I’d suggest you add some liquid chlorine to get to target and let the SWCG maintain it.
Does cya change if we have a glass filter pump
- Thread starter ivparker
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,299
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You will. Do you plan to run the pump 24/7? You do not need to, but I assume you have an Intelliflo VS pump, so you can operate it at a low rpm and still operate the SWCG.
iv,
SWCG's are good at maintaining an FC level but not all that good for going from zero to say 7 ppm..
If your CYA is only 10, there is no way the IC40 can make more chlorine than the sun can burn off.
If the "cell" light is green, the cell is making chlorine. How many of the output lights are on???
Thanks,
Jim R.
SWCG's are good at maintaining an FC level but not all that good for going from zero to say 7 ppm..
If your CYA is only 10, there is no way the IC40 can make more chlorine than the sun can burn off.
If the "cell" light is green, the cell is making chlorine. How many of the output lights are on???
Thanks,
Jim R.
I went to go take a picture of the swg but there are a whole bunch of people standing around it right now. Sprinkler and landscaping company is here. I will say we tested this morning and our fc is between 3-5. We were using the one in the small blue case. It’s so hard to see the different yellows. They all kind of look the same. Our cya still seems like less then 30. But that is a test strip. Should we put stabilizer in the pool? Just dump it in? The pool company gave us a gallon of liquid instant conditioner by Natural Chemistry. From reading stuff in pool school, we are suppose to adjust our fc by what our cya is but if we don’t have much cya, we should add it, right? I don’t think stabilizer was ever added to our water yet. It looks like the 1 gallon should only raise it by 16ppm. So we could test again after a few hours? Then add more? Thanks so much everyone.
Don’t trust the guess strips for your CYA. If (more like when) it’s wrong, you have no choice but to drain if you added too much.
Your pool people don’t know their glass from their elbow.
Your pool people don’t know their glass from their elbow.
CYA does not exist naturally in water. If you just filled the pool and have added none, then your CYA is 0. The things that add it are dry stabilizer, liquid stabilizer or stabilized chlorine. (Dry pucks)
If you don’t get your CYA up, the SWCG won’t be able to keep up with the loss from the sun’s UV.
Look at the FC/CYA chart that has been posted in this thread. It gives specific CYA and chlorine targets for SWCG pools.
FWIW, algae doesn’t care how new your water is. If you don’t reach and maintain safe FC levels, you are going to have an issue.
If you don’t get your CYA up, the SWCG won’t be able to keep up with the loss from the sun’s UV.
Look at the FC/CYA chart that has been posted in this thread. It gives specific CYA and chlorine targets for SWCG pools.
FWIW, algae doesn’t care how new your water is. If you don’t reach and maintain safe FC levels, you are going to have an issue.
Ok so I should go to a pool store and buy gallons of stabilizer/ conditioner and put it in? I just put in a gallon of conditioner that the pool builder gave us but according to the package, it may only raise us by 12 ppm considering we have a 23000 gallon pool. When we did the cya test, we filled the tube to the top and we still could see the black dot. Do that is probably because we have no cya. I did a test strip ( I know not accurate but as a newbie, so much easier for a fast check) and our chlorine is back to nothing. Probably got all eaten by the sun. Ugh!
Trust the good test. Like you said you should only have around 12 CYa which would basically be unreadable. Enter you info in PoolMath And add the proper amount to get to 30 starting at 12. You’ll probably want 40 after it settles for now until the SWG is fired up but it’s easy to overshoot so work up to the target instead of shooting for it.
You posted a picture yesterday where the strip showed a CYA reading of 50+ when you have at or near zero CYA. How is getting a completely incorrect number easier?
Stop using test strips.
Yeah, I’m not trusting the strip for the cya more for the chlorine. And not really looking at numbers but change in color should give me some indication if we are up or down. Not an actual reading.
May I ask a question? You have claimed multiple times here that you are a newbie. Ok, that's cool. We've all been there. My question is: why, as a newbie, are you intent on ignoring the advice of those of us who are not newbies and who have seen hundreds of examples of just how unreliable test strips are? Why are you arguing that they have some worth despite us telling you that they have none?
I know. I know. I just haven’t used it before. I’m a mom to 9 young kiddos. My husband has a busy week at work, so can’t help right now, and there are a whole bunch of men in my backyard doing work... so I feel weird going out there for periods of time. It’s easier to quickly put the stick in the water. Excuses excuses.
Personal safety, Or rather your feeling of safety is paramount. The test strips still are worthless and will cause far more harm than any conceivable benefit. When it’s a good time to do so, Go grab a Tupperware container and bring it inside and put it on the counter. You can test it when you have a minute and the results will be just as good.
So I went and grabbed water and did the cya test. It’s cloudier but I can still see the black dot once water is to top.
So call it 10 for now and add per PoolMath Targeting a 30. Let the pump run and mix it and test again tomorrow 
Also check the FC once everybody leaves and bump that up if need be. The sun can burn of chlorine in 30 minutes without any/enough CYA so you may need to steal a couple of FC tests tomorrow when the crew takes breaks.
Also check the FC once everybody leaves and bump that up if need be. The sun can burn of chlorine in 30 minutes without any/enough CYA so you may need to steal a couple of FC tests tomorrow when the crew takes breaks.Ok thanks. Pool math says about 1 gallon to get to 30 but 4 to get to ideal but I should just try 1 gallon at a time. The Endure Summer stuff that I posted above... I should not use, right?So call it 10 for now and add per PoolMath Targeting a 30. Let the pump run and mix it and test again tomorrow
What does the label say ? You want 100% Cyanuric acid. If it says so then it’s good.
also yes, 1 gallon of pure CYA or whatever the equivalent of granular is per pool math if you have to buy that instead. Test and add the rest if needed tomorrow.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,299
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Don't do it. The pH reducer, dry acid, you can use up as you need to reduce pH.
The other three, dispose of. Use real products, not combination items that create a chemical stew to swim in.