Does Jacks Stain ID work well? and pumice for removing stains on Vinyl stairs and liners?

Rockstead

Well-known member
Sep 2, 2010
407
Montreal, QC, Canada
I’ve been dealing with some pesky stains on my stairs and around fixtures for the last few years, neither Acid or Vitamin C based product seemed to help.

I need to re-assess, would you recommend Jacks stain ID?

I also read some articles on using a pumice stone for removing those rust like stains from white vinyl stairs, any issues with that approach before I order some?

Thank you!
 

Rockstead

Well-known member
Sep 2, 2010
407
Montreal, QC, Canada
Do you have pictures?

Yes I do :)

You can see it’s thick in the light fixture rim.

Products that were AA based and Muriatic Acid had no affect.

I’m certain it’s due to some welding that was done on a wrought iron fence.
 

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revitup

Gold Supporter
Bronze Supporter
Nov 30, 2019
432
Pawleys Island, SC
Pool Size
8500
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Vitamin c had no effect on my stains either but Jack’s Stain ID identified them as iron/copper. I followed the Jack’s procedure for 'Iron Scale Treatment' and the stains were removed completely. Before and after below. I then did a complete water exchange using the tarp method. Easy-peasy.
 

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JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
24,112
The light rim is probably rust from the metal galvanized steel walls.

Verify that the walls are steel with a magnet.

The spots on the floor look like they are due to something under the liner coming through the liner.

The spots on the steps could be from metal cutting or grinding nearby which can throw metal particles into the water.
 

Rockstead

Well-known member
Sep 2, 2010
407
Montreal, QC, Canada
The light rim is probably rust from the metal galvanized steel walls.

Verify that the walls are steel with a magnet.

The spots on the floor look like they are due to something under the liner coming through the liner.

The spots on the steps could be from metal cutting or grinding nearby which can throw metal particles into the water.
You are spot on for the wall, The magnet didn’t stick towards the top of the liner but it did as I got lower on the wall.

For the steps, you are right again, although I didn’t realize it at the time, it seems to have started after I had work done on a wrought iron fence, same as the pool floor.

What treatment approach would you recommend for these different areas, it would be a dream to fix it.

I read online that for the stairs some people have had success with running a pumice stone.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
24,112
Pumice stone would probably damage the plastic.

A green 3 M Scotchbrite pad might work on the steps.

For the light, it's only going to come back since it's probably bleeding through from the back.

If vitamin C doesn't work, there's probably not much that can be done.
 

Rockstead

Well-known member
Sep 2, 2010
407
Montreal, QC, Canada
Pumice stone would probably damage the plastic.

A green 3 M Scotchbrite pad might work on the steps.

For the light, it's only going to come back since it's probably bleeding through from the back.

If vitamin C doesn't work, there's probably not much that can be done.
I’ve tried those 3M scotchbrite pads, like the kind you scrub a pan with and no luck at all, I even tried something a little more abrasive and it didn’t help, that’s why I’m open to the pumice stone if you think it will work.

The light and that build up only started after the last time the fence welding was done, at least later in to the season as it built up, I have similar in my skimmer and skimmer basket.

The last AA based product I tried didn’t do anything for the stairs but I’m not sure Ibtried applying it to the skimmer or light fixture.

Cost not being a factor, I’m open to buying and applying anything that would simplify the resolution, even if it’s not effective, just ruling something out would be worth the expense to me.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
24,112
I think that pumice is too aggressive, but you can try it on a spot if you want to take the risk.

I don't really know of any good methods for dealing with the existing stains.
 

Rockstead

Well-known member
Sep 2, 2010
407
Montreal, QC, Canada
I think that pumice is too aggressive, but you can try it on a spot if you want to take the risk.

I don't really know of any good methods for dealing with the existing stains.
If it’s due to the wall like you mentioned, would that wall have to replaced when changing the liner?

aren’t these walls supposed to be rust proof?
 

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JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
24,112
Galvanized steel will eventually rust.

It's really difficult to replace a wall.

You just have to try to seal it so that it stops rusting.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
24,112
How do I seal it if the liner is still good? Pool is about 12 years old
Adding a bead of aquarium silicone around the perimeter might help some, but there's no really good answer.

To add the silicone, you would need to drain below the light.

Probably not worthwhile.

If you ever drain any water, never go below the local ground water and never leave less than 6" in the shallow end.

I would not drain any water due to the risks.
 

Rockstead

Well-known member
Sep 2, 2010
407
Montreal, QC, Canada
Adding a bead of aquarium silicone around the perimeter might help some, but there's no really good answer.

To add the silicone, you would need to drain below the light.

Probably not worthwhile.

If you ever drain any water, never go below the local ground water and never leave less than 6" in the shallow end.

I would not drain any water due to the risks.
Just an update, I placed an AA type product in a sock and it didn’t lift any of the dirt anywhere, although a scotch brite was able to get rid of chunky parts, it didn’t do zilch to the surface area, even with scrubbing.

I bought a no name Metal out product, I placed my skimmer basket which had the same stains on it in a isolated bucket with tap water, so no chlorine and PH was within range and this product did nothing either to get it off the skimmer, some scotch brite scrubbing got rid of a very small amount.

Can you suggest what I should try next please.
 

Rockstead

Well-known member
Sep 2, 2010
407
Montreal, QC, Canada
I don't know what else to try.

Maybe someone else will have some ideas.
I added the AA based products I had this weekend, stuff didn’t lift off but I noticed when I scrubbed it that an extremely slight amount of the color of the rust rubbed off in certain areas, the spot remained but it lightened ever so slightly.

I don’t know if this is helpful or not, although I was able to brush away most of it from my skimmer, although some remained.
Adding that stuff really lowered my PH, based on the color I’m just above 6.8, at which point should I be raising it to an acceptable level?