Converting after following terrible advice

scott407

Active member
Mar 21, 2018
34
Smyrna, TN
#1
Last year we in stalled a 40x20 in-ground pool with a vinyl liner and used biguanide. It was recommended by a "pool guy" with the caveat, "If you ever want to change, just start using chlorine." So at the end of the season last year we closed our pool. Chlorine was added prior to closing and the green cloud came and went.

Fast forward to this season prior to finding this thread. My water tests 7.2 PH, 140 TA, 5 FC, and 50 CYA. I stopped before adjusting the CH.

1. What are the pitfall's of getting this refill kit over just investing in a TF-100 Test kit?

2. Is sand replacement the only solution given it is brand new sand?

Thanks in advance.
 

Attachments

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
#2
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: Congrats on converting your pool to chlorine. That Baquacil converting page is a life saver. The FAS-DPD refill you linked is nice, but the TF-100 is the entire test kit (FAS-DPD, pH, TA, CYA, CH, etc). Stocked full for the season. The TF-100 is quite a good value. Don't forget the magnetic speedstir. :stirpot:

As for the sand question, if you're referring to replacing the sand as part of the conversion, it is required. If you are asking about some other type of filler other than sand (i.e. zeolite), we always fallback to sand. It's really quite efficient and should last as long as your pool as long as no unusual products (i.e. Baqua, floc, etc) are added which may compromise it. Hope that helps.
 

Donldson

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
In The Industry
Jun 12, 2009
3,268
NW Ohio
#3
Welcome to TFP!

Sorry to hear about the pretty bad advice. Unfortunately you are quite correct, Baquacil and chlorine do not mix and you definitely can't just pour chlorine in and call it a chlorine pool. What a pool guy...

1: That is fine if you already have a reasonable kit aside of the missing FAS-DPD. Though I will say that non-Taylor pH kits are often inaccurate over 5 FC, so keep an eye on that if you do not have a Taylor one.

2: Sometimes you can get by with a really good deep clean of your filter, but really sand is not so costly as to make that worthwhile. This will be the last time you should ever need to change your sand so I say bite the bullet and call it a lesson learned.

Best of luck with the water and glad to have you here! Just as a warning, those pictures do not show clear water so your conversion might not be entirely finished...
 

scott407

Active member
Mar 21, 2018
34
Smyrna, TN
#4
I have a TF-100 ordered and plan to start ASAP.

Just to clarify, the pump and filter runs the whole time during the process or just the pump on recirculate?

Also, is brushing and vacuuming with a auto vacuum ok or do I need to pull the robo vac out during the elevated chlorine periods and manually vacuum?

I have a FC level of 5 ppm as of now. The green water spooks me but all I've read says its normal for a pool being converted to have a green tint. Should I be worried about algae during this process?

Thanks in advance.
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
#5
Just to clarify, the pump and filter runs the whole time during the process or just the pump on recirculate?
The whole thing. You want to break-up the baqua goo in all the plumbing and filtration as much as possible.
Also, is brushing and vacuuming with a auto vacuum ok or do I need to pull the robo vac out during the elevated chlorine periods and manually vacuum?
Good question. I don't have a concern with the elevated chlorine during the conversion, but not quite sure if the goo would have any impact. If it were me, I'd probably stick to manual brushing/vacuuming during the conversion. Maybe someone else will have another thought.
I have a FC level of 5 ppm as of now. The green water spooks me but all I've read says its normal for a pool being converted to have a green tint. Should I be worried about algae during this process?
During a baquacil conversion, the water will react dramatically at first when the chlorine is increased. But follow that baquacil conversion page to the letter and it will work. It's very important to maintain that conversion FC level of 15 and not try to rush any steps to include changing the sand until prompted to do so. Stick to that conversion page and you'll do fine. Pool School - Convert Your Baqua Pool to Chlorine

- - - Updated - - -

Are you in Smyrna, GA? If so, are you on a well? Curious as wells often times have iron in them which later you'll find increase the potential for green water and staining. ELet us know and we'll help you with that as well.
 

domct203

Bronze Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 3, 2015
3,959
CT
#6
Last year we in stalled a 40x20 in-ground pool with a vinyl liner and used biguanide. It was recommended by a "pool guy" with the caveat, "If you ever want to change, just start using chlorine." So at the end of the season last year we closed our pool. Chlorine was added prior to closing and the green cloud came and went.

Fast forward to this season prior to finding this thread. My water tests 7.2 PH, 140 TA, 5 FC, and 50 CYA. I stopped before adjusting the CH.

1. What are the pitfall's of getting this refill kit over just investing in a TF-100 Test kit?

2. Is sand replacement the only solution given it is brand new sand?

Thanks in advance.
I'm far from a Baqua conversion expert, but I think that the 50ppm of CYA is going to make your conversion difficult.

Can the pool pass an ?

Dom
 

scott407

Active member
Mar 21, 2018
34
Smyrna, TN
#7
We will soon find out. Hoping to get an accurate FC and CYA level once my test kit arrives and I can start the process. So far I haven't raised the FC above 5ppm (or at least I haven't been able to accurately test above that level).
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
#8
I'm far from a Baqua conversion expert, but I think that the 50ppm of CYA is going to make your conversion difficult.
Oh my goodness how did I miss that? :hammer: Yes, that's HUGE. Good catch Dom! :goodjob: Problem is that the baqua conversion FC level of 15 is designed to breakdown the baqua while still being safe for the pool. When CYA is added, it complicates the formula and requires a higher concentration of FC to compensate. In many cases, we have found it more efficient to simply drain a large portion of the water to remove the stabilizer.

Scott, while you posted a CYA of 50 in post #1, you last mentioned testing again once your test it arrives. How did you get the CYA of 50 before? In any case, we'll need to know what your accurate CYA level is and help you with a better path forward. I'm going to ask for another set of eyes (or two) on this one as the stabilizer factor really can complicate the conversion process to the point that a major water exchange is often the better route. More to follow.
 

scott407

Active member
Mar 21, 2018
34
Smyrna, TN
#9
Oh my goodness how did I miss that? :hammer: Yes, that's HUGE. Good catch Dom! :goodjob: Problem is that the baqua conversion FC level of 15 is designed to breakdown the baqua while still being safe for the pool. When CYA is added, it complicates the formula and requires a higher concentration of FC to compensate. In many cases, we have found it more efficient to simply drain a large portion of the water to remove the stabilizer.

Scott, while you posted a CYA of 50 in post #1, you last mentioned testing again once your test it arrives. How did you get the CYA of 50 before? In any case, we'll need to know what your accurate CYA level is and help you with a better path forward. I'm going to ask for another set of eyes (or two) on this one as the stabilizer factor really can complicate the conversion process to the point that a major water exchange is often the better route. More to follow.
I used a 6 way HTH kit so and was not clear on how to read it so I'm not sure it's reliable. A second test done the same way was closer to 30 in bright sunlight, the dot totally not visible.

I am not opposed to a water swap but want to have all my ducks in a row before I do anything.
 

Leebo

Admin
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 21, 2011
7,878
Eastern Ohio
#10
Let’s hold off and walk backwards for a second. For starters, WELCOME TO TFP!

If you will, can you answer a few questions for us.

1. What have you added to the water to increase your FC to 5ppm? If it was granular Chlorine, can you tell us what type by writing the main ingredient.

2. When is your TF-100 to arrive?

Let’s start there and then we’ll move on and see where things go.
 

scott407

Active member
Mar 21, 2018
34
Smyrna, TN
#11
Let’s hold off and walk backwards for a second. For starters, WELCOME TO TFP!

If you will, can you answer a few questions for us.

1. What have you added to the water to increase your FC to 5ppm? If it was granular Chlorine, can you tell us what type by writing the main ingredient.

2. When is your TF-100 to arrive?

Let’s start there and then we’ll move on and see where things go.
Thanks.

Initially, I used 10% liquid bleach (2018) from Walmart. Currently, I am using 3 in. trichlor tablets in the chlorinator. While beginning this process I had no idea what CYA was our does, I just knew from reading that it was needed at 30-50ppm and once added, it stated around and could only be adjusted by dilution. I added about half the dose pool math called for and that's where I am today. It wasn't until after I added the stabilizer that I realized the trichlor tablets also contained stabilizer and would likely drive the CYA number up. The test kit come Thursday.
 

Leebo

Admin
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 21, 2011
7,878
Eastern Ohio
#14
First things first, don't use any more. Any that are in the chlorinator, get them out of there. Toss them into the trash and feel glad you haven't used more. Next off, I'd wait until your TF-100 arrives to do anything. First thing I'd do is test your CYA and post back. Let me explain why I'd suggest this path and you can make your own call.

When a user has been using Baquacil your CYA level is zero. Seeing you've only added a few pucks I suspect your CYA level is very low, which is a good thing. If your CYA level is noticeable at all really it maybe in your best interest to just do a drain/refill. TFP has seen a few instances in the past where a user attempted to convert with CYA in their pool and it seems they spent more money (plus effort) on bleach than they did just doing a partial drain/refill. If however your CYA level is zero (or very low at least) then you will likely save some cash doing the conversion as it'll likely cost you more in water than in bleach. Granted this second statement all depends on your water rates.

Regardless of which approach you take there are a few things that are going to remain. First is no matter what, don't drain all of your pool! Make sure you leave at least a foot of water in the shallow end to prevent the liner from shrinking and wrinkles occurring. Get everything in order before draining and don't let the pool sit empty for long. Second is regardless what you do you will still need to follow the steps listed in the Baquacil Conversion article. Even after a drain/refill you will still have some Baqua in the water than needs to be broken down and removed. Lastly is the need to change the sand. Regardless of which path you pick I'd suggest a full change of sand. Once Baqua and Chlorine mix they create a VERY sticky substance that we commonly refer to as "Baqua-Goo." Here is what my DE Filter looked like once I did the conversion several years ago,


If you don't change the sand you will likely see an increased FC demand and likely reduced filtering ability due to clumping of the sand. Just get rid of everything and feel glad you'll never have to mess with Baqua again in the future.
 

pookiesunshine

Gold Supporter
May 12, 2016
504
Cincinnati, OH
#15
Scott, something doesnt make sense, so i agree that best to wait until you get your test kit for accurate test results before doing anything else.

A couple questions. Do you have a dark, lagoon liner? That would explain why it looks dark but clear enough to see drains and vacuum.

When you closed last season, how much chlorine did you add? you said the green cloud came and went. If you added just a few gallons of chlorine, that would likely be consumed and still have residual baquacil in the water. But i dont see how you can have FC 5 now without having added a ton of chlorine to convert the baquacil, unless you got lucky and over the winter it degraded. Maybe a little more info on what you have done so far. normally a conversion generates a ton of goo, not just a cloud that came and went. maybe i am misunderstanding. wouldnt be the first time.
 

scott407

Active member
Mar 21, 2018
34
Smyrna, TN
#16
Scott, something doesnt make sense, so i agree that best to wait until you get your test kit for accurate test results before doing anything else.

A couple questions. Do you have a dark, lagoon liner? That would explain why it looks dark but clear enough to see drains and vacuum.

When you closed last season, how much chlorine did you add? you said the green cloud came and went. If you added just a few gallons of chlorine, that would likely be consumed and still have residual baquacil in the water. But i dont see how you can have FC 5 now without having added a ton of chlorine to convert the baquacil, unless you got lucky and over the winter it degraded. Maybe a little more info on what you have done so far. normally a conversion generates a ton of goo, not just a cloud that came and went. maybe i am misunderstanding. wouldnt be the first time.
So last winter I used to gallons of bleach and 4 - 1lb bags of chlorinated shock before I winterized and put the cover on. I was told that the chlorine would likely stay around because the cover blocked the sunlight and the pool was clean prior to closing.

The FC 5 came from the liquid bleach and trichlor tablets I added when I first pulled the cover, prior to discovering this source of information.

The update is my test kit should be here today or tomorrow and I have drained a significant volume of water and replaced it with fresh to start the conversion. As soon as I get a test done, I plan to post them.

Thanks for your interest. I'm going to need the help.
 

scott407

Active member
Mar 21, 2018
34
Smyrna, TN
#17
So last winter I used to gallons of bleach and 4 - 1lb bags of chlorinated shock before I winterized and put the cover on. I was told that the chlorine would likely stay around because the cover blocked the sunlight and the pool was clean prior to closing.

The FC 5 came from the liquid bleach and trichlor tablets I added when I first pulled the cover, prior to discovering this source of information.

The update is my test kit should be here today or tomorrow and I have drained a significant volume of water and replaced it with fresh to start the conversion. As soon as I get a test done, I plan to post them.

Thanks for your interest. I'm going to need the help.
The liner is dark blue. BTW
 

domct203

Bronze Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 3, 2015
3,959
CT
#18
So last winter I used to gallons of bleach and 4 - 1lb bags of chlorinated shock before I winterized and put the cover on. I was told that the chlorine would likely stay around because the cover blocked the sunlight and the pool was clean prior to closing.
Unfortunately that was more bad advise. The chlorine you added will be rapidly consumed from oxidizing the Baqa. If the bags of shock where Trichlor or dichlor that added CYA, making the chlorine you added even less effective at destroying the Baqa.

Well luckily that is all in the past. You’re in good hands now.
 

scott407

Active member
Mar 21, 2018
34
Smyrna, TN
#19
Unfortunately that was more bad advise. The chlorine you added will be rapidly consumed from oxidizing the Baqa. If the bags of shock where Trichlor or dichlor that added CYA, making the chlorine you added even less effective at destroying the Baqa.

Well luckily that is all in the past. You’re in good hands now.
Incidentally, the product I used was Aquasilk. I'm pretty sure it identical to Baquacil but I've been wrong more than once in this process