebble Tec is plaster (for chem purposes) an it it will certainly crack if you let it dry out too much. Congrats on having the foresight to order the TF-100.....it is central to what we teach. Post your test numbers when it gets in and we'll all help you manage that pool.
 
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aztony

Bronze Supporter
Oct 10, 2012
146
Maricopa, Arizona
#11
Actually, CH accumulation in AZ is the primary reason for drain/refill. the tap water is often CH = 200-300 and continues to accumulate.

First of all, I would start spraying the walls. Pebble Tec is plaster (for chem purposes) an it it will certainly crack if you let it dry out too much. Congrats on having the foresight to order the TF-100.....it is central to what we teach. Post your test numbers when it gets in and we'll all help you manage that pool.
The pool is almost full, a few more inches to go. Do you think I should at least throw a bag or two of salt in while I'm waiting for the test kit to arrive, which won't be until the 9th if it's on time. I put in new cartridge filters and cleaned out the cell already. Waiting for the water to get skimmer level so I can start up the pump, hopefully with no water leaking.
 
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aztony

Bronze Supporter
Oct 10, 2012
146
Maricopa, Arizona
#14
Did you turn your light on while the water was below it? I did that and it blew out.
Actually, I did just for a few seconds to make sure it was working, then turned it off. Now every time I go to turn it on, the breaker shuts off. I doubt a burned out bulb would cause the breaker to blow, would it? Maybe I need to replace the breaker.
 
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aztony

Bronze Supporter
Oct 10, 2012
146
Maricopa, Arizona
#16
The curcuit breaker is blowing or the GFCI is blowing? Low voltage or 120 light?
Umm, nevermind, the GFCI had to be reset. I forgot about that. :uhh::uhh:

Anyway, the pool is full, pump is up and running, slight leak at the cell, had to resit it. Added bag and half of salt. Probably going to need to add another bag or two.
 
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aztony

Bronze Supporter
Oct 10, 2012
146
Maricopa, Arizona
#18
So, got my test kit. I was wondering before I start testing and since the water is fresh, should I be adding anything to the pool besides the salt I added, which is now reading at 2900? Should I add acid maybe bleach first? Otherwise, won't the readings all be way off from where they should be?
 
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aztony

Bronze Supporter
Oct 10, 2012
146
Maricopa, Arizona
#20
Okay, hopefully I did it right, so here's what I have:

Cl - <.5
pH - >8.2
CH - 400
TA - 70 (more pink then a red)
CYA - >20 Still see the black dot when tube filled
FC - .5
CC - 0
Salt - 2900