Thanks James, it runs well below the rated amps. Runs .44 amps vs .68 rated. Does this sound right? *** Edit*** Didn't actually check voltage. Will do that tomorrow. Thanks so much for the suggestions!Check the voltage and amperage of the motor while operating and compare the results to the motor label.
Allen,Considering you said it It popped and sparked with a vengeance I would being closely examing the wires and connectors. It is a tedious job but checking continuity of each wire and connector. My thinking is maybe some wire has a loose pin or is hanging on by a few strands of copper.
Great tip! I'll check. Thanks!I would also check every molex connector. I've on more than one occasion found when you push the molex connector together, if they don't mate for some reason it will actually push one side back and only makes contact at the very tip of that wire in the molex connector. A slight movement will disconnect the minimal contact and leave you with an open wire. When you check for this you have to check each wire at both sides because externally all looks perfect.
Swamp,*** Edit - was missing the second photo... operator error***
Flame is sensed from ignitor through flame to burner and/or screen ground. If ignition module and ignitor are both new, the only variables that should effect flame sensing are how well the burner assembly/screen is grounded and whether the flame is hitting both the ignitor and the burner assembly/screen correctly to sense the flame. Check burner/screen ground. Check gas orifice. I don't know if the burner and the burner screen are one piece or separate, but it seems if the ignitor is outside of the burner/screen assembly that the flame is actually sensed between the ignitor and the burner screen because the gas/air mixture between the burner and the burner screen would not be lit. If possible check that the outside of the burner screen is clean bare metal and grounded well. Check the inside of the burner for dirt/blockage. If possible check the burner slots/orifices for blockage/cleanliness. I have worked on both residential and commercial units with drum/cylindrical combustion chambers and negative pressure gas valves and they seem to have some specific areas with problems. Most notably corrosion/dirt in the combustion chamber and also around fasteners for various parts attached to the combustion chamber.
Thanks Swamp. I measured between the black wire connection to the igniter and ground. Starts at zero goes to 122 vac when igniter starts to heat up then stays at 122 'till about 2 sec after the gas valve opens. Then drops to zero. Seems like it should stay at 122 'till the 7 secs are up. Repeats the cycle then on 3 rd attempt goes to lockout mode. Seems like a bad module but it's brand new.I would think that in order to use the ignitor to sense the flame that the ignition module would need to open the neutral to the ignitor while still providing 120v L1 hot to one side of the ignitor and then measure the flame sensing through a switched circuit. It is difficult to tell without the sequence of operation, circuit diagram and thresholds for the Fenwal. If you are measuring your voltage between IGN/120 and IGN/FS I would expect your voltage to drop to 0v during flame sensing and read micro amps at that point instead.
Thanks James, that explains why I get the weird readings. I'll see if anyone I know has a true RMS meter... I videoed the meter and never gets to 100 mv. But not a true RMS meter.To get a good measurement of the flame current at the test points, you need a good "true-rms" meter that can measure dc volts and dc microamps.
The dc is coming from an ac source, so it's going to pulse and not be a clean signal.
A regular meter uses an averaging method that is not accurate for unusual voltage situations.