Converting to VS Pump - finally!!!!

HermanTX

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No.. I've got some appointments this morning.. Be back later...

Jim R.
Jim - This is how the relay is set up.
Top Left - Filter Pump - it has main power to L1 and L2. On Load 1 is VSP & Heater, On Load 2 is VSP and Heater - both are grounded
Bottom Left - Booster Pump - it has main power to L1 and L2. On Load 1 is booster pump, On Load 2 is booster pump - then grounded
Top Middle - Blower - it has main power jumper leads from Booster Pump to L1 and L2, On Load 1 is Blower. On Load 2 is Blower - then grounded
Bottom Middle - Water Feature Pump - it has main power to L1 and L2. On Load 1 is WF pump, On Load 2 is WF pump - then grounded
Top Right and Bottom Right are for Spa and Pool Light (see diagram)
Attached is my hand sketch. So I should leave the Heater on the Load Side of the top left relay?
Relay Layout.JPEG
 

HermanTX

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Just a brief update and I will follow up more details later. Whew - it is humid down here. Must be 95% humidity but temp is only 90degrees.
I moved the VSP wires to the Line side on the Filter pump relay. I left the heater wires on the Load side as they were originally.
As the whole panel was off at the main breaker, I then switched it back on and the VSP turned on and the Jandy automation rebooted. I then put in Service mode - the VSP display stayed lit but it stated Display Locked out as it should do with connection to automation. I then hit the Pump button (panel) to on (red light) and VSP turned on, then hit Pump button again to turn off.
Put back all in Auto mode on automation
On my PDA I turned on Spa Mode and VSP stopped, the valves rotated then VSP started in the SPA circuit I had set. I then hit SPA HEAT and the VSP revved up to that circuit setting and the heater clicked on. I reversed those steps and back to normal pool mode.
I did several more testing of different scenarios and appears all is working fine.
I did discover I need to set the Filter Pump program (not the VSP pump program) to run 24 hrs - if not then if power goes out and the VSP will come on OK but the automation senses that the Filter Pump is off because there is no schedule to turn it back on, so it does not register any flowing water temperature. A minor issue.
Thanks for all your help @Jimrahbe and @MSchutzer
 

Jimrahbe

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Herman,

Glad you got it working... :thumleft:

I got confused at the end, as I thought you had an EasyTouch. I am easily confused.. :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

HermanTX

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Herman,

Glad you got it working... :thumleft:

I got confused at the end, as I thought you had an EasyTouch. I am easily confused.. :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
Based on your previous comments and info you have put in other threads, the ET works very similar to my AquaLink (at least my version which is about 9 yrs old) with the new Pentair VS Pump. AL does not call it "circuits" but it is very similar in that I had to set speeds to each speed label. Then I had to schedule each speed label. Furthermore, it allows the VSP to run at the higher of the 2 speeds if 2 schedules overlap. So I took your advice and have my "Pool" on 24hrs at 1700rpm and all other "circuits" are at higher speeds so when they hit the time slot then the VSP moves up to that speed level then back down when it is completed. That happens when the cleaner is on or I have it for a higher skimming speed.

That brings up another question - if you don't mind answering one more on this subject. I plan to upgrade my automation - probably next year. Would it be better to just go to an ET system with Screen Logic rather than all the way to an IntelliCenter? My needs are fairly basic as I have VSP, a single speed water feature pump, a booster pump, no fancy lights (1 spa and 1 pool) which I rarely turn on, and 1 heater. My AL system seems to function it all. My only reason for upgrade would be to get away from the handheld PDA and have wireless/cloud to both phone and computer. I do not have need to hook up any garden lights or sprinkler system and my breaker box is in garage so no need to put breakers in the automation center box.
My thought is that ET with SL is less expensive then a full IntelliCenter - however I do also plan to convert to SWCG in the future as well so that may have some bearing on automation selection. I would lean to the IC40 for my <15k gal pool.
Would appreciate your views.
Thanks.
 

Jimrahbe

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Herman,

I have three pools with three EasyTouch, IC40, IntelliFlo systems.. I love them.. It was one of the best investments that I have ever made. They do everything I want, and it is just not worth the effort, or money, to upgrade to the new IntelliCenter..

That said, if I were to build a new pool today, it would have an IntelliCenter. The cost of an EasyTouch plus ScreenLogic is almost the same as the cost of the new IntelliCenter.

The EasyTouch (ET) has a max of 12 programs.. The IntelliCenter (IC) has a max of 100 programs.
The ET has small black and white alphanumeric display. The IC has a color touch screen like your phone.
The ET is a what you buy is want you get system. The IC is expandable.
The ET's firmware is not user updateable. The IC's F/W can be updated just like your PC or phone.
The ET does not have circuit groups, so you can make two or more things happen with one button. The IC does have circuit groups to combine functions.

The EasyTouch plus ScreenLogic will do what you want, but do you really want old tech??

In your case I would compare pricing and buy what makes the most sense.

If you are going with a SWCG, then no matter which one you buy get the one that has the internal SWCG Power Center and come with a cell..

Here is a couple of links to compare.


plus... Pentair ScreenLogic2 Connection and Wireless Kit

or..



Edit... You do NOT want the cheap PL4 or PSL4 that comes with ScreenLogic.. The "L" stands for lite as it the kind of salad dress that no one likes.. It only has 4 programs and if I were a pool builder I would be ashamed to install one...!!

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

MSchutzer

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Jan 15, 2021
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Herman,

Glad to hear you have it all working. One question, I’m curious why you are switching the AC power on and off to the heater via the load 1 / 2 terminals of the Filter pump relay. Usually the heater is always powered and the heat on /off control is via the fireman’s switch.

There’s another upgrade option if you like the Jandy system and you don’t want to rewire all the stuff in the box. Jandy makes a upgrade kit called IQ20-RS. This includes the latest RS-8 main board and an iAqualink wireless transceiver. With this setup you just use your phone, tablet, or computer to control the system, no more custom interface boxes. This upgrade package is in the range of $800 to $1000 dollars and is simple to install. Technically you can’t buy it online, but you can often call the supplier on the phone and they are eager to sell to you. There is the issue as to whether Jandy will warranty it, but you can save a lot by doing the install yourself.

I’m not necessarily recommending this is the way to go, but just throwing it out there as another option.
 
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HermanTX

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One question, I’m curious why you are switching the AC power on and off to the heater via the load 1 / 2 terminals of the Filter pump relay. Usually the heater is always powered and the heat on /off control is via the fireman’s switch.
If you see my diagram in post #21, the heater was originally wired to the Load 1/2 on the Filter Pump relay. I do not know why because heater was already part of the system when I purchased the home and I have never really got involved how it is all wired until the recent years (i.e. retirement). I would not know how to set it up with a fireman's switch. I did have a new heater installed about a year ago and the service tech said the heater hook up was fine but I really did not know enough to ask the right question.

Thanks for your info on the iAquaLink. I have thought about that, but if I go with a Pentair SWCG within the next 12-18 months then all my equipment is Pentair so seems I would go with Pentair automation. I am not making that decision now but will continue to monitor new threads on these subjects.
 

HermanTX

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The EasyTouch plus ScreenLogic will do what you want, but do you really want old tech??

In your case I would compare pricing and buy what makes the most sense.
I am somewhat pragmatic on things like this. While I normally try to stay up with the technology curve, I do keep cost in my thoughts to ensure the best bang for the buck, i.e. I do not buy the newest iPhone every time a new one comes out. My iMac is 11 years old so that is definitely on the list to upgrade - so it just depends on many things.
You make some great points so I will search some vendors locally for some prices and see what I get. Many thanks.
 
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