Did SLAM in Sept, still getting regular algae haze

flipr

0
LifeTime Supporter
Aug 20, 2015
130
Punta Gorda, FL (SW FL)
This is a new pool build, moved in November. This summer we noticed algae starting, so we focused on chemical balance. Finally in early September we did a SLAM. Took about a week keeping chlorine at SLAM levels before we could pass OCLT.

Now we are back to getting algae haze when brushing pool every 1-2 weeks. Back to using cleaner, even changed out filter for a new one. No stairs or stainless steps. I removed spa and pool lights making sure the niche's were clean.

Todays chemical test
Chlorine 11 CC 0
pH 8.2
Alk 70
CH 300
CYA 80
salt cell flows into spa first, then over flow into pool. Spa chlorine always just a tad higher or matches pool numbers when we test separately.

Looking for suggestions. Been using TFP methods for several years, never had this kind of issue at first house, this new pool is getting frustrating.
Thanks much
 
salt cell flows into spa first, then over flow into pool. Spa chlorine always just a tad higher or matches pool numbers when we test separately.

Is your spillover always running in POOL mode?

Post pics of your equipment pad and plumbing around your SWG cell.

Does you poll pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test now?
 
Is your spillover always running in POOL mode?

Post pics of your equipment pad and plumbing around your SWG cell.

Does you poll pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test now?
Thanks for reply. Spillover always runs over spa in pool mode. As for OCLT, I will test tonight and report in morning.
PICS show hardware setup, I only took the returns and heater link, if you need clarification let me know. pump -> filter -> heater in -> heater out -> salt cell ->returns
Pulled filter out after running sharkey all day, got a crisp ring of green around it, about quarter of way from top. Saw that last week when I cleaned filter as well, after seeing algae dusting on pool flat surfaces.

Thanks again
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3200.JPG
    IMG_3200.JPG
    387.8 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_3201.JPG
    IMG_3201.JPG
    358.4 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_3202.JPG
    IMG_3202.JPG
    392.3 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_3203.JPG
    IMG_3203.JPG
    444.6 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_3204.JPG
    IMG_3204.JPG
    296.7 KB · Views: 16
salt cell flows into spa first, then over flow into pool. Spa chlorine always just a tad higher or matches pool numbers when we test separately.

Your salt cell is before your pool/spa return valve. In POOL mode the water flows to your returns and also flows though the lower crossover pipe to the spa and spillover. Now if the water splits 50/50 then half the water goes to your spa and spillover and about 16% of the water flow goes to each of your three returns.

You have a valve on the crossover that is fully open so maximum flow goes to the spa. I would turn that valve to the right to close it so only 10%-20% of the water goes to the spa and spillover. Whatever the minimum flow is acceptable to you and get more water out your returns.

I think the far end of your pool may not getting sufficient chlorinated water flow from the returns.

That spillover always running causes your pH to rise and need more acid. If you close the crossover valve completely and use the SPILLOVER function on your automation to run the spillover for 15 minutes a few tines a day it will minimize the pH increase and increase the chlorinated water in your pool.
 
Thanks again for suggestions. Waited until morning to adjust valves and report back on OCLT.

First, couple notes.
When we sample pool water for testing, we sample deep end of pool, near skimmer.
Spa also has algae forming on the horizontal surfaces, and create a visible pattern of movement when sweeping.
Pool is on south side of house, gets full sun all day.

Onto the answers
Failed OCLT, Chlorine was 12 last night after dark, 10 this morning while still dark.
We don't have automation on spillover, our controller is either spa or pool mode, but I did manually close off the bypass between the pool returns and the spa returns. There seems to be no 'in-between' on the valve setting, spillover is either off, or on, even when just turning valve a couple notches from the closed position seems to spill over at 'normal rate'.

After turning spillover off, I can see much more water movement in the pool from the 3 returns. Our floating thermometer is moving around pool faster than before.
Spillover was a design requirement, as my wife likes to sit by pool and read, listening to the water fall.

Hope this info gives move clues on what's going on. Guess I need to start another SLAM?
 
Phil,

Once you do a SLAM, you should never have to do another one.. To me this means that either you did not fully complete your original SLAM, or you let your FC fall to low after the SLAM.

It sounds to me like you have a good handle on what you are doing, as you checked all the places algae can hide..

I suspect that maybe you were SLAMing at too low of an FC level and while you got most of the algae, you did not get it all. I really don't think this is a circulation issue or even related to your specific pool.

Our SLAM process is based on knowing your exact CYA level.. The problem of course, is that CYA testing is anything be extremely accurate.

I suggest that you run another SLAM at a higher CYA than you think you have..

I just noticed that you have a saltwater pool and a CYA of 80... Did you run your original SLAM with a CYA of 80?

If so, if this were my pool, I would drain and get my CYA down to 40 and then run the SLAM again as if my CYA were 50 or 60.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
That controller has a spillover function. Check the manual. I permanently closed my manual spa valve and program a spillover for 30 mins twice a day.
 
Phil,

Once you do a SLAM, you should never have to do another one.. To me this means that either you did not fully complete your original SLAM, or you let your FC fall to low after the SLAM.

It sounds to me like you have a good handle on what you are doing, as you checked all the places algae can hide..

I suspect that maybe you were SLAMing at too low of an FC level and while you got most of the algae, you did not get it all. I really don't think this is a circulation issue or even related to your specific pool.

Our SLAM process is based on knowing your exact CYA level.. The problem of course, is that CYA testing is anything be extremely accurate.

I suggest that you run another SLAM at a higher CYA than you think you have..

I just noticed that you have a saltwater pool and a CYA of 80... Did you run your original SLAM with a CYA of 80?

If so, if this were my pool, I would drain and get my CYA down to 40 and then run the SLAM again as if my CYA were 50 or 60.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Jim, thanks for the info

Looking back at pool math history, CYA was 80 at the time of the SLAM, kept Walmart busy selling chlorine keeping level at 31+.
I guess we messed up the poolmath spreadsheet, we had CYA target set at 80, and in looking back at times it got to 90.
But we've kept our chlorine up as well, never lower than 6.5 (June) and no below low double digits since SLAM.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Phil,

I was not trying to say you did anything wrong.

Just saying what I would do to get the pool back into shape.

Either you have algae, or you don't.. Once you have it, there is no choice but to re-do the SLAM.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Phil,

I was not trying to say you did anything wrong.

Just saying what I would do to get the pool back into shape.

Either you have algae, or you don't.. Once you have it, there is no choice but to re-do the SLAM.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Jim R, I completely understand, I was just checking the history readings in poolmath, thats all. I see at times we've been high on CYA (90). Being in SW Florida, we've had rainy season, so didn't think it was all that unusual to have to 'top-off' the CYA along the way. With evaporation, we have to add water every couple weeks as well, but our target was set at 80.

You are suggesting next SLAM to drain water to lower CYA to around 40, but use numbers in poolmath as if the CYA was actually higher than it really is?
Today, it shows SLAM level of 31, Mustard level at 44.

Should I be bumping up to mustard levels to make sure I completely kill everything?
 
Phil,

I believe that you only do the mustard level for the last 24 hours or so.. It can't hurt...

That said, I would still get the CYA down to 40, before starting another SLAM.. With the CYA of 40, I would use the SLAM level for 50 or 60.. just to make sure you kill it all.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Deal with the SLAM Process and fix the algae problem and then you can experiment with your pool/spa circulation and spillover and see what works best.

Your PoolMath log that is visible shows data from 2 years ago. Is that your old pool? Change it so we can follow along with this SLAM Process and provide advice.
 
AJW22, no clue how to change poolmath link, we are using standalone spreadsheet on my wifes computer. Yes, that info would be from first house.

You can create a new pool in PoolMath, start logging test results there, and set it to share.
 
Posting an update, finally was able to complete SLAM and OCLT after draining 33% of water, reducing CYA, putting up with Tropical storm ETA dumping rain for a week. Kept Walmart in business buying chlorinator, but all appears good now. Was using Mustard setting of 24 for chlorine, was surprised to find a yellowish haze in pool filter when pulled for cleaning. Among other steps, accurately measured pool, our pool builder undersized water by about 1000 gallons. With 2 bodies of water, spa and pool, started 'mixing' after draining to make sure both bodies were similar in water balance. Also, during all the rain my initial dosage of CYA disappeared, so for a week I had no CYA, thus couldn't finish the SLAM. Just things I learned along the way.

Thanks to all for the help.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jimbethesda
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.