Could this be metal?

[Kgcrawford817]

I’ve been slamming for a solid 8 days. Levels are staying where they should with minimal additions of chlorine (1/2-1 gal 10% daily) and frequent testing. It’s holding pretty well overnight, no more than a 2ppm drop for days. It is swam in and/or brushed daily. I vacuum every couple of days (not super effective since vacuuming to waste isn’t an option).

There has literally been NO progress in 3-4 days. The water is clear, but green tinted. Im starting to think it’s a metal problem. We have well water. The water does stain the toilets and sinks.

Took these pics pics just now:




Could it be metal?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Yes. Try to find a "metal magnet" or another type of metal treat / sequesterant.

I saw a post where someone put some sort of sponge or something that absorbs iron. Try a search of the forum for "removing iron from the water" or something like that

 

[Kgcrawford817]

Thanks!

I’ll look into it. I’m hoping it works, but will admittedly be frustrated that I didn’t try it sooner!!

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Thanks!

I’ll look into it. I’m hoping it works, but will admittedly be frustrated that I didn’t try it sooner!!

Eh, live and learn, let go and enjoy your pool

 

[jwhop3]

If you have a stained area that doesn't clean with normal agents, try rubbing it with a Vitamin C tablet (not capsules). It that clears it, it's metals. Your stairs or around your skimmer would be a good place to check.

 

[Kgcrawford817]

So, now I’m at even more of a loss. I went to my local pool store and had the water tested for metals. The iron was 0. The copper was 0.2 ppm.

Is that really enough to show up in the color of the water at such a high pH?

These are the results from the pool store :


They only recommended bringing down the pH. I know that’s not valid with such a high FC.

 

[Richard320]

So, now I’m at even more of a loss. I went to my local pool store and had the water tested for metals. The iron was 0. The copper was 0.2 ppm.

Is that really enough to show up in the color of the water at such a high pH?

These are the results from the pool store :
View attachment 81284

They only recommended bringing down the pH. I know that’s not valid with such a high FC.

If the water is clear (but tinted), there's no slick spots or visible algae, your CC is down, you pass an OCLT, it has to be metals. You know you have Iron, due to staining in the toilets. Stop wasting time with pool store testing and get some sequestrant in there. I wouldn't trust a pool store Iron test any more than I;d trust a pool store CYA test.

 

[Kgcrawford817]

If the water is clear (but tinted), there's no slick spots or visible algae, your CC is down, you pass an OCLT, it has to be metals. You know you have Iron, due to staining in the toilets. Stop wasting time with pool store testing and get some sequestrant in there. I wouldn't trust a pool store Iron test any more than I;d trust a pool store CYA test.

That’s how I was leaning. Thanks!

 

[DeanP66]

Try Metal Magic sequesterant. I've had good success with it.

 

[Arizonarob]

Anything over 10ppm on your FC, will lead to an inaccurate PH reading. Assuming that your FC is over 11, that PH number is worthless.
Once your FC is below 10, then you test PH properly.

 

[Kgcrawford817]

We were gone all day yesterday. When we came home the pool was actually a little clearer (see pic). The FC was down to 4.5. My pH was above 8. I added the sequestrant (the whole bottle), but no chlorine.


The FC held overnight, down to 4.0 this AM. pH still high, so I just put in some acid. There was no improvement overnight after the sequestrant was added. The water still looks like this pic.

Do I stay the course with just working on the pH? Since my chlorine held and my CC is .5, I don’t need to SLAM, right? I was planning on maintaining an FC of 4.

Obviously patience is not my strong suit. I just want clear, blue water!

 

[Mendy48]

If you're pool is clear, which it looks like it is, you can perform the OCLT to see if you pass all the criteria for POST slam. Here’s the link: Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
If you don't, then you'll need to Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain your pool. Your pH is high, I recommend you continue bringing that down.

 

[Kgcrawford817]

If you're pool is clear, which it looks like it is, you can perform the OCLT to see if you pass all the criteria for POST slam. Here’s the link: Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
If you don't, then you'll need to Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain your pool. Your pH is high, I recommend you continue bringing that down.

I did the OCLT last night and it passed.

Just frustrated because, while it’s clear, it’s still green.

 

[Mendy48]

Yeah! I've been there. Totally understand your frustration. So if it's still green then you need to continue to SLAM your pool. Maintain your FC shock level and continue brushing. Let your pump run 24hours. You're on the right track.

I did the OCLT last night and it passed.

Just frustrated because, while it’s clear, it’s still green.

 

[Kgcrawford817]

This is what it looks like after dropping the pH, which is now 7.2.



So it’s transitioning to blue. The FC has been below SLAM for almost 24hrs. If I start SLAM again, doesn’t it negate the sequestrant I put in yesterday? The filter and the water in the pump are as clear as they’ve ever been and the filter is no longer turning brown within hours.

Unfortunately, I need to add water to the pool. It will be well water. I’m going to try and rig up a polyfill filter for the water hose to introduce as little iron as possible.

 

[DeanP66]

Try to keep the pH where you have it at 7.2. That's one of the keys to keeping metal in solution. When pH climbs metal precipitates out and ends up either on your pool walls (stains) or it turns the water green like yours did. A low pH plus the sequesterant is the best way to go. Also, be vigilant about keeping your FC level where it should be based on your CYA so you don't have to SLAM again if possible. The high chlorine can bring the metals out of solution as well.

 

[zea3]

High pH will cause the metals to come out of solution. Try and keep the pH between 7.0 and 7.2 and be sure to add sequestrant if the tint doesn't clear.