CYA is the thorn in my side....

[ladylonghorn]

Two summers ago I took over maintaining the pool from my now ex-husband. He was very lazy in his maintenance, so right away I started testing the water weekly and started learning on here. Almost immediately I learned the CYA was too high and the pool was in chlorine lock - - so with help from the original pool builder, pumped about 1/3 of my 16,700 gallons out and refilled. Since then, CYA typically is in the 70-80 range per regular testing at my local Pinch a Penny.

I recently hired a reputable well known company to come in handle the pool (just too busy and with summer months approaching, needed to outsource). They say my CYA is 90. I get a 3rd reading from Leslies which is well over 100! I know from reading on here there is a lot of chance for inconsistency -- that said, I typically have the same person time and time again at PAP test and they even taught me and allowed me to try it and get a reading that is not matching the pool servicer or Leslies.

So a couple of questions - -

Leslie's and the pool service are telling me I don't have to drain but rather, weight down a hose, turn it on at the bottom of the pool and with the pool off, let it fill from the bottom and drain through the overflow for 12 - 24 hours. Anyone heard of this? Does this work?

Is there a recommended test kit to where I can just focus on regular CYA testing myself? If yes - - which one?

They are asking me to put in an automatic chlorinator (about $350). Currently using a floater. Today the guy said if I put in an automatic chlorinator, he wouldn't have to use as many chlorine pucks (which obviously contributes CYA as they dissolve). When I asked what that difference is - - he is doing 3 pucks in the floater vs 2 if I had an auto-chlorinator. Is this true or just BS?

Lastly, I had been using liquid shock vs granular for the last year. Knowing that granular shock also has some CYA, I'm wondering if I need to ask the pool company to use liquid shock as they are using granular. Just wondering since I want to do everything possible to get / keep the CYA down.

 

[Texas Splash]

You seem to be getting some poor advice. Let's try to help:
1 - You can do a water exchange simultaneously while filling. See below. It's just not as efficient.
2 - Test kits ... either the TF-100 (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C. The TF-100 is a better buy. It's a must-have; also look for the magnetic/smart-stir.
3 - Stay away from tab feeders. That's what is increasing your CYA - pucks & tabs (and powders). You must either add liquid chlorine (or regular bleach) each day, or invest in a salt water generator (SWG) which converts salt to free chlorine. Salt is the way to go when you're ready.
4 - Liquid chlorine is best as it has no residual side effects like the powder at the store. Avoid tabs and powder at all cost.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ladylonghorn]

Yes, I know pucks and tabs and powders all have CYA but not going to convert to salt water at this point. So in the meantime, is it true that using a chlorinator hooked up to the equipment means that less tabs are needed than if tabs are put in a floater?

With the Texas heat coming and the rainy spring, I'm wondering then...should I pull the floater out - - or close the vents down and instead daily add liquid bleach or liquid chlorine for a couple weeks? Is one better than the other?

 

[Texas Splash]

is it true that using a chlorinator hooked up to the equipment means that less tabs are needed than if tabs are put in a floater?

Only from the standpoint that water is pushing through the feeder which can erode the tabs faster. Before I went salt, my pool (full sun) had a CYA in the 60 - 70 range in the months of May - Sep. I used liquid chlorine or regular bleach to maintain the proper level per the FC/CYA Levels.